GRAUPNER MICRO MAGIC Manuale utente

Manual

racing Micro Magic HoTT

This model is one of the GRAUPNER/SJ sailboat series. These models are almost finished

constructed and painted. To make the model ready to sail, just install the RC components

and the battery and the model can be used.

Technical data

Length 535 mm

Beam, approx 180 mm

Overall height approx. 980 mm

Weight RC system incl., drive battery

excl. 870 g

Package content

Graupner Micro Magic HoTT

Hull Included

Sailset Included

Electronics (2x Servo)) Included

GR-12 receiver HoTT Included

Charger, Transmitter, Batteries Not included

Operating instructions

Assemble the boat stand and secure the connections with wood or cyano glue .

If desired, you can plump up the surface for the boat with a soft material.

For example, No. 701.2

Assembling the boat stand

Installation of rudder

Grease the rudder shaft slightly and mount the helm along with the small compression spring

and the tiller. Drag The linkage when the RC system is installed and the rudder servo is ori-

ented in the desired neutral position.

Installation of keel

Plug the keel in the hull and secure the keel from the top with the enclosed washer and nut. It

is suggested to use some thread lock fluid. Through the weight the boat is now ready for

further assembly.

If you plan to participate in ranking regattas, check using a simple cardboard template, if the

keel in the fully screwed into position protrudes more than 135mm down from the hull. While

this increases the stability of your boat in recreational use, but is not allowed by the current

class rules in competitions. So, if the result is not as shown in the picture and the hull touches

the template, remove the keel again and cut or grind its top sloping edge gradually away

about 1 to 2 millimeters material until the keel is deep enough into the hull and 135 mm are

no longer exceeded. Then also the thread must be a few millimeters shorter, if necessary, so

that it does not hit in the installed state.

Assembly of the rig

Note: The rig of your Micro Magic RTR is designed so that it can be replaced by another /

smaller one if necessary for use in competition, without requiring nodes must be opened.

Slide the boom bearing on the mast so that the aluminum press-down is on top. Take the lon-

ger cord, with a prepared sliding clamp and run the free end of the bottom through the plastic

tubes on boom fitting. Loosen both screws on the mast plate, insert the mast with the fitting

completely into the hull, so that the two lugs engage the boom bearings in the recesses of the

mast and the mast plate rests on the hull bottom. Tilt the mast until it stops backwards and

screw the mast plate firmly back.

Attach the masthead already ailing backstay at the rear by putting and move the loop over

the round fitting the clamping slide so that the stay is slightly stretched, without bending the

mast. Attach both shrouds (mast bracing to the side) and keep here also very little tension.

Important: The opening of the staples must be facing aft. Twist the eyelets if necessary.

Otherwise, the jib sheet could be caught in sailing, which would make the boat nearly unma-

nageable and it might be a threat to the sail servo.

Assembly of the main sail

Even the mainsail can be optimized a bit for the regatta use. Please skip to the next para-

graph if you do not need it.

Insert the leading edge of the mainsail (luff) in parallel with a ruler or other straight line flat on

a surface. If the luff is straight, you can subsequently set an approximately 4 millimeters deep

curve with the round part facing to the mast. Attach to the sail as with masking tape smoothly

but without tension on a flat surface. Suitable is, for example, glas or an old mirror. Mark a

point about 24 cm from the top (sail top) and about 27 cm from the bottom (tack) to the top of

the luff. Cut with a very sharp knife (a fresh snap-off blade is normally sufficient) from the top

point upwards and 2 mm from the bottom point down 1.5mm diagonally backwards. Attach

the luff again on the pad and mark at about half of the triangle cuts, ie 12 cm from the top and

14 cm from the bottom two more points. Now repeat the process and cut off the new points

again about 2 mm and 1.5 mm from the bottom. Now you have an approximate curve by 4

mm depth, the deepest point is slightly above the center and corresponds approximately to

the course of a bent mast. This luff curve will later push something extra tread depth to the

mainsail. Tension the backstay a little more, so that the mast deflects approximately 3mm.

Please check the holes that have been done along the luff to accommodate the mast rings.

They should be about 2 mm away from the front edge of the leech. If the distance is too lar-

ge, you can use a hot needle to make new holes near the old ones. If you have re-cut your

luff as described above, place the holes in each place where they meet the cut edges. You

should also have holes for attachment to the mainsail head (above) and the bottom (front bot-

tom), each at about 2 to 3 mm from the luff and 3mm spacing from upper or lower edge of the

sail.

Now you can install the mainsail. First knot the head with a minimum distance to the prepared

string in the top of the mast. The upper edge of the sail should not be more than 5 mm below

the boom. Next, fix the rear end of the sail (clew) at the end of the boom (yardarm) between

the two silicon rings. To do this you may need to tilt by rotating the pressing-down the mast

slightly upwards. Loop the cord attached to the sail once or twice around the mast and put

the knots so that the lower edge of the sail (leech) is still 2 to 3 millimeters above the silicone

rings.

Now turn the press-down again so that the rear edge of the mainsail (leech) has just a very

slight tension. At the press-down should have on each side about 4 mm free thread visible. If

necessary, loosen the retaining screw on the clamping bracket and move the stop point ac-

cording to the boom. You should fix the clamping angle into its final position with a drop of

cyano or a tape winding against slipping to the boom yardarm.

Now you can attach the mast that you have assembled before to boom bearing threaded luff

straightener to the sail. Insert the eyelet coming out of the clamping slide to the front hook on

the deck and move it so that it comes to clamping slide to lie on deck just behind the rear

hook. Knotting the upwardly free end coming out from the tube with the tack and tighten the

luff slightly by moving the clamping slide on the bow to the stern. The mainsail should now

end about 10 mm above the boom fitting. If the distance is smaller, you should try to connect

the sail slightly shorter to the top. Otherwise, the boom will collide after a wile with the cabin

roof.

Take the mast rings, run them through the holes in the luff and around the pole and hook the

hook in the eyes. Tip: If you have lost a mast ring, you can tie the luff with a thin cord to the

mast. Thus, the rings are not too tight and the sail still can rotate well, push each before tigh-

tening the knot a 2.5mm strong drill or pin as a spacer in the loop.

Now keep tension out of the leech by opening the press-down a little more than half a turn

and then counter.

Move the silicone rings on clew so that about 20 mm belly come into sailing. Now, if you flip

the boat nearly horizontally and bring boom yardarm by hand in the middle of the boat, then

the leech of the sail at the top of about 3.5 cm apart (twist) must not have the backstay. Me-

morize this position as the default setting for the twist of the mainsail.

Now take back the tension of the luff.

Tip: You should never have more tensi-

on than necessary on the sails.

Assembly of the Foresail (Fock)

Pull the counterweight from the jib boom. Insert the pin through the ring at the lower end of

the forestay (the tack) and insert the pin again. If the pin is quite loose, secure it with a drop

of glue.

Run the battered already on tack downhaul as shown from front to back through the eyelet of

the plastic part on the jib boom and tie it close with the clip at the luff.

Attach the clew as did in the mainsail between the silicone hose pieces at the boom yardarm.

Knot a piece of cord with deferred clam-

ping slide to the ring which is struck about

10 cm below the masthead. The two to-

gether lying holes of the clip pusher

should be placed down (as in the arrange-

ment backstay). Run the lower end of the

cord through the ring on foresail head and

back and through the bottom hole in the

clamping slide. Clamp the cord firmly as

provisionally with a clothespin.

Move the ailing ring to the jib boom so

that it is above the front hooks on deck

when the boom yardarm is still about 10

mm from the mast. Hang the ring at the

prepared bowstringer in the rear hooks on

deck. Position the clamping slide approxi-

mately in the middle of the hooks. Run the

free end of the string through the last

existing ring, hang this ring a in the front

hook and knot the cord up to the ring on

the jib boom. The jib boom should have

no more than 10 mm from the hook, so do

not be attached too high on deck.

At the rear end of the jib boom (boom yardarm) the forestay has already struck. It enables the

twist of the headsail to be set later. Run the free end of the forestay upward through the ring

on the mast, hang the shroud to the forestay and tie it tight. Pull the terminal tab on the fo-

restay slightly upward so that the leech of the headsail describes a slight curve.

Now you can attach the clip pusher of the forestay. The mast is still tense from the backstay

or slightly bent aft. Place the clamping slide between the two rings a little below the middle

and tie it tight, without giving any additional length in the cord.

Move the silicone pieces at the clew so that in the sail there are approximately 17mm belly.

Secure all knots with a drop of cyano or plastic adhesives. Cut off the excess cord pieces.

With a very small lighter flame close to the cord ends, you can prevent them from fraying. Do

not burn the (combustible) cord, neither put the flame near the sails!

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