Henseleit Three-Dee RIGID Manuale utente

Three-Dee

RIGID

Version 2010-2011

M a n u a l

March 2011

Jan Henseleit

A T T E N T I O N! I M P O R T A N T!

Please read the manual before opening the bags

Table of ontents

Safety instructions: p. 3

TD- Rigid: Description and technical data p. 4

Parts list: List of all parts of the single assembly groups p. 7

Technical data / Accessories p. 8

Introduction: Important! General information for the assembly p. 9

hapter I Main rotor ( Assembly group 1 ) p. 10

hapter II Rotor shaft unit ( Assembly group 4 ) p. 12

hapter III Intermediate shaft unit ( Assembly group 5 ) p. 13

hapter IV Tail boom ( Assembly group 8 ) p. 14

hapter V hassis ( Assembly group 2 ) p. 15

Pre-assembly of the upper part of the chassis p. 15

Ad ustment of the gear play p. 16

Pre-assembly of the lower part of the chassis p. 17

Assembly of the upper part to the lower part of the chassis p. 18

hapter VI R preparation ( Servos ) p. 19

hapter VII ontrol and servo assembly ( Assembly group 6 ) p. 20

hapter VIII Assembly of the electric motor ( Assembly group 7 ) p. 23

hapter IX Tail gear ( Assembly group 9 ) p. 25

hapter X Assembly and struts of the tail boom ( Assembly group 8 ) p. 30

hapter XI Assembly of the electronic parts ( V- Stabi / receiver / controller / batteries ) p. 32

hapter XII V-Stabi onnection and programmation p. 36

hapter XIII Final tasks ( anopy etc. ) p. 38

hapter XIV Adjustments ( V-Stabi, rotor blades, throttle curves etc. ) p. 39

hapter XV Directions for initial flight ( RPM, operating limits, hints etc. ) p. 42

hapter XVI Maintenance / spare parts p. 45

Safety Advice

A remote controlled helicopter is not a toy and must be kept out of the hands of children.

Only correctly assembled helicopters, that are maintained regularly, after each flight, can function properly.

Keep a safe distance from the helicopter and always assume that something may go wrong at any time causing it to become

uncontrollable.

If repairs have to be carried out only use original parts that you can order directly in my web-shop.

Lack of attention to detail, or mistakes in the helicopter assembly, or assembly of components and a lack of experience in

using the radio control can result in the helicopter becoming uncontrolled and dangerous. Due to the enormous kinetic energy

in the rotors, there is a risk of fatal in uries or death and damage of any type can occur due to lack of attention.

Therefore do not fly over people, cars or anything else that might be in danger. Safety is very important and is your

responsibility, as the manufacturer and the sales agents have no control over the use or maintenance of the Three-Dee

RIGID.

The company Henseleit Metallverarbeitung and it sales representatives are not liable or responsible for any damage or

in uries arising from products out of their supply programme and therefore are not responsible in any way, as proper use or

assembly can not be supervised by us.

I strongly recommend that you do not use products that are not documented and specified in my handbook. An up to date

spare part price list can be obtained from me or my sales agents. You also will find current information on my website.

The copying of text or text extracts, drawings and pictures is only allowed with my prior agreement in writing.

Jan Henseleit

T h r e e - D e e R I G I D

The TDR was the first 1.6 meter class production helicopter worldwide which was only delivered with a Rigid main rotor for

flybarless flying.

In my opinion the flybar will not be used any more in future. Due to the technological progress the rise of the electric

helicopter in all sizes cannot be prevented any more either. The advantages prevail concerning nearly all points, so that the

further development is more or less predictable.

Because of the apparent demand for flybarless electric helicopters the development of a light system without any

compromises was the consequent step to apply new standards and to get a compact model especially being ad usted to the

3 axis stabilisation, which perfectly supports the completely new possibilities.

Concept:

In general it is not possible to re-invent the wheel. Over the years I have presented innovations and tried various possibilities

that have also been adapted in other areas. Some day you approach a constructive solution offering all possible physical

features.

There are always different possibilities to achieve the aim. However, after some time there is also the danger that only the

design is modified not resulting in flight-technical advantages. I am interested in building a system that is determined by a

clever assembly of the absolutely necessary components and a minimum number of parts.

In my opinion a straight and clear design is the advantage of this helicopter. For the first time I decided to use a two-stage

drive in my helicopters.

Due to the positive experiences using the MP series with the spiral cut gear wheels module 1 concerning the efficiency,

robustness and operating noise the different constructive advantages prevail in spite of the small loss caused by the second

stage.

In contrast to the predecessor possible savings could be achieved because the production of the smaller gear wheels is less

complex and problematic and the one-way drive shaft can be smaller because it is mounted on the intermediate shaft.

In opposite to belt driven systems the efficiency is much higher which save a lot of battery power.

The rigidity of the entire mechanics is increased without using additional stiffening elements. The extremely compact

assembly of the transmission unit which is the core of the mechanics results in an optimal assembly of the two tail boom

mountings that are located far from each other as well as an optimal support of the main rotor shaft.

The distance between the upper mount plate and the compact main rotor centre hub is smaller than in any other helicopter of

this size, so that the bending stress on the hollow 10mm main rotor shaft does not cause any problems.

The complete tail gear drive has got an improvement and in opposite to the TDR-2009 all gears are manufactured with milling

machines so that the tolerance is much better than of the in ection plastic gears before.

A horizontal stabiliser was not used any more. This part is not really necessary and it interferes with the flight. Besides it

increases the weight as well the vibrations and is difficult to transport (it is amazing how much easier it is to place the

helicopters without horizontal stabiliser next to each other and turned by 180° in the car).

Thanks to the remarkably slender and futuristic design of the helicopter you do not miss the horizontal stabiliser.

For people who have not much space in their cars it is especially advantageous that the tail boom including the front pinion,

the struts and the push rod can be removed from the helicopter within less than a minute.

In order to do so, you only have to detach both struts as well as the push rod in the front area of the mechanics, loosen the

two lower attachment screws of the tail boom holder and pull out the tail boom to the back.

The tail boom is automatically fixed at the correct position in the front holder, so that it is always exactly aligned after having

been pushed in.

The carbon chassis structure can be divided into the upper and the lower part, whereas the robust upper part includes all

components necessary for the flight and the lower part only contains the battery and my obligatory skid plates.

Thus the light mechanics can perfectly be integrated into the fuselages because for this purpose the lower part can be

removed completely in order to mount corresponding fastening angles. The advantage of a mechanics consisting of a flyable

upper part where only a stable battery support and the skid plates are attached at the lower area is its great flexibility for

different individual uses that can be realised later.

All batteries up to dimensions of 60x60x360mm can easily be inserted into the protecting slot of the „Rigid“ from the front as

well as from the back.

The spacers are covered with a silicon tube such that the battery is held in a non-slip and safe position by only two Velcro

strips.

The entire mechanics is extremely easy to maintain and can be mounted and dismounted quickly.

The gear stages can be assembled and disassembled individually without having to dismount the entire mechanics. It is also

possible to assemble and disassemble all servos without dismounting the mechanics.

After adding the recommended equipment inclusive blades the helicopter ready to fly has a weight of about 3,1kg without the

drive battery.

Using a 12s accumulator of 3700mAh and 1200g a take-off weight of nearly 4.3kg can be reached, which is an amazing

value for an all-metal carbon helicopter with this rigidity, stability and life time.

The futuristic canopy with its distinctively surrounding line as well as its concave recesses guarantees a considerably better

visibility due to the increased height. It also underlines the very compact appearance.

The low distance between the upper side of the mechanics and the main rotor results in completely new proportions. Thus

the actual rotor is located directly above the canopy, which gives the helicopter a very racy design.

People who know me have experienced that I set a high value on 3D performance as well as on fast speeds since I have built

my first helicopter, the old, blue Three Dee. In my opinion there is nothing more elegant and fascinating than a helicopter

dashing through the air with high speed and blade noises like a pod racer.

That is the reason why the Rigid canopy was designed a bit more aerodynamically which is shown by the extreme high speed

flight qualities, forwards as well as backwards.

The V-Stabi electronic system offers completely new perspectives regarding the high speed flight, which were not possible

when using a flybar. So the advantage of an aerodynamic casing is even more considerable.

Try speeding. It is fun, looks elegant and helps to relieve stress and to relax.

During the flight events it is a popular alternative to flying within a small area of 10x10 m which is nowadays quite common.

For the „aged ones“ among us who are older than 25 years old it is still good to cope with because it does not require such

quick reactions but more sensitiveness and an eye for spacing.

You will also en oy loopings with a diameter of 150 m or nice slow rolls like being drawn over the entire field on a string.

But be careful, slowly approach spacious flying over longer distances, it has to be learnt!

For many years I have known of the problems that layman have during the quite complicated lacquering process. That is why

I developed a high-quality, UV resistant decal set with a window and a comet tail to give the helicopter a typical, distinctive

design. It can be attached by every reasonably skilful user.

The result looks like a high-gloss clean lacquering without frayed edges and is much cheaper and quicker to apply than every

kind of lacquering.

In general, it was my aim to keep the costs of replacement parts as low as possible, so that the nice helicopter will not only be

used on Sundays. That is why I decided to use again my well-proven blackly anodised 25mm aluminium tail boom. In my

opinion the still increasing costs for carbon tail booms because their more precious look are not ustified and after a crash

they can be a considerable cost factor.

When using a flybarless helicopter the flight properties mostly depend on the used stabilisation electronics to emphasise the

quality and performance of the mechanics. So I recommend the flybarless V-Stabi system developed by Uli Röhr and

distributed by Mikado.

The recommended engine using a Pyro 700–52 (with standard shaft) in connection with the successfully operating Jive

controller not requiring any receiver power supply is the optimal configuration for this helicopter at present.

Test flights have shown that this setup in 12s operation allows a speed of approx. 1900 rpm at a pitch of up to 14 degrees, if

necessary.

I think that the standard Pyro 700-52 or something similar like the Scorpion 4035-560KV with about 3 to 4kw is strong enough

for 98% of the pilots.

There are motors with more power but the difference in maximum speed is so little that it makes no sense in my eyes. I think

that stronger motors can be an option for people who only wants to fly fast on a long straight distance. (for records and so on)

If you dive down from a higher altitude you will have no difference in speed.

The disadvantages of big motors is a higher weight and a much higher temperature which will stress the plastic gear of the

first gear step. So have to be very carefully not to break many gears during flight because of to high temperature.

Also bigger batteries will be necessary which also add up weight and the complete helicopter gets very hot under the canopy

which may ends in electronic failure.

A easy way to otimize the TDR with the recommended motor for speeding is to set the ESC to 100% and use 15 teeth pinion

with a 12s setup than you will have plenty of power and speed 

In this configuration there are some details which you have to observe. You will find some informations about that in chapter

XV “Directions for initial flight”

In general, this light helicopter also allows an 10s operation with brilliant performance values. Because of the low difference in

price between the 10s and 12s batteries the decision which battery to use is problably not too difficult.

Flight attempts have shown that a slightly higher capacity is needed for the same flight time when using 10s batteries. The

reason for this is the higher power consumption at a lower voltage. Thus the balance of weight between the 10s and the 12s

is compensated.

The advantage of the 12s is that it offers more power during extreme manoeuvres.

Apart from that the use of 10s provides more power than every optimally ad usted glow version.

In connection with the development of the Rigid numerous test flights with a logger data capture were carried through, which

persuaded me to refrain from the exaggerated present max rotor speed hype.

Thanks to light models with flybarless main rotors it is not necessary any more to race with a rotor head speed exceeding the

limit of 2000. The properties when flying straight on are even fantastic at 1300 rpm at the main rotor. Every flybar head

helicopter would pitch up hopelessly at these manoeuvres.

Most of the 3D figures can be flown because of a lower rotor disc load also using a more moderate head speed. So more

than 1800 rpm at the main rotor are unnecessary when flying this helicopter.

The logger data show that the efficiency of the blades decreases rapidly with increasing head speed, so that most of the

energy is wasted.

For the same flight condition „Hovering at one position“ 570W is required at 1300 rpm at the rotor and at 1850 rpm you

already need 1000W. At more than 2100 rpm 1500W are required, i. e. nearly the triple amount, although you do nothing

more than hovering.

This result shows clearly that the flight time can be increased considerably, if the rotor does not constantly rotate at full

speed. All these results have contributed to and influenced the choice of the speed reduction and the recommended drive of

the Rigid.

Only exception to fly with higher rotor rpm is for speed competitions were the flight time is not important (please also look into

chapter XV)

Bag Part-No. Term pcs. Bag Part-No. Term Stk. Bag Part-No. Term pcs.

(-1-) M A I N R O T O R (-4-) M A I N S H A F T U N I T (-8-) T A I L B O O M

RI - 0100 FLYBAR LINK GUIDE 2RI - 0400 SWASH PLATE 1RI - 0800 BOOM 25x920mm 1

RI - 0100a STUD 2x 20 2aTHREADED LINK BALL M3x3 / 9 long 3RI - 0801-2010 SQUARE HEADED COUPLING 2

RI - 0102s O - RING 16x2.5 hard 4bTHREADED LINK BALL M3x4 / 9 long 2RI - 0801a GRUB SCREW M4x4 2

RI - 0103 ROTOR BRAKE CAP 1cDOME HEAD SCREW M3x 6 3RI - 0802 CARBON BOOM SUPPORT 580mm 2

RI - 0105b HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 8 2dWASHER M3 small 3RI - 0804 ATTACHING BALLS for 0807 2

RI - 0105c HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 12 2RI - 0410 ROTOR SHAFT (hollow) 1RI - 0804a LENS HEAD SCREW M3x 8 2

RI - 0107 SPACER WASHER 8x 14x 0,2 2RI - 0412 SPACER BUSH 40mm 1RI - 0805 BOOM SUPPORT END 2

RI - 0109-2010 O - RING INNER BUSHER 2RI - 0413 SPACER BUSH 11,5mm 1RI - 0805a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 25 1

RI - 0110-2010 FEATHERING SPINDLE tempered 1RI - 0414 MAIN SHAFT GEAR FLANGE 1RI - 0805b NYLOC NUT M3 1

RI - 0111-2010 SPACER WASHER 8x 14x 0,2 2RI - 0414a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M4x 18 1RI - 0807 BALL LINK 8mm 2

RI - 0113 RADIAL BEARING 8x 16x 5 4RI - 0414b NYLOC NUT M4 1RI - 0807a THREADED ROD M3,5x 30 2

RI - 0114 BLADEHOLDER 2RI - 0414c WASHER M4 1RI - 0808 TAIL PUSH ROD SUPPORT front 1

RI - 0115 AXIAL BEARING 8x 16x 5 2RI - 0415 SPACER WASHER 10x 16 x 0,5 1RI - 0809 CARBON BOOM SUPPORT CLAMP 1

RI - 0116 PITCHARM 2RI - 0416-2010 MAIN SHAFT GEAR 1RI - 0810-2010 TAIL DRIVE SHAFT 852mm 1

RI - 0116a THREADED LINK BALL M3x4 / 4 long 2RI - 0416a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 12 6RI - 0813-2010 DRIVE SHAFT BEARING assembly a-f

RI - 0117 SPACER WASHER 5x 10 x 1 2RI - 0417 SPACER WASHER set (10x16x0,2 / 0,3) PE aBEARING SUPPORT 2

RI - 0119 HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M5x10 -12.9 2bRADIAL BEARING 10x 15x 4 lose 2

RI - 0120 CENTRE HUB 1cBEARING BUSH 2

RI - 0121a BRASS BUSHING 2(-5-) I N T E R M E D I A T E S H A F T U N I T dCOLLET 2

RI - 0121b BALL LINK 15mm long 4eFINE PITCH THREADED NUT M8x1 2

RI - 0121c STUD BOLT M2,5x 25 2RI - 0506 GEAR WHEEL intermediate shaft 1fLOCKING WASHER 2

RI - 0136 CENTRE HUB BOLT M4x18 1RI - 0510 INTERMEDIATE SHAFT 1gO - RING 16x2.5 hard 2

RI - 0136a NUT - M4 flat 1RI - 0515 SPACER WASHER 10x 16x 0,5 4RI - 0824-2010 PINION for taildrive 1

RI - 0138 SHANKED BLADE BOLT 2RI - 0516 INTERMEDIATE SHAFT PINION 1RI - 0824a GRUB SCREW M4x 4 1

RI - 0138a NYLOC NUT - M4 2RI - 0517 SPACER WASHER set (10x16x0,2 / 0,3) PE RI - 0828 BEARING FLANGE assembly a-d

RI - 0138b SPACER FOR ROTORBLADES 4RI - 0518 ONE WAY DRIVE FLANGE assembly a-c aBEARING FLANGE 1

RI - 0140a FEATHERING SPINDLE SEESAW 1RI - 0518a ONE WAY DRIVE FLANGE 1bRADIAL BEARING 8x 16x 5 2

RI - 0140b FLANGED BEARING 8x 16x 5 2RI - 0518b ONE WAY DRIVE 10x 14x 12 1dHEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 6 2

RI - 0140c COUNTER SUNK SCREW M5x 8 2RI - 0518c RADIAL BEARING 10x 19x 5 2RI - 0830-2010 PINION SHAFT 1

RI - 0140d GRUB SCREW M4x 4 1RI - 0524-2010 CROWN GEAR 1RI - 0831-2010 CLUTCH 1

RI - 0525 HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 8 12 RI - 0831a CLUTCH INSERT 1

(-2-) H A S S I S RI - 0526 CROWN GEAR FLANGE 1RI - 0831b GRUB SCREW M4x 6 1

RI - 0527 GRUB SCREW M5x 5 2RI - 0833 TAIL BOOM DECAL 2

RI - 0201 UPPER CARBON SIDE FRAME 2

RI - 0202 BOTTOM CARBON SIDE FRAME 2

IRI - 0221 BEARING SUPPORT 1

IRI - 0222 BEARING SUPPORT 3(-6-) L I N K A G E & S E R V O M O U N T

IRI - 0223 RADIAL BEARING 10x 22x 6 4(-9-) T A I L G E A R B O X

II RI - 0232 TAIL BOOM HOLDER FRONT 1III RI - 0616 SWASH PLATE ANTI ROTATION GUIDE 1

II RI - 0233 TAIL BOOM HOLDER BACK 1III RI - 0616a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x12 2RI - 0900 TAIL GEAR HOUSING assembly a-b

II RI - 0236 CANOPY MOUNT 2III RI - 0616b WASHER M3 small 2IaTAIL GEAR HOUSING 1

II RI - 0237a STUD BOLT M3x 72 4IRI - 0630a BALL LINK 15mm long 2IbFLANGED BEARING 5x 13x 4 4

II RI - 0237b WASHER M3 large 6IRI - 0630b THREADED ROD M2,5 / 52mm 1II RI - 0902 BEVEL GEAR STEEL 1

II RI - 0237c NYLOC NUT M3 6IRI - 0630c PLASTIC SPACER BUSH 39mm 1II RI - 0902a GRUB SCREW M4x 4 1

III RI - 0238 STUD 6x 58 / M3 3IRI - 0630d BALL LINK / 19,5mm long 4I RI - 0903-2010 BEVEL GEAR PLASTIC 1

III RI - 0238a SILICON TUBE (for 0238) 3IRI - 0630e THREADED ROD M2,5 / 45mm 2IRI - 0904-2010 INPUT SHAFT 1

III RI - 0239 STUD 6x 62 / M3 3RI - 0631 CARBON TAIL PUSH ROD 807mm 1IRI - 0904a LENS HEAD SCREW M4x6 1

III RI - 0239a SILICON TUBE (for 0239) 3IV RI - 0632 BALL LINK / 19,5mm long 1IRI - 0904b WASHER M4 large / 1,2 thick 1

IV RI - 0241 SKID CLAMP 4IV RI - 0633 STUD BOLT M2,5x 25 2II RI - 0907-2010 SPACER BUSH 5x 6,5x 21,7mm 1

IV RI - 0242 SKID PLATE HOLDER 4IV RI - 0635 SCHRINKAGE TUBE for 0631 3II RI - 0907a SPACER WASHER 5x 10x 0,2 3

IV RI - 0243 SKID CAP 2IV RI - 0636 CLEVIS M2,5 1II RI - 0907b SPACER WASHER 5x 10x 0,1 1

IV RI - 0245 STUD 6x 62 / M4 2IRI - 0638 THREADED LINK BALL M2x5 / 3 long 3II RI - 0910-2010 TAIL OUTPUT SHAFT 1

IV RI - 0245a SILICON TUBE (for 0245) 2IRI - 0638a NUT M2 3IV RI - 0911 HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x6 - 10.9 2

IV RI - 0245b UNDER CARRIAGE STUDDING M4 x 20 4II RI - 0642 SERVO ATTACHMENT PLATE M2,5 4III RI - 0915a TAIL PITCH CONNECTING ROD 2

IV RI - 0246 PHILLIPS SCREW M3x8 4II RI - 0643 PHILLIPS SCREW M2,5x 12 16 III RI - 0915b PIN 2x8mm 2

IV RI - 0247 WASHER M3 large 8II RI - 0643a WASHER M2,5 16 III RI - 0916-2010 TAIL PITCH SLIDER assembly 1

IV RI - 0249 NYLOC NUT M3 4II RI - 0645a FOR & AFT SERVO SUPPORT 2IV RI - 0917 SPACER WASHER 3x 6x 1 2

RI - 0250 SENSOR BOTTOM PLATE 1II RI - 0645b SUPPORT FRAMING SQUARE 2IV RI - 0919 RADIAL BEARING 5x 10x 4 4

VRI - 0250a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x12 2II RI - 0645c LENS HEAD SCREW M3x 8 2IV RI - 0920 SPACER WASHER 5x 8 x 0,5 2

RI - 0252 CONTROLLER SUPPORTING PLATE 1II RI - 0645d HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x8 2IV RI - 0921 AXIAL BEARING 5x 10x 4 2

III RI - 0253 CANOPY MOUNTING BOLT FRONT 2II RI - 0645e WASHER M3 large 2IV RI - 0924

THREADED LINK BALL M3x 3 / 9mm

long 2

III RI - 0253a RUBBER END CAP 2II RI - 0646 TAIL SERVO SUPPORT 2IV RI - 0925 HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 18 2

III RI - 0253b STUD BOLT M3x 16 2II RI - 0646a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x10 2IV RI - 0925b PLASTIC SPACERS for tail blades 4

I2 / III6RI - 0254 DOME HEAD SCREW M3x 8 8II RI - 0646b WASHER M3 large 2IV RI - 0925c NYLOC NUT M3 2

IRI - 0255 HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x8 14 IV RI - 0927-2010 TAIL BLADE HOLDER 2

III RI - 0256 HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x10 6I RI - 0931 CLUTCH 1

I14/III8RI - 0257 WASHER M3 small 22 I RI - 0931a CLUTCH INSERT 1

III RI - 0263 NYLOC NUT M3 2I RI - 0931b GRUB SCREW M4x 4 1

(-7-) E N G I N E M O U N T IV RI - 0936 CENTRE HUB 1

(-3-) O T H E R P A R T S IV RI - 0936a GRUB SCREW M4x4 1

RI - 0706 PINION 13 tooth (opt. 14 T / 15 T / 16 T) 1VRI - 0937 SPECIAL BUSH for tail gear box fastening 1

RI - 0301 GLASS FIBRE CANOPY 1RI - 0706a GRUB SCREW M4x 4 (for 0706) 1VRI - 0937a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 16 1

RI - 0303 CANOPY DECAL - window 1RI - 0706b SPACER WASHER 1,0x 6x 12 1VRI - 0938 BELL CRANK MOUNT 1

RI - 0304 CANOPY DECAL - tail of a comet 1RI - 0706c SPACER WASHER 0,5x 6x 12 1VRI - 0938a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 22 1

RI - 0305 RUBBER GROMMET 2RI - 0706d SPACER WASHER 0,3x 6x 12 1RI - 0939 BELL CRANK assembly a-i

RI - 0306 SAFETY PIN 2RI - 0706e SPACER WASHER 0,2x 6x 12 2VI aBELL CRANK 1

RI - 0321 CARBON VERTICAL STABILIZER 1RI - 0706f SPACER WASHER 0,5x 8x 14 1VI bFLANGED BEARING 3x 7x 3 2

RI - 0333 TDR DECAL red 1RI - 0706g SPACER WASHER 0,5x 10x 16 1VI cSPACER 1

RI - 0334 TDR DECAL yellow opt. RI - 0716 MOTOR PLATE 1VI dTHREADED LINK BALL M2x4 / 3mm long 1

RI - 0339 SKID PLATE 2RI - 0716a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 12 4VI eSPACER WASHER 3x 6x 1 2

RI - 0340 SKID 2RI - 0716b WASHER BRASS thick 4VI fPLASTIC SLEEVE 1

RI - 0350 CABLE TIE 10 RI - 0717a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M4x 16 3VI gNUT M2 1

RI - 0355 SILICON EDGE PROTECTION 1RI - 0717b WASHER M4 small 3VI hCHEESE HEAD SCREW M2x5 1

RI - 0360 VELCRO for battery 2RI - 0720a COUNTER BEARING HOLDER 1VI iHEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x16 1

RI - 0394a SWASH PLATE GAUGE 12mm 1RI - 0720b RADIAL BEARING 6x 19x 6 1VRI - 0941a HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M3x 6 2

RI - 0394b SWASH PLATE GAUGE 6mm 1RI - 0720c HEXAGON SOCKET SCREW M4x 30 3VRI - 0941b WASHER M3 small 3

Technical Data and Equipment Recommendations:

Production and distribution: Henseleit Helicopters

Diameter main rotor up to 1620mm

Main rotor blades 680 - 720mm

Recommended main rotor blades 710mm / approx. 63mm deep/ 185g

Tail rotor blades up to 110mm carbon blades (recommended 105mm)

Weight ready to fly equipped without drive battery 3.1kg

Take-off weight according to used drive battery 4.0 – 4.9kg

Take-off weight with battery recommended by manufacturer 4.3kg

Length top of canopy to end of tail unit 1420mm

Total height 370mm

Maximum width of skids 200mm

Maximum width of canopy 140mm

Recommended engine Pyro 700-52 (standard shaft)

Recommended controller Jive 80+ HV or Jive 120+HV

Recommended speed reduction for 12s operation 12.36 : 1 (13 teeth pinion) or 11,47 : 1 (14 teeth pinion)

Recommended speed reduction for 10s operation 10,04 : 1 (16 teeth pinion) or 10.71 : 1 (15 teeth pinion)

Fixed, unchangeable speed reductions:

Transmission ratio main rotor to tail rotor 1 : 4,93

Speed reduction intermediate shaft to main rotor 2.55 : 1

Recommended main rotor speed: 1300 - 1900 rpm

V-max (during horizontal straight on flight) 185 km/h

V-max which we have got from a high altitude dive 250 km/h

Recommended RC installation (frequency) 2.4 Ghz

Servos: (high-quality strong and fast digital servos of standard size)

General information for the assembly

Before you start you should try to get an overview of the assembly by scrolling through the manual. It is recommended to

assemble the helicopter next to your computer. You can also print the manual.

Please start at the beginning of the manual and keep with the sequence of the assembly instructions. It makes no sense to

start in the middle of the manual. You can get easily stuck and lose track.

It is not sufficient to view only the images, because the text contains important instructions that have to be

considered in any case.

The assembly groups are packaged in 9 separate plastic bags. Each plastic bag is labelled with the name of the assembly

group. Bulky or long parts are packaged separately. Complex assembly groups with a great number of small parts are

separated into several smaller bags. These bags are consequently numbered. Bags containing parts which can be clearly

identified and not additionally labelled.

In every stage of the assembly please open only the bags you need. The bag’s label consists of two digits separated by a

hyphen (e. g. 2 - I). This is the bag I of the assembly group mechanics chassis (2). The first digit specifies the assembly

group and indicates the first digit of the order number of the parts of the assembly group (the order numbers of all parts of the

mechanics chassis start with 02..).

The Roman digit following the hyphen (e. g. – I) numbers the corresponding bag of the assembly group. The instructions

always tell you which bag you have to open at a certain moment. The parts of one bag generally belong together, so that you

keep an overview.

Please do not open all bags at once and do not pour them out. In the parts list on page 9 you can find all parts of the

helicopter classified according to assembly groups and with their order numbers in ascending order. In the first field you can

see the Roman digits, if they are used in certain assembly groups.

Attention! The drawings and 3D animations in the manual show a right-hand rotation MP. If you want to build a left-hand

rotation Rigid, you have to turn around the one-way drive shaft (for details see corresponding chapter).

In addition, the rotor head has to be assembled in a mirror-inverted way to the drawing in the manual and the tail rotor has to

be turned by 180° and then to be fixed to the tail boom. The blade holders have to be controlled from the correct side.

Some parts of the helicopter are already pre-assembled. Nevertheless, this manual contains detailed instructions for these

parts. These instructions may be helpful in case you have to disassemble or to change parts. There is no need for you to

check the pre-assembled parts or to disassemble or tighten them!

A t t e n t i o n ! Screws, which need to be tightened with Loctite are marked with a red “L”. Use the blue Loctite “medium

strength” or a similar product. Especially with the small grub screws do not use too much Loctite. Otherwise, you may have

problems unscrewing the grub screws.

It is not necessary to tighten all screws of the electric Helicopter with Loctite because they do not get loose depending on the

kind of stress. Especially the dome head screws can hardly be unscrewed if using Loctite because of their small hexagon.

In general, all grub screws and threaded link balls as well as the screws 0911 of the tail centre hub have to be degreased and

tightened with Loctite. The caphead screws allowing to attach the gears to their corresponding flange also have to be

tightened with Loctite because the plastics sets after a certain time and the screws may thus become loose.

A t t e n t i o n ! Parts, where you need to pay extra attention are marked with a red “!”. You will also find notes for these parts

in the text.

In case that some items do not fit, do not use excessive forces. Re-think why it may not fit together and see if a little

reworking might solve the problem. If you cannot solve the problem on your own, please contact me.

Before assembling the parts all edges around the carbon fibre reinforced plastic parts in the carbon fibre reinforced plastic

parts bag should be de-burred using a strip of flexible sandpaper to chamfer the sharp edges. It is recommended to de-burr

all the parts at once, so you have to wash your hands only once. Please do not let the carbon dust come into contact with

other parts of the mechanics or the ball bearing, as it would act like a grinding compound.

The helicopter consists of numerous screws and small parts. It may therefore occur, that a part is missing or that the screws

are not shaped correctly or that they are re ects. Unfortunately, we are not able to check every single screw. In these cases

please send us a short e-mail and we will immediately deliver the spare part. A small extra bag (Reserve Kleinteile)

containing some established replacement screws and ball links has been added to the kit. So some replacement parts are

available if a screw is missing or a part is defective.

All in all the assembly is not very demanding and does not require, besides some basic technical understanding, any special

skills. Please take your time and work diligently to avoid problems that later on might be more expensive and time-

consuming.

Now I wish you a lot of fun assembling the helicopter!

Chapter – I M a i n r o t o r ( Assembly Group 1 )

The swash plate driving fork 0100 has already been mounted by us. After having been inserted the stud was tightened in the

middle using Loctite where it can be seen through the clamping slot of the centre hub. If the fork breaks during a crash it is

recommended to cut one side of the fork using a pair of nippers to remove the the stud 0100a. Then the stud can be removed

using nippers by turning it.

Always replace the stud when changing the fork because it has been damaged by the nippers. During re-assembly the fork is

positioned first and then the stud is slid through the hole without using Loctite and aligned in the middle. Now a drop of Loctite

is applied to the middle of the stud using a needle (at the place where the clamping slot of the centre hub is located). In any

case do not apply any Loctite to the stud hole of the centre hub. Otherwise you press the Loctite into the hole of the fork

when inserting it and it gets stuck!

The feathering spindle seesaw 0140a has also been pre-mounted by us. For a possible later disassembly first unscrew the

two countersink screws 0140c and then remove the feathering spindle. Screw a slightly longer M5 screw from one side in one

of the M5 threads of the seesaw. You can push out the seesaw on the side with one of the flange bearings 0140b by slightly

hitting on the protruding screw head. The other bearing can be pushed out from inside using a mandrel. This can be

facilitated by slightly heating the centre hub.

First attach the blade holders to the corresponding bearings. Attention! To avoid mistakes proceed as described below. First

the two inner bearings 0113 showing towards the centre hub are pushed into the corresponding blade holders. It is

recommended to heat the blade holder slightly using a hot air gun. Make sure that the bearing rests rectangular and that it

does not tilt when assembling it. Now attach the thrust bearing from the fork side. First grease the ball cage thoroughly (add

tenacious grease in the hollow side of the sheet cage). Mind the correct order as shown in the drawing. To attach the single

rings in the hole, they have to be inserted at the side and crosswisely into the fork and then they have to be tilted in the

turned recess. Make sure that the rings do not turn by 180° when sliding into the blade holder hole. The corresponding

chamfer must point to the ball cage. It is recommended to insert a thinner stud into the bearing ring hole and to push it into

the blade holder to prevent the rings from turning.

First insert the ring having an inner diameter of 8.2mm into the blade holder. Then attach the ball cage with the hollow side

turned to the 8.2mm ring and at last add the ring with the inner diameter of 8mm. The spacer washer 0111 (0.2x 8x 14) and

then the second radial bearing 0113 are inserted.

Attention! To prevent the second radial bearing from tilting proceed as described below. Provisionally push the feathering

spindle 0110 through the already mounted bearing in the blade holder. Slide the remaining bearing in the fork at the side and

push it onto the end of the feathering spindle. Tighten one of the black M5 screws loosely in the thread of the feathering

spindle and pull the bearing into the hole of the blade holder using the feathering spindle end looking out at the back. It is also

recommended to heat the blade holder slightly.

Due to this measure the bearing cannot tilt or am, because it is aligned to the longitudinal axis of the blade holder by the

feathering spindle. Then remove the feathering spindle and assemble the second blade holder in the same way.

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