KAMWELD PLASTICS Welding Equipment Manuale

Kamweld The Best in Plastic Welding

The Original

PLASTIC WELDERS

Made in the U.S.A.

Kamweld The Best in Plastic Welding

3.08

Operating and Maintenance Instructions for

KAMWELD PLASTICS

Welding Equipment

REV. 022608

OPERATING & MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS

for

KAMWELD PLASTICS WELDING EQUIPMENT

Table of Contents Page

Types of Kamweld Plastic Welders 3

Welding Temperatures 3

Parts of a Welder 3

Kamweld Plastics Welders Models 4

How to Set Up a Welder 5

Temperature Chart 6

How to Disconnect the Welder 6

How to Change Heating Elements 6

How to Disassemble the Handle 6

Tack Welding 7

Hand Welding 7-9

High-Speed Welding 10

High-Speed Plasticized Strip Welding 11

Warranty 12

Other Kamweld Products 13-14

120 Volts AC

Compressed Air or Inert Gas

Air Hose

Air Cooled Handle

Cold Air

Spanner Nut

Stainless Steel Heating Element

Welding Rod

Heating Chamber

Direction

Preheat for Base Material

Welding Tip or Tool

Threaded Nozzle

Hot Air

Inner Barrel

Outer Barrel

TYPES OF KAMWELD PLASTIC WELDERS:

There are two basic types of Kamweld plastic welders. The

rst operates on standard compressed air supply, available

in most shops, or on bottled inert gas. Models 41-HT, 42-TM,

43-HS and 44-A-W use compressed air. The second type

of welder is self-contained with a built-in air compressor.

Models 46-RW and 47-RW are self-contained units. Inert gas

CANNOT BE USED. These portable units are for use in the

eld or in the shops, both indoors and outdoors.

WELDING TEMPERATURE:

Most thermoplastics are weldable between 572ºF and 752ºF

(300 ºC and 400 ºC) when hand welding, using the models

such as KR and KRL or hi-speed welding, using tips such as

the KS-1-8 or KS-2C. The temperature is closely controlled by

selecting the proper heating element and by changing the

amount of air or inert gas by ow.

Most thermoplastic materials such as PVC (Polyvinyl Chlo-

ride), PE (Polyethylene), PP (Polypropylene), PS (Polystyrene),

Acrylics, some blends of ABS (Acrylic-Butadiene, Styrene), PC

(Polycarbonates) and others can be welded. In welding PE

(Polyethylene) an inert gas (such as dry Nitrogen or Argon)

MUST be used. In most cases, it is not practical to weld mate-

rials any thinner than 1/8” thick, because of heat distortion.

In some cases, materials as thin as 1/18” can be welded if

supported underneath the joint while welding. Doing so will

prevent heat distortion.

MODEL 41-HT: The Job Welder

This model is used for tack or hand welding with round tips

at speeds of approximately 12” (305 mm) per minute. It is

ideally suited for back welding of pipe, short radii or hard-to-

reach areas. It operates on shop air or insert gas.

MODEL 42-TM: Trainer & Maintenance Welder Kit

This plastics welding kit is a low cost, ecient and portable

unit that contains a 41-HT welder, tips, welder stand and rug-

ged carrying case. It’s ideal for training as well as for fabricat-

ing, maintenance and back welding of pipe. It operates on

shop air or inert gas.

MODEL 43-HS: The High-Speed Production Welder

A heavy-duty welder for medium and high-speed welding of

thermoplastics with speeds up to 60” (1,524 mm) per minute,

depending on the diameter of the rod. The standard

stainless-steel heating element is rated at 600 watts. It oper-

ates on shop air or insert gas.

MODEL 44-AW: The All-purpose Welder

Model 44-AW has a double segment heating element. The

rotary switch activates the 300 watt segment only at LOW set-

ting, the 400 watt segment at the MEDIUM setting, and both

segments at the HIGH setting (700 watts). When changing

from one setting to another, the air or gas pressure must be

adjusted slightly according to the chart BEFORE the switch is

turned. It operates on shop air or inert gas.

MODELS 46-RW & 47-RW: The Self-Contained Welder

Both the 46-RW and the 47-RW models have a built-in air

compressor. An inert gas supply CANNOT be connected.

Both models have a selector valve which oers low to high

heat. Operating instructions are mounted inside the case.

HOW TO SET UP A WELDER:

1. Close valve on air-pressure regulator by pulling upward

on the plastic knob until a clicking sound is heard, and

then proceeding to turn the knob counter clockwise This

will prevent possible damage to the gauge from a sudden

surge of excessive air pressure.

2. Connect the regulator to a supply of either compressed air

(which should be free of oil or moisture) or inert gas. The

Kamweld air-pressure regulator is rated for 200 lbs. (90.72

kg) of line pressure. If inert gas is used, a pressure reduc-

ing is needed (obtainable from a gas supplier).

3. Turn the air supply on. The starting air pressure for each

model is indicated in the chart on the next page. Please

note that the heated air temperature depends on the

wattage of the heating element AND the air pressure. The

operating air pressure requires slightly less air. The chart

shows the approximate temperatures obtainable with 120

volt AC supply:

Caution: if the round spanner nut (which holds the barrel to the

handle) becomes too warm to the touch, the gun is overheating. If

this occurs, increase the air pressure immediately, according to the

instructions in the right column. By increasing the air pressure, the

air temperature decreases.

4. Connect the welder to a common 120 volt AC outlet. A

three-prong grounded plug is supplied with each unit and

MUST be used.

5. Allow the welder to warm up at the recommended

STARTING pressure according to the temperature chart on

the following page. It is essential that either air or inert gas

ows through the welder at all times, (from warming up to

cooling o), to prevent burn-out of the heating element

and/or further damage to the gun. AT NO TIME SHOULD

THE ELECTRICITY BE CONNECTED WITHOUT AIR FLOW-

ING THROUGH THE GUN.

6. Select the proper welding tip and install it into the thread-

ed outer barrel with pliers to avoid touching the tip and

barrel while they are hot. After the tip has been installed,

the temperature will increase slightly due to back pressure.

Allow two to three minutes for the tip or outer barrel to

reach the required operating temperature.

7. If you nd the temperature is too high to weld the mate-

rial you are working with, increase the air pressure slightly

until the temperature decreases. If the temperature is too

low for your application, decrease the air pressure slightly

until the temperature rises. When increasing or decreasing

the air pressure, allow at least two or three minutes for the

temperature to stabilize at the new setting. Damage to the

welder or heating element will not occur from too much air

pressure: however, the element can become overheated

by too little air pressure. When decreasing the air pressure

from the recommended starting pressure, never allow the

spanner nut to become too hot to the touch. This is an

indication of overheating. Maximum operating tempera-

ture with the minimum air pressure is obtained when the

spanner nut is only slightly warm to the touch. A partial

clogging of the dirt screen in the regulator or a uctuation

in the line voltage can also cause over or under heating.

8. If the threads at the end of the barrel become tight, clean

them with a 9/16”-18 tap. Occasional application of high

temperature grease on the threads (both at the outlet end

of the barrel and on the spanner nut) will prevent seizing

and keep threads free.

HOW TO DISCONNECT THE WELDER:

When welding is completed, disconnect the electricity and

allow the air to ow through the welder for about four to ve

minutes or until the barrel becomes cool enough to touch.

HOW TO CHANGE HEATING ELEMENTS:

Push the end of the barrel against a solid object (such as the

side of a bench). Hold the handle tightly and push inward.

The pressure on the barrel compresses the element spring,

Use the spanner wrench to loosen the spanner nut. Keep the

pressure on the handle and back o the nut all the way by

hand. Hold the barrel and place the complete welder on a

at surface. Remove the barrel and gently pull the element

out of the handle. Grasp the socket at the end of the wire

tightly and jiggle or rock the element while pulling until the

element is completely dislodged from the socket. To reinstall

the element, reverse the above procedure. Turn the element

clockwise (about 1 ½ turns) while pushing the wire gently

back into the handle. This prevents kinking of the wire dur-

ring reinstallation. To reinstall the barrel, reverse the above

procedure.

HOW TO DISASSEMBLE THE HANDLE:

To remove the plastic grip from the handle, remove the

screw at the end of the grip. Slide the grip back over the

hose. Hold the handle rmly and grasp the tail piece and

hose. Use a slight twisting motion while pulling back until it

becomes free. Then the wire and socket can be completely

removed. To reassemble, reverse the above procedure, mak-

ing sure to line up the screw holes in the tail piece and the

handle.

41-HT

43-HS

44-AW

46-RW

47-RW

350 w 2.5 lbs. 6 min. 2 lbs. 600 °F (316 °C)

450 w 3.5 lbs. 6 min. 2.5 lbs. 675 °F (357 °C)

600 w 3 lbs. 6 min. 2.5 lbs. 725 °F (385 °C)

750 w 3.55 lbs. 6 min. 3 lbs. 850 °F (454 °C)

900 w 4 lbs. 7 min. 3 lbs. 900 °F (482 °C)

LOW 300 w 3 lbs. 6 min. 2.5 lbs. 575 °F (301 °C)

MED 400 w 4 lbs. 6 min. 2.5 lbs. 650 °F (343 °C)

HIGH 700 w 4.5 lbs. 6 min. 3 lbs. 825 °F (441 °C)

350 w Pre-Set 5 min. High Setting 650 °F (343 °C)

600 w Pre-Set 5 min. High Setting 800 °F (426 °C)

Cartridge Type

Element Watts

Starting Air Pressure

(Approx.)

Warm-Up Time

(Approx.)

Operating Pressure

(Minimum)

Maximum Air Temp.

Without Tip Installed

(Approx.)

KAMWELD

WelderModel

WELDING OPERATIONS:

There are three basic types of plastics welding with hot-air:

Tack Welding, Hand Welding and High-Speed Welding.

TACK WELDING

Tack welding is a shallow fusion of the mating surfaces of

the material. It possesses little tensile strength. It holds the

pieces together until the regular bead is welded. Tack weld-

ing eliminates the need for clamps, jigs and additional

manpower.

For practice welding, prepare the material as follows:

1. Take two pieces of 1/8” thick PVC sheets, each about 2”

wide by 6” long. Bevel one of the long edges of each piece

to about 30º for a total included angle of 60º. Do not

bevel to a feathered edge.

2. Remove all dust and chips. Do not use a solvent. This will

soften the material and result in a poor weld.

3. Clamp one of the beveled pieces at on a work bench with

the bevel pointed upward. Place the other pieces so that

the beveled edges face each other. Install the tacker tip.

Hold the welder upright at an angle of about 80º perpen-

dicular to the surface of the material.

4. Hold the loose PVC piece rmly against the clamped piece.

Touch the point of the tacker tip quickly but rmly along

the mating surfaces, making short (½” to ¾”) tacks at inter-

vals of about 1 ½ to 2” along the joint.

5. Then draw the point of the tacker tip along the entire

joint, fusing the edges together. This operation must be

performed quickly. Hesitation at any point can result in

charred spots that must be removed before further

welding. The two pieces are now fused together with

sucient strength for handling.

HAND WELDING

Hand welding can provide very high tensile strength, if

properly accomplished. It is recommended for welding

corners, short runs and small radii. It also provides the begin-

ner with a chance to determine the correct balance of heat

and pressure required to produce a good weld.

1. Install the round tip and allow for warm-up time. Hold the

welder in one hand and weld rod in the other hand.

2. Preheat the base material at the start of the weld by fan-

ning the heat about ½” from the material’s surface.

3. Hold the rod, which has been precut at a 60º angle, per-

pendicular to the joint of the material, and slightly above

the preheated point, with the face of the 60º cut toward

the direction of the weld.

4. Direct the heat to the beveled surface of the material and

the bottom and front surfaces of the rod. Continue the

fanning motion of the tip. Make sure that the air stream is

directed straight to the joint of the rod and beveled area.

When the rod and the base material become shiny and

“tacky”, touch the rod material. They will stick together.

5. Now lean the rod forward in the direction of the weld.

Push the rod down so that the rst part will adhere and not

“skid”. Maintain enough pressure on the rod so that the

softened end of the rod presses into the softened surface

of the material.

Flow lines (see Figure 3a) will appear on sides of the rod.

A small wave of softened material, consisting of fused rod

and base material, will ow in the bevel in front of the rod,

if the pressure is being evenly and constantly applied.

6. Now lean the rod back at a slight angle, away from the

direction of the weld, causing the rod to bend just above

the point where it is owing into the bevel. Maintain the

fanning motion with the welder tip and enough pressure

on the rod while proceeding with the weld.

Generally speaking, the base material will take more

heat than the rod, although the distribution of the heat

necessary can be determined by observation. If the tip is

not kept in motion or if it is held too close, browning or

charring will occur, resulting in an unsatisfactory weld. If

the tip is held too far away or at an incorrect angle, an

uneven weld will occur. If the rod is pushed too hard into

the base material, it will stretch, resulting in a at, highly

stressed weld, which will break if an additional weld is laid

over or abutting it or if it is subjected to routine environ-

mental stress.

Figure 3a. Good and Bad Flow Lines

Figure 3b. Good and Bad Welds

7. The weld can be stopped at any time by merely removing

the heat from the weld area. The weld may be continued

from that point with the same rod, or an entirely new start

can be made, using the procedure above.

Figure 4. Types of Welds

8. When the weld is completed, cut the rod o close to the

base material with a knife or a pair of cutting pliers.

Inside Corner Welds

Outside Corner Welds

Double “V” Butt Welds

Edge Welds

Single “V” Butt Welds

Corner and Fillet Welds

Welds join and overlap over bevel

Good root pass has good penetration

Poor root pass , no penetration, cold weld

Note lacking in overlap in bevel.

Poor root pass , no penetration, cold weld

Burned root pass and material

Triangular

Round

HIGH-SPEED WELDING

The principle of high-speed welding incorporates the

basic methods utilized in hand welding with specially

designed and patented tools. Here too, the requirements

for constant heat and pressure must be fullled. The

accelerated rate of speed in high-speed welding is

possible because both the rod and the base material are

preheated before they reach the fusion point. A round

or triangular rod is preheated in a tube, while the base

material is preheated by the hot air stream from a vent

in the underside of the welding tip.

The necessary pressure is no longer provided by holding

the rod in the hand. Instead, a shoe on the end of the

tool furnishes the necessary pressure and, at the same

time, smooths out the rod for uniform appearance and

higher tensile strength. Gentle pressure on the rod

results in better control of the weld.

The conventional hand welding method now becomes a

faster and more uniform operation. Once started, the rod is

fed automatically into the preheating tube by the motion of

the welder being pulled along the joint. The Kamweld high-

speed tools automatically give constant balance of heat and

pressure.

Welding Positions:

Start of Weld

Actual Welding

End of Weld

Figure 5. High-Speed Welding with round or

triangular rod.

1. Select and install the proper size high-speed tip for the ap-

propriate size welding rod. Allow for warm-up time.

2. Grasp the welder rmly and hold it in an upright posi-

tion, with the point of the high-speed tip approximately

½” above base material, directly over the starting point of

the weld. Insert the rod into the welding tube and hold it

there until the base

material turns shiny and starts to soften.

3. Push the rod down until it sticks to the base material.

4. Continue exerting downward pressure on the rod, which

will then bend and lower the shoe to the rod. The shoe of

the tip will rest on top of the exposed part of the rod (see

Figure 5, illustration 1).

123

Welding Positions:

Start of Weld

Actual Welding

End of Weld

Indice

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