FoamFly Gremlin Manuale utente

Gremlin

Instruction Manual

Electric Foam Parkflyer

Available Exclusively from:

www.FoamFly.com

4077 WoodCreek Dr.

Ypsilanti MI. 48197

USA

Thank you for purchasing the FoamFly Gremlin! If you’re reading this, you’ve

probably already been charmed and cannot resist building and flying one. You

may not ever see another plane like it. This is the state of the art in foam

building kits. Who said foam had to be flat??? A plane every bit as nice as those

“made in china” kits, but you build it yourself. You’ll know this plane inside and

out.

All the pieces are specially designed to interlock, and are computer cut so that

they fit perfectly every time.

Gremlin Specs:

•Wingspan: 36”

•Ready To Fly Weight 10-14 Oz.

•Motor (x2): GWS EPS-300c (or CD-Rom, or Brushless)

•Propeller: 7”-9” (9x7 3-Blade Recommended)

•Batteries: 2-3 cell 1200mAh Lithium Polymer, or 8-9

cell NiMHs. Basically any 1.5 – 2.5 Oz

battery.

•Receiver: GWS R4P (or other 4 Channel)

•Servos: GWS Pico BB (or Hitec HS-50)

•ESC: GWS ICS-300 (15-Amp Speed Control for

brushed setups)

Introduction:

FoamFly.com is more than just a hobby company. It’s a community too!

With pilots and designers from all over. Please take pictures and videos of your

Gremlin, and I’ll put them in the photo gallery. Feel free to drop by and see what

all the other foam junkies have been building. There are free plans, and lots of

tips and ideas as well as unique new planes that you won’t find anywhere else.

NEW!! FoamFly kits are now easier to assemble. New techniques make all the

most tedious steps unnecessary.

Okay, you’ve got your Gremlin kit spread out in front of you. I know it looks

complicated, but take it one step at a time, and you won’t find it very difficult.

(They always say this but, “I highly recommend that you read the entire

instruction manual before beginning.”) Just remember to test fit each piece

before gluing, and if you get frustrated, just take a break, and have a soda. You

don’t have to finish this plane in one sitting.

There are some techniques you’ll need to be familiar with to make the most

of your kit. I’ll refer to them as they’re needed, but the details of those

techniques will be in the Appendix at the end of this manual.

Don’t let all the text in this manual scare you. Here we go.

1) Identify all the parts:

You’ll need to know which part is which, unless you want to end up with the

flying equivalent of Frankenstein’s Monster. So, let’s start by taking a look at

what you’ve got here.

a) Foam Airplane Parts:

(1) Center Keel

(2) Fuselage Formers

(3) Fuselage Bottom

(4) Fuselage Top

(5) Hood

(6) Rudder

(7) Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevators

(8) Wings (2)

(9) Wheel Pants

A little trimming of the parts sheets reveals an easy to assemble collection of

parts.

And of course even a foam plane needs a few odds and ends to tie

everything together. Take a few moments to inspect what you’ve got here.

As the items are called for you’ll get more info on their intended uses.

b) Non-Foam Parts:

i) Plastic Control Horns

ii) Wire for Pushrods

iii) Wire to Join Elevators

iv) Wire for Aileron Torque rods

v) Wheels

vi) Aluminum Axles

vii) Landing Gear Supports

viii) Wood for Motor Mounting (Depends on which motor type)

ix) 2-Liter Soda bottle

2) Let’s Begin:

Assemble the main Fuselage

a) Fit the formers into place in the fuselage. It’s easiest to glue each one

before proceeding to the next. Working from the rear, slip a former into

the slot on the keel, and Hot Glue it into place (See appendix section,

“Gluing: Hot Glue Welding”)

i) Repeat the process for the middle former.

ii) The Firewall Former takes a little care to slip into place. Slip it in at

a slight angle, and then straighten and drop it into the slot. Weld

the former into place at each point, being careful not to get glue into

the slot where the motor mount stick will go.

b) Peel one side of the fuselage bottom. (This will be the inside) Next,

use your knife to split the tab at the rear end of the piece. Carefully

bend the foam into a curved shape that matches the bottom of the keel

as closely as possible. (See appendix section, “Rolling the Foam”)

c) Test fit the bottom in place. The

split tab will fit on either side of the

rudder, and snap into the holes

there. Once you’re comfortable

with the fit, glue the bottom in with

the contact cement. (See

appendix section, “Gluing: Contact

Cement”) For extra strength, hot

glue weld the bottom in place from

the inside afterward.

d) Peel the inside of the Fuselage top. Gently

roll the foam till it is a good fit over the tops

of the formers. (See appendix section,

”Rolling the Foam”) Be especially careful

when bending the rear portion, as the bend

is quite sharp. Go slowly, and check the fit

often. Be sure that the elevator slots all line

up straight when the part is in place, and

that the bottom edges fit flush.

i) Glue the fuse top in place with the contact cement. Make sure that

the top section is properly centered, and that everything lines up as

noted above.

ii) Hot Glue Weld the seams where the rudder exits the fuselage on

the bottom.

Ta Da!!! Make sure the especially that the tail and wing slots line up.

3) The Wings: Cut a piece of the 3mm carbon fiber to an 11.5” length. Press

it into the slot in the bottom of the wing, and hot glue weld into place.

a) Form an airfoil into each wing by rolling the foam. The grooves go on

the bottom of the wing, so make sure you end up with both a left and

right wing. Check the fit against the slot in the fuselage, and the top of

the wheelpants to see if your airfoil is the correct shape. You

“massage”

the

leading edge a little with a finger and thumb to make sure that it’s a

good fit.

b) Run a length of strapping tape on the bottom of each wing. One just

under the leading edge, and the other just in front of the aileron slot.

c) Tape hinge the ailerons into their places

in the wing. Get out the torque rods.

You’ll notice they’re much longer than

they need to be. We’ll be cutting them

down, but save the excess to make the

elevator joiner wire. Starting at the end

of the torque rod with the loop on it, cut it

down to a ??” Length. Slide a two small

pieces of the black tubing over the pushrod before making the next

bend.

d) Bend a 3/4” section at the end of each torque rod to a 90 degree angle

on one direction, but a 75 degree angle in the other (see picture)

Repeat for the other torque rod, but in mirror image. It is VERY

important that you end up with a separate left and right torque rod.

Also, don’t forget to put the black tubing on the second one…. I did. ;)

e) Fit the loop of each torque rod

through the cutout in the wing, then

glue the tubing into the grooves to

support the torque rods. Cut a small

groove into the bottom of each

aileron where the end of the torque

rod will be glued in place. Slip

another piece of the black tube over the end and glue the tubing into

place. Do not glue the wire into any of the tubes, they must be able to

slide freely.

f) Make a small slit in the wing leading forward from the torque rod hole on

the top side. This will allow you to press the loop of wire down into the

foam. Once the loop of wire is flush with the foam, you’ll be able to slide

the wing into the fuselage.

g) The wings will each have about 5 degrees of dihedral. Test fit the wing,

when you’re sure you know how it will fit, run a bead of hot glue along

the base of the wing, and slide it into place. Once that glue has set, Hot

Glue Weld the wing in place from the outside of the fuse. It’s going to be

a bit easier if you put in the aileron servo before gluing the second wing

into the slot. Make sure that you’ve centered the servo, and gotten the

control horn on straight before putting it in the plane. Fish the servo

wire through the lower hole in the former into the front compartment, or

out behind the wing depending on where you’ll mount the receiver..

Then, repeat all this and attach the other wing.

4) The Control Surfaces:Tape hinge the two halves of the elevator into place

on the horizontal stabilizer. Slide a couple of small pieces of small black

tubing over a piece of .047” wire. Put a 90 degree bend in one end of the

wire, and another on the other side of the tubing so that you have a U shape

that is 1” on each end, and 2” in the middle.

a) Glue the tubing into the slot in the center of the fuselage so that the wire

is free to rotate. Center the joiner in the slot, and cut a small grove in

the bottom of each elevator half. Slip another small piece of black

tubing on the ends of each side of the “U” and glue them into the

grooves that you just cut in the elevator. Do not glue the wire into any of

the tubes, they must be able to slide freely.

b) Carefully slide the completed horizontal stabilizer through the slot in the

fuselage. Make sure that it is straight and centered, and hot glue weld

the horizontal stabilizer in place.

c) Tape Hinge the Rudder in place, and trim off the excess tape.

5) Radio Gear:You might have already

installed the aileron servo, but if not you’ll

want to do it now. The servo should fit into

the small pocket between the wings. Use

your hot glue gun to “rivet” the servo into

place.

a) Decide where to put the rest of the gear. If you’re going to use a very

lightweight motor, and

small battery, you can

mount the servos on either

side of the center keel, in

the front section. If you’re

using a heavier motor and

battery, you can mount the

servos and receiver back in

the cabin area. In either

case, mounting the servos with double sided tape is the easiest way.

The pushrods should go through the foam leading from the control

surface where the horn will be, to the servos in the straightest line

possible. This usually means that the servo will be on the opposite side

from the horn with the pushrods crossing in the middle. Mount the

receiver with double sided tape also.

b) Attach the control horns to the surfaces where the pushrods will line up

with them. Make a small slit in the foam and insert the control horn.

Position it so the hole lines up directly over the hinge line. When

everything lines up hot glue weld the horns in place.

c) Connect the pushrods to the servos. I highly recommend the Dubro E/Z

Connectors. They make life a lot easier when it comes to connecting

pushrods to your servos. You could also use a z-bend at each end and

a v-bend in the middle for adjustments. Fit the rubber grommets into

the loops in the aileron torque rods, and press a z-bend from the

pushrod into the grommet. You’ll probably need to use needle nosed

pliers for this. Connect the other ends of the aileron pushrods to the

aileron servo. Hook up the pushrods for the elevator and rudder now

too.

6) Motor Mount: The kit comes set up to mount a geared motor. Glue the motor

stick into the slot in the firewall. Put a little hot glue on the back of the stick

and push it into place. When that glue has set, hot glue weld the stick in

place. Slide the gearbox onto the stick, while fishing the motor wires

carefully into the plane. I highly recommend using a set screw to hold the

motor onto the stick. An extra servo mounting screw works nicely.

7) Finishing Touches: Peel the inside of the hood, and roll it to be just round

enough to sit nicely on the front formers. You might need to sand the edges

on the bottom sides to be a tighter fit. Tape hinge the hood in place on one

side. Place a piece of tape on the fuselage side opposite from the hinge, as

an attachment point. Use another piece of tape on the hood itself. Folding a

small lip on the edges makes it easy to get a grip on the tape for opening the

hood.

a) Assemble the wheelpants. Lay out the left and right halves of one set,

and cut the wood reinforcement sticks to the length of the pre-cut

grooves. Run a bead of

hot glue down a groove,

and press the stick in.

When both sticks are in

one half, get your contact

cement and prepare the

other half. When you’ve

got contact cement on

both halve, ready to go, run a bead of hot glue in the grooves on the

second half, and then quickly press the two halves together.

b) Some of the wheels are thicker than others, so you might need to

“squeeze” the foam a little so the wheels will spin freely. After checking

on the wheel fit, glue the outer sides on the wheelpants. Pop the wheel

in place, and slip the aluminum axle through the holes. Glue the Axle in

place. A couple of drops of foam-safe CA glue work perfectly. (Careful

not to glue the wheels in place too. They gotta spin!)

c) Glue the wheelpants to the bottom of the wings at an equal distance

from the center. Use the contact cement, and when they’re firmly in

place, hot glue weld around the base where it meets the wing.

Altri manuali FoamFly Giocattolo

FoamFly

FoamFly Insta-Plane B-25 Manuale utente

FoamFly

FoamFly Stagger Wing Manuale utente

FoamFly

FoamFly Pelican Seaplane Manuale utente

FoamFly

FoamFly FAT P-47 Manuale utente

FoamFly

FoamFly XPG Manuale utente

FoamFly

FoamFly EZ-Floats Manuale utente

FoamFly

FoamFly The "Frog" Manuale utente

Manuali Giocattolo popolari di altre marche

marklin

marklin 37321 Manuale utente

Canon

Canon PAPER CRAFT Manuale utente

GREAT PLANES

GREAT PLANES Pitts M-12S Manuale utente

NOCH

NOCH 14261 Manuale utente

Hausler

Hausler 450 SE V2 Manuale utente

Dynaflite

Dynaflite Daydream Manuale utente

MiniacRC

MiniacRC MIGHTY MINI P40 WARHAWK Manuale

Kenner

Kenner Batman 63651 Manuale utente

LEGO

LEGO 8527 Manuale utente

iKarus

iKarus ECO 8 Manuale utente

Multiplex

Multiplex EasyStar II Manuale di istruzioni

Walkera

Walkera 38 Manuale di istruzioni

Hasbro

Hasbro TRANSFORMERS BUMBLEBEE Manuale utente

MD MXION SWD Manuale utente

Mattel

Mattel Disney Pixar Cars Cozy Cone Spiral Rampway Manuale utente

marklin

marklin 39671 Manuale utente

Meccano

Meccano 15103 Manuale utente

LEGO

LEGO TECHNIC 8735 Manuale utente