Stafford Pine Dining set: Bench - Page | 5SHanty-2-Chic.com
78"
6"
6"
1 ¼"
1 ¼"
8" 8"
5
4.
Center the third stretcher as shown, making sure the top and bottom
surfaces are as ush as possible as this will be the bottom of your
bench and you don't want it to rock. Attach with wood glue and
2-½" pocket screws.
The safest way to cut the small yellow feet is to cut the bevel
(same as Step 2 but only into one end) and then cut it to length.
Repeat for second foot. Clamp in place, centered, as shown and
attach with wood glue and 2-½" brad nails.
5.
Now we will plank the remaining boards to form the seat of your
bench. Cut your long blue boards to length and drill 1-½" pocket
holes as shown. For even pressure distribution from the pocket
screws we like to stagger the pocket holes so that the screws 'pull'
the boards together evenly. Attach with wood glue and 2-½"
pocket screws. Make sure the boards are as ush as possible.
Measure the width of your planked boards, it should be about
15". Cut your purple breadboards (those that run perpendicular
to the long boards and cap the ends of your bench seat) to that
length. Drill 1-½" pocket holes and attach with wood glue and
2-½" pocket screws. Make sure boards are as ush as possible.
6.
Now all we have to do is attach the leg assembly to the bench seat.
Lay the top on a clean surface with the pocket holes facing up.
Lay the leg assembly on top, centered as shown in the illustration
above. Make sure the leg assembly is set in place with the double
stretchers connecting to the seat and the single stretcher is facing
up. Clamp in place so nothing shifts and attach with 2-½" SPAX
screws. We don't use wood glue here because you want to allow
for the wood to expand and contract so use plenty of screws but
be careful that you don't drive them too far and they come out the
other side of the bench seat. Also, make sure you don't drive them
into a pocket screw or a seam between the long blue boards.
4
6
1 ½"
1 ½"
3"
3"
3"
3"
15"
Small feet are 3 ¾"
long. Cut bevel into
one end only.
