Now comes the interesng bit. Remove all the components within the can except the heater connec-
ons and the two silver mica coil tuning capacitors and coil as shown on Figs 7,8 & 9 below
Re-model the components by moving the grid connecon from pin 2 to pin 1 and t the new compo-
nents within the doed line as per the circuit diagram (Fig.1). Extend a lead (I used 14 gauge solid wire)
from the anode connecon down and through the spare hole ( put some insulaon over it as it passes
through the hole in the boom of the can base) to form a pick up point for the Audio output to the cou-
pling capacitor like the other 5 base connecons. See Fig.10 below
NB: I used 2 wa resistors for the current carrying components which are the
68k, 18k and 220 ohms. This is to allow beer heat dissipaon as I don't want
to have to take the can out of the set once it is re-installed.
When you are happy that the components are correct and in the right place
put the can on one side and go onto the next bit.
To allow the audio and HT to be switched between the original set and the
new product detector we have to modify the BFO on/o switch. (Fig 11 be-
low)
In my case, and probably in your case as well,
the switch at present basically is A an anchor
for a set of wires at the top side and B a switch
to connect HT to the old BFO circuit.
The centre contacts are bridged which has to
be removed. Then the top (white wires in my
case) are all un-soldered and reconnected as a
group and isolated. This leaves the HT connect-
ed to one side of the boom contacts with a
(blue in my case ) wire feeding the old BFO can
on the other side. Re-connect the main HT feed to the centre contact from the boom contact to the
same side as the dangling feed to the old BFO can.
See Fig.12 on next page
Fig.7. Fig.8. Fig.9.
Fig.10.
Fig.11.
