Definitive Technology ProSub 60 Manuale utente

ProSub 60, ProSub 80, ProSub 100tl,

ProSub 200tl, & PF15tl+.

The following will detail the amplifier removal process for Definitive

Technology subwoofer models ProSub 60, ProSub 80, ProSub 100tl, ProSub

200tl, PF15tl+ & PF1500tl+.

The subwoofer should be unplugged from any receiver or power amp that it may be plugged

into. Disconnect the speaker from AC power at least 60 minutes prior to starting. Gather the tools

you will need in a clean well-lighted place:

•a Phillips head screwdriver

•a flat head screwdriver (optional)

•3 small plastic cups, with labels

•a (small or tack) hammer (only models w. wrap around grill socks)

•a needle nosed pliers (recommended)

•a digital camera (or pen and paper)

•Masking tape (optional)

•Elmer’s Glue Stick (optional, some models only)

Remove the Low-Level Amplifier

1. Remove the front-loaded grill. The plastic or wooden frame is held in place by four

tensioning “treelocks”. Remove it by carefully inserting your fingernail between the

cabinet and the grill frame; if possible, we want to avoid causing the grill fabric to fray

along the edges.

2. Lay the speaker down gently on its belly, so that the amplifier to be removed (entire back

panel) is facing toward the ceiling.

a. This puts the full weight of the speaker on the treelocks.

b. Should one or more treelocks have broken off during the speaker’s life, new

treelocks and replacement instructions are available directly from Definitive

Technology Customer Service.

3. Remove the screws that are along the outer edge of the back panel.

CAUTION: Only remove the screws along the outer edge of the back panel.

As you get the screws out drop them into a plastic cup labeled “low level”.

a. It is very important that you retain all the original screws.

4. You may use the power cord as leverage to remove the amplifier. It can stick and this

process needs to be done with care.

a. Stand over the speaker with one foot on each side.

b. Grasp the power cord securely with your dominant hand.

c. Place your off hand on the speaker, such that only the corner of the back plate is

beneath your palm. It should be the corner closest to the power cord.

i. With the corner of the back plate beneath your palm you do not have to

worry about pulling the entire amp out while still connected.

d. Pull up on the cord while pressing down on the speaker with your offhand.

i. Do not yank the cord like you are trying to start a lawnmower, instead

apply steady but increasing pressure.

ii. Pull up with as purely vertical a motion as possible.

iii. If needed wrap the power cable around your wrist for added leverage

e. Once the incidental seal between the back panel and the cabinet is broken you can

ease off the tension.

f. Once free from the cabinet, gently lift out the amp using as purely lateral motion

as space will allow. Use caution: although we have freed the amp from the

gasket, it is still connected via harnesses to internal components.

5. Disconnect the two wire harnesses that connect the back panel low-level amp to the

internally mounted high-level amp.

Remove the Front Facing Woofer

1. Gently lift and turn the unit 180 degrees so it is resting with the woofer facing toward

the ceiling.

2. Remove the black cardboard trim ring.

a. The trim ring covers the woofer’s screws.

b. Some models may not have a trim ring.

c. Trim rings are not available as a replacement part.

d. They serve no acoustic purpose.

To remove, carefully peel away. To re-adhere later once the repair has been finalized,

simply use an Elmer’s Glue Stick.

3. Remove the screws that immediately surround the 8 / 10 / 12 / 15 inch woofer-cone.

a. Larger models may have more than four screws.

b. Reserve the screws in a 2nd container labeled “woofer”

4. Remove the woofer.

a. Support the bottom of the woofer as you return the cabinet to a normal

position.

b. Ease the woofer out of the cabinet.

c. Be sure to continue to support the woofer as it is still connected to the internal

high-level amp.

5. Remove the two wires, red and white, from the jumper clips on the underside of the

woofer’s basket.

a. These can stick a bit. Use both needle nosed pliers and caution.

b. Remove the wires using as purely lateral a motion as possible, in relation to

the angle with which they are connected.

Be careful not to strip those jumpers, as this will ruin the woofer.

6. Set the woofer to the side, and be sure to test it using the instructions provided by

your customer service agent.

Remove High-Level Amp

1. The high-level amplifier is located inside the cabinet, mounted to four aluminum fins. Its

aluminum fins are mounted to an internal cross brace, facing toward the front of the

subwoofer.

2. Remove the Phillips screws that secure the metal fins to the cabinet superstructure.

a. Reserve them in the 3rd container, labeled high-level.

b. Leave the PCB mounted to the metal fins.

3. Remove the high-level amp from the cabinet.

a. On the smaller models you must rotate the high-level amp inside of the cabinet, as

it is too wide to fit through an 8” woofer opening,

Use CAUTION not to touch any of the components or the PCB itself, as they may hold

some residual charge.

b. Instead try to handle the assembly by the metal fins only.

c. Stay away from the capacitors –their leftover potential residual charge is not a

mortal danger but it’s also not a comfort in these trying times…so, please, handle

with care…they can zap you from the top of from the bottom.

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