Depron Nanoshark Manuale utente

Please review this entire manual before beginning assembly.

By doing so it will help you better understand each step as you progress in the

actual building of your kit, and you will do a better job in assembly.

INCLUDED IN THIS KIT:

• All laser cut Depron parts

• Balsa ailerons and 2 pieces of balsa elevator

• Plywood motor mount

• 3 Pushrods + 1 Pushrod tube

• 3 Dubro Micro control horns

• 2 Dubro Ez-connectors

• 1 Carbon ber tube and 3 at spars

SPECIFICATION:

• Wing Span: 30 inch

• Length: 19.5 inch

• Dry weight: 8.5 oz

• Ready to Fly Weight: 12~13 oz with 3S 11.1v 1550mAh

NEEDED BUILDING TOOLS:

• Foam Safe / Odorless CA glue + Foam Safe Accelerator

(User Friendly Odorless “UFO” highly recommended)

• Blenderm Hinge Tape or Transparent Scotch Tape

• Sandpaper and Sanding Bar

• Hobby Knife, Pliers, and Z-bending tool

• Ruler (preferably metal)

• Wax Paper and Hot Glue

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT:

• 4 Channel Transmitter + Receiver

(AR6000, AR6100E, AR6110E, AR6200, AR500, AR7000, or similar)

• 3 Micro Servos (5~8 gram)

(HXT500, SG-50 or Hitec HS-55 or similar)

• Small & Light High KV Outrunner (2208, 2826, etc.)

(Grayson Hobby Micro Jet V3 2200kv motor)

• ESC: 20Amp up to 40Amp, depending on motor used

• APC Prop: 5x5 or 6x4

• Prop Adapter: 3.17mm (GH V3 includes prop adapter)

• Lipo Battery: Nano-Power 1100mAh 3s 11.1v 35C(use smaller battery for lighter set up)

or Nano-Power 1400mAh 3S 11.1v 35C or Nano-power 1600mAh 3S 11.1v 45C

or Nano-Power 1900mAh 3S 11.1v 45C

• Maximum Battery size: 104x34x24mm

• Maximum Battery weight: 162 grams

The un-cut Depron

parts of the kit as you

will receive them.

Simply cut them out

with a sharp knife at

the tabs.

TIP: build most of the

plane over wax paper

to prevent accidental

gluing to the table.

The wood parts and

hardware.

Update: New kits will

include two balsa

elevator halves

instead of one foam

+ one balsa elevator

halves.

Start with the fuselage

sides and the doublers.

Glue the doublers over

the top half of each

fuselage side. Make

sure the tabs are not

covered and the slots

on the top line up.

If you have difculty

then you can use

scraps to line up the

bottom. Be careful not

to glue them in. (You

can also test t the

motor mount to assist

in lining up the front

properly.)

Make sure these slots

line up well so that

the carbon ber tube

and at spars can be

inserted perpendicular

to the fuselage sides

and not be askew.

Make sure you made a

left and right fuselage

side with the doubler

facing the inside. Then

glue the fuselage cen-

ter piece into the slots.

Use enough glue!

Since the fuselage is

curved you will need

to spray accelerator on

the front and rear sec-

tions separately while

pressing for proper t.

Attach the motor to the

mount now. Doing it

later will be more

difcult.

Glue in the motor

mount to the fuselage

side.

Glue on the remaining

half. Pay attention that

the slot are pressed

into the tabs equally

on the left and right

sides by repeating the

process as before.

Pressing down while

spraying accelerator.

Make sure you apply

plenty of glue on the

motor mount areas for

extra strength. Use

thick foam safe here to

create a glue llet on all

sides.

Here are all the

fuselage top and bot-

tom pieces that will

be doubled up. The

doublers are slightly

smaller (thinner) than

the part being doubled.

Glue them together

centered. See next

steps

Pay special attention to

this part here. Only this

part will need an offset

of 1/16”

Line up the inside dou-

bler 1/16” off from the

back edge.

Here you can see that

the inside doubler is

evenly spaced on each

left and right side. This

is how all the parts

should be assembled.

Remember only this

piece will have an addi-

tional offset mentioned

previously

All the parts doubled up

Take the rear top piece

shown here. Measure

7” inches from the rear.

Cut this part in half at

the 7” inch from the

rear mark.

Test t one of the

carbon ber at spars

in the rear-most slot on

the fuselage top. Do

NOT GLUE it in, this is

just to line up the other

foam part in the next

step.

Take the front of the

fuselage top piece that

you just cut. Test t

(DO NOT GLUE) it so

that the inside doubler

portion will be right up

to the at spar.

Now that we have that

peice properly lined up

we can now glue in the

very end tail piece of

the fuselage top.

Remember ONLY glue

this rear part in at this

point.

Glue it in position as

shown.

Now you need to re-

move the at spar and

the top piece that we

used as a tool to line

up the rear section.

Put this aside for a

while as we move on to

the elevator assembly.

Find all these parts

for the horizontal

stabilizer+elevator

assembly.

Update: New kits will

include two balsa

elevator halves.

Insert and glue the

carbon at spar into the

horizontal stabilizer and

glue together the balsa

and foam elevator.

Click here to see

RCGroups for a tip

on how to sand the

elevators.

Use a metal ruler and

trim a bevelled edge

on BOTH the horizon-

tal stabilizer and the

elevator.

About 30 degrees is

enough. The balsa

side of the elevator is

the top.

You should now have

a nice upside-down V

groove for a pivot point.

Don’t tape it on yet...

Insert the horizontal

stab into the fuselage

and mark where the

leading edge meets the

fuselage

You should make

marks as shown.

Cover the foam be-

tween the marks to

prevent sanding where

you don’t want to.

Again use masking

tape and attach the

elevator with the balsa

side up. Then sand a

taper onto the balsa

elevator only. Do a little

at a time and check

your work as you go to

prevent over sanding.

Here you can see the

taper to a sharp trailing

edge.

It doesn’t have to be

perfectly sharp.

Flip over the assembly

and sand the foam el-

evator down to a taper

as you just did on the

balsa side.

Now you will see the

elevator trailing edge

coming to a point.

Again it doesn’t have to

be a sharp tip.

Next sand the leading

edge of the horizontal

stabilizer rounded.

Clean off all the dust

well! Then use Blend-

erm or transparent

Scotch tape to tape the

elevator to the horizon-

tal stabilizer.

Flip it over and tape the

underside

You will nd that the

elevator keeps popping

up. Use your nger/n-

gernail to press down

the elevator hinge so

that it doesn’t keep

pointing up.

When taping the hinge

try to use a singe long

piece and then trim

when nished.

Apply glue to the fuse-

lage where the horizon-

tal stabilizer. Assembly

will be inserted.

Insert and glue the

horizontal stabilizer to

the fuselage. The balsa

side of the elevator fac-

ing up.

If you look underneath

you will see a protrud-

ing little part of the

fuselage that prevents

the elevator to move

down properly

Simply trim it away.

Now your elevator can

move down properly.

Flip over your fuselage

assembly so that it is

upside-down. Then

install your elevator

servo.

Use hot glue to secure

the elevator servo.

Install and glue the

control horn into the

hole of the elevator on

the bottom side. Then

insert your elevator

push rod on the top

hole.

Cut down your servo

arm down to leave 3

holes on the arm.

Tape the elevator so

that it is in neutral

position and line up the

pushrod with the tub-

ing inserted over your

servo arm.

Make a zig-zag bend

just behind the servo

so that you can make

minor adjustments after

set up on this linkage is

completed.

With your pliers grab

the wire and position

your ngers as shown.

Then simply twist the

pliers and you will

create a Z-bend. Use

it later for nal adjust-

ments after connect-

ing the pushrod to the

servo arm.

The Z-bend should

be as positioned as

shown.

Find some scrap

pieces of foam and

make a stack for to use

as a support for the

push rod tube. (2 pcs of

6mm or 4pcs of 3mm.)

This is important, do

not skip this step.

Position it about center

of the push rod length.

Trim a slot or groove

that the pushrod tube

can sit in. But dont glue

it in yet.

Line up the pushrod

over the hole in the

servo arm and mark it

with a sharpie. Try to

be exact.

Make a Z-bend using a

Z-bend tool

Use the mark you

made on the pushrod

to line up the Z-bend

tool properly.

It should t just right.

But if it doesn’t don’t

worry. Just open or

close the Z-bend that

was made for nal

adjustments until the

pushrod will t right into

the servo arm where

needed.

Now take one more

3mm piece of scrap

foam and glue a cover

over the pushrod tube

so that there is no way

for it to come loose.

Install the pushrod

on the servo arm and

screw it in the servo

now.

Hook up your servo to

your receiver and test

your elevator linkages.

Make any nal adjust-

ments here as this

is the last chance to

change any of it.

Once you are satised

that it is centered and

moving freely then glue

on the bottom piece.

Don’t worry if you

think your elevator is

not moving enough. It

takes very little move-

ment to properly control

this plane.

Glued and covered. If

you need to change

your servo in the future

you need to cut this

part open to access it.

Test t the battery

hatch.

You will nd that it

doesn’t follow the

same curvature of the

fuselage.

To curve it properly,

use a marker and press

down and roll away

from you while lifting

the end. You may need

to repeat this sev-

eral times to get a nice

natural curve.

Try to match the fuse-

lage shape as best as

you can. It is not utterly

critical to be perfect.

In fact you can get by

without much.

Place the battery hatch

in position to line up the

front piece so do not

glue the battery hatch.

Go ahead and glue

only the front piece on

now.

Hold it down on all 4

corners to make it con-

form to the curvature of

the fuse while the glue

cures. Or spray accel-

erator carefully while

holding all 4 corners

with one hand.

Remember we didn’t

glue the battery hatch.

Tape the front part of

the battery hatch. You

will be creating a one

way moving hinge.

Attach the taped part to

the front of the fuselage

bottom as shown.

Then ip up the battery

hatch and apply tape

to the underside of this

hinge.

Wrap the tape into the

fuselage.

Now you will have a

hatch for your battery.

You will only be using

tape to keep it closed

for each ight. It is the

safest solution to se-

cure the battery inside

the airplane when ying

fast and high G turns.

You can sand the

edges smooth as an

option. Only sand the

bottom of the fuselage

at this point

Now onto the wings.

First locate the curved

wings and put them

aside for now. We will

be working on the at

wing halves rst.

Tape down the at wing

halves and use the “T”

shaped 6mm parts as

a jig to properly space

the wing halve from

each other.

Insert the carbon tube

right between the

space of the 2 “T” jigs

then place the center

wing sections over the

tube. Line everything

up properly but don’t

glue yet.

Now once you check

for proper alignment

carefully remove one

side so that you don’t

move the alignment.

Then glue the carbon

tube down rst.

Then apply glue to

the center piece to be

glued over the carbon

spar you just glued.

Now that the right side

is completed and se-

cured from moving you

can lift the left center

wing panel and glue

the carbon tube.

Now nish off the left

center wing panel to be

glued down.

At this point the 2 wing

halves should be glued

and secured in the

proper position and

spacing.

Remove the “T” jigs.

Then take the longer

of the 2 at spars and

glue one half of it to

either side of the wing

center sections. See

next photo.

Apply glue then use a

piece of wax paper to

press it up against the

back side of the center

wing section. You can

lift the wax paper while

still holding it and spray

accelerator to cure it.

Once the left side is

cured move on to the

right side. Slip the wax

paper between the at

spar and the foam.

Then pull down the wax

paper and apply glue to

the back of the center

wing section

Then ip the wax paper

back to cover the glue

and spray accelerator

on the at spar.

Carefully remove the

wax paper and quickly

press the carbon at

spar up to the glue.

Use the wax paper to

press the at spar onto

the wing. This will keep

your ngers clean.

Repeat this process

with the remaining

shorter at spar on the

front side of the center

section. Use more glue

at the ends and hold it

while spraying acceler-

ator if you have trouble

with them.

Next take a piece of

scrap foam at least 9

inches long. Then cut

a strip about 3/32” It’s

okay to be a bit more

but not less.

3/32” is a little more

than 1/16”...

You will be cutting half

of that strip and glu-

ing it on each wing

half. Glue it where

it is marked with the

red line. Which is just

below the carbon tube

about 1/16”

Glue and trim to t as

shown. The point here

is to create a chan-

nel for the servo wire.

Try to make it as high

as the carbon tube is,

which should be only

about 3/32” raised up.

In order to assist locat-

ing the centerline when

sanding the leading

and trailing edge of the

completed wing you

should mark with a col-

ored sharpie the edges

as shown.

Do not mark as shown

here. These marks are

shown here for you to

know where to apply

glue when covering the

top skin. Don’t forget

to apply glue on the

carbon tube either! Pay

attention here and use

plenty of glue.

After you applied glue

to the read areas

prepare the top curved

wing skin to be joined

to the bottom sheets.

Put a couple small

strips of tape that

will act as hinges to

properly line up the top

sheet in one try.

The reason for doing

this is that you may

want to spray accel-

erator on the top sheet

for an instant bond.

But you have only one

chance to line it up

right. If you mess up a

little you may have to

live with a crocked wing

If so it’s ok, just trim it.

If you do spray the

accelerator make ab-

solutely sure that you

spray it far away from

the uncured glue on the

bottom sheet. Other-

wise you may cure it

before joining the 2

halves.

After completing both

side carefully, you need

to cut out the servo

wire channel out of

the top wing skin. You

should be able to see

where to carbon tube

is... cut directly below it

to the servo hole.

Cut a strip 1/16” right

below the carbon tube

and you will have cre-

ated a channel that will

t your servo wire.

Next prepare the aile-

ron wood pieces. Mark

and cut off the ends to

match the wing shape.

The width of the aile-

rons from front to back

is more than is needed.

Draw a line to match at

the thickest part of the

aileron. Do not trim the

trailing edge!

Bevel the aileron on

the line you drew. Now

your aileron will be the

right size and it will

have the necessary

bevel to create the

hinge.

Here you can see the

approximate 30 degree

bevel on the aileron.

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