Mountain Models Eva Manuale utente
Eva
Extremely Versatile Airframe
Eva Specifications
Length: 32”
Weight (without battery): ~12oz.
Revision History
Date Revision Notes/Comments
6/3/05 Document initial creation.
Thank you for purchasing the Eva. This plane is an aileron/elevator/rudder (full house)
setup, designed for the intermediate to advanced pilot who wants a plane with
outstanding performance. Due to the number of wing options, the Eva can be flown as a
mild sport flyer, a pattern plane, or a 3D plane. You can quickly and easily swap out
wings.
Sincerely, Mountain Models
Doug Binder 465 D Street
www.mountainmodels.com
Phone: 719.372.6727
2
Before You Begin
Before you begin building your Eva make sure you read and understand all of the
instructions thoroughly.
Additionally, you will need to have the following items. Check to make sure that all of
your parts are there and in good shape, and review a couple quick building tips to make
this whole process go quicker and easier.
What You Will Need
•Smooth and flat work surface
•Wax paper to protect the plans
•Thin and thick Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue
•Quick set epoxy
•Hobby knife with #11 blades
•Needle nose pliers
•Wire cutters
•Sanding block with 200 grit sandpaper
•Covering material
•Sealing iron for applying the covering
•4 channel radio minimum
•GWS EPS350C-C or Brushless Motor
•2 aileron servos (we recommend either the Hitec HS55s or the GWS Picos)
•2 tail servos (we recommend either the Hitec HS55s or the GWS Picos)
•Electronic Speed Control (ESC) suitable for your motor
•8 cell 650 mAH NiMH pack (for Brushed Motor)
•3 cell 1200-1500 mAH LiPoly pack (for Brushless Motor)
Parts List
Number
in Kit Description of Part
Loose Wood Plastic, and Carbon
2 1/4” x 1/4” x 18”Balsa triangle stock
1 1/4” x 1/4” x 4”Balsa triangle stock
1 5” x 3/16” hardwood dowel for elevator
1 0.23” x15” carbon spar tube
2 10.5” Yellow Pushrod Tubing
Metal
2 .025” x 18” ” thin music wire for rudder and elevator pushrods
1 .032” x 18” ” thin music wire for the tail wheel and pushrods
1 Aluminum Landing Gear
Plastic
1 Plastic Canopy
1 Plastic Nose Cowl
3
Number
in Kit Description of Part
Bagged Parts
5 4-40 T Nuts
5 4-40 x 3/8” Phillips Head Bolts
7 #4 Washers
2 LYT43 wheels drilled out to 1/8”
1 1/2" tail wheel
2 4-40 x 1” bolts for wheel axles
4 4-40 Lock Nuts
1 #2 x 3/8” wood screw for motor retainer
1 6” Velcro strip for mounting the battery and receiver
1 6” double-sided Velcro strip for battery strap
2 Neodymium canopy hold down magnet
2 6” heat shrink tubing
1 ¾” x 1” Tyvek strip to retain tail wheel wire
1 3-32” Allen wrench
General Building Tips
•Balsa is a lightweight and fragile wood, so you do need to be careful with it;
however, you will also need to use a little bit of force to make everything fit
properly, so don’t be too timid.
•Join all of your pieces using thin CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue, unless we tell you
otherwise. In general, only a small amount of CA is necessary to glue parts
together.
•Don’t remove any pieces from the balsa sheets until they’re ready to be used.
That way, parts won’t get mixed up or disappear.
•After you remove pieces from the balsa sheets, carefully remove any of the extra
material from where the piece was attached.
•Don’t over force your pieces together. If they aren’t going together properly,
make sure you have the right pieces and that they are oriented correctly.
•If you want to remove the charred edges caused by the laser cutting process,
dampen a cloth with bleach and gently rub the affected areas. Removing the
char will not increase the strength but will make it look better.
Assembly Instructions
Experienced builders may notice that this building order
goes against the normal building conventions. We have found that fewer pieces get
mangled this way, since you are building the stronger pieces first. For example, the tail
feathers are at the end of the build process instead of the beginning, so that they are
less likely to get underfoot or under cat (which seems to be a recurring problem) and
are being built right before they are attached to the fuselage and each other.
4
Assembling the Fuselage
To remove the pieces, gently flex the balsa sheets until the pieces fall out.
You may find that you need to carefully trim the extra pieces of wood that
originally held the piece to the sheet.
1. Press the T nuts into the front former and the landing gear mount. You will need to
hammer the T nuts fully in.
2. Place the second and third formers into the fuselage bottom, along with the landing
gear mount and the two 1/16 ply former doublers. Ensure that the formers are
perpendicular to the bottom sheet. Glue with thick CA or, preferably, epoxy to
withstand the landing loads.
3. Position the rest of the bulkheads on to the fuselage bottom. Ensure the bulkheads
are well seated and perpendicular to the bottom sheet and glue with thin CA.
5
4. Position the fuselage sides but don’t glue. Tack the fuselage sides to the fuselage
bottom by placing a small drop of glue on the joint between the side and the bottom
between each bulkhead. Don’t get any glue on the bulkheads.
5. Add the 1/16” balsa fuselage side doublers. The fat halves of the doublers go towards
the rear of the fuselage. The tops of the front half of the doublers are flush with the
top of the fuselage sides. Glue the doublers to the fuselage sides and the fuselage
sides to the bulkheads and bottom sheet. Glue the rear of the fuselage sides together.
6. Slide the 18” x ¼” balsa triangle stock under the fuselage formers. The stock will end
1/8” behind the front of the fuselage. Glue the stock to the fuselage sides and bottom
along the entire length of the stock.
7. Position and glue the rear crutch to the fuselage.
6
8. Glue the two pushrod guide tubes into position. They should extend just past the
forth bulkhead from the rear and just clear the opening in the rear of the fuselage.
9. The top of the turtledeck is made from two pieces of 1/16” balsa glued together to
make a “T”. Glue the “T” to the rear formers.
10. Position and glue a 1/32” spacer strip on the fuselage doubler then glue a 1/32” balsa
turtledeck side to the spacer.
7
11. Wet the 1/32” balsa turtledeck side to make it bend better and glue the top of the
1/32” balsa to the “T” you just installed.
12. Install the other 1/32” balsa turtledeck. Sand the 1/32” balsa that extends past the
“T” so that it is flush with the top of the “T”.
8
13. Glue the 1/16” turtledeck top to the “T” then sand it round.
14. Carefully align the 1/16” ply wing spar reinforcements to the sides of the fuselage.
15. Attach the front crutch to the firewall then install both parts into the fuselage. Note
that the T nuts are on the same side as the crutch.
9
16. Cut two pieces of triangle stock to 1.75” and glue as shown to reinforce the firewall.
17. Glue the four 1/8” balsa rear turtledeck blocks.
18. Sand the blocks to shape.
10
19. Sand the fuselage smooth. Round the bottom edges of the fuselage. You will sand
deep into the triangle stock to give the bottom a rounded shape. Note where the
stock ends so that you don’t sand the rear of the fuselage too much. The front of the
fuselage needs to be rounded quite a bit so that the nose cowl will fit. Use the nose
cowl as a guide to see when you have sanded enough.
20. Glue the 1/16” ply tailwheel wire support to the bottom rear of the fuselage so that
the hole is just past the rear of the fuselage.
21. Glue the canopy magnet shelf into place.
Indice
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