Periodic Surf Mini Mal Guida all'installazione
SURFBOARD ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
- The Egg
- Classic Fish
- Mini Mal
- Long Board
Periodic Surf Co
Any questions or queries? Send Jordan a message at
The following instruction manual is a general
assembly guide. Please refer to our website and
youtube channel for specific video instructions.
Website: www.diysurfboardkits.com
Youtube: www.youtube.com/user/JordsWoodShop
need to know
(frame kit terminology)
Terminology
*see below diagram for parts breakdown*
Spines - There are two kinds of spines, the centre spine and side spines. These are
labelled C for centre, and S for sides.
Ribs - These index into the spine pieces. They are numbered from 1 upwards, with 1
starting at the tail. The number of ribs change depending on the type of board.
Rails - These index into the side of the rib pieces. They are labelled R for rails, with R1
closer to the tail and R2 closer to the nose.
Support Material - These are small pieces used to strengthen the spine joints. Labelled
C for centre spine, and S for side spine.
Ribs
Spines
Rails
Support Material
need to know
(materials and tools required)
Tools Required
Materials Required
*see below images for specific materials breakdown*
- Polyurethane Glue
- Nitro Glycerine Gloves
- Super Glue and Activator
- Masking Tape
- Water Spray Bottle
Note: the materials listed above are what we are using in this demonstration, other equivalent materials
can be used. Remember to check the contents before using to ensure that are suitable for the task.
Optional: Ratchet Straps and anything else that can be used for clamping
pressure (bricks, water jugs, etc).
Important: PPE is your responsibility. Always work safely!
- Spring & F Clamps
- Rasp
- Sand Paper
- Drill
- Saw (jigsaw or hand saw)
- Router (pattern bit)
- Weights (for clamping)
- Block Plane
we are using Titebond
Polyurethane Liquid Glue
we are using Black Shield
Powder Free Nitrate Gloves
we are using Scotch Masking
Tape (blue or green)
we are using ZAP Super
Glue and Activator
The surfboard creation process includes fiberglassing and using resin. If you are not
confident in these practices we recommend thoroughly researching these steps before
attempting them. Alternatively, seek an outside professionals assistance for these steps.
Pre-Assembly
Step 1: glue and reinforce the spines
There are three separate spines in our kits - the centre spine and the two side spines. They are
labelled C for centre and S for sides. The spine support material is needed also, they are
labelled corresponding to the joints they will be reinforcing.
Apply glue to the spine joints (C-1 / C-2 / S-1 / S-2) and spread it evenly using your finger.
Attach corresponding joints together (C-1 to C-1, C-2 to C-2 etc).
Apply glue to the corresponding support pieces and place them on either side of the joint.
Clamp and set aside to dry.
REPEAT with all the remaining spine joints (centre and sides).
These are the parts needed:
You will also need glue and clamps. Remember to wear gloves.
2x Side Spines
1x Centre Spine Support Material
Glue Attach Glue
Place Clamp
Pre-Assembly
Step 2: glue and assemble the rails
There are two sets of rails - these define the outline of the board. They are labelled R for rail.
The rails do not require any support material and can be installed on either side of the board.
Apply glue to the first joint (R-1).
Attach R-1 to R-1 and then hold in place using masking tape over the joint on either side.
REPEAT with second joint (R-2) (if applicable).
REPEAT for the second rail.
Set aside to dry.
These are the parts needed:
You will also need glue and masking tape. Remember to wear gloves.
2x Rails
Glue Attach
Tape Repeat
Assembly
Step 3: kit assembly
Depending on the board you're building there will be between 8 and 11 ribs. The rib with the
lowest number is installed at the tail, while the highest number is installed at the nose.
Starting with a rib near the middle of the board, apply glue to the slots and faces of the rib.
Insert the rib into the corresponding slots on the spines. (1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 etc).
REPEAT for all remaining ribs.
The Egg: 8 ribs
The Fish: 8 ribs
Mini Mal: 10 ribs
Long Board: 11 ribs
These are the new parts needed:
You will also need your glued up
spines and rails.
Clamps may be required.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure all ribs are indexed into the spines flush with no ridge, clamps
may be necessary to keep them from popping up. Your glue up should be performed on a flat
surface to minimise the risk of twist. Check the board periodically and alter where necessary.
Glue Glue Insert
Insert Check
Assembly
Step 4: more kit assembly
After allowing your ribs to dry. Take your rails and test fit them on your frame kit without
glue. This is called a dry fitment.
If there are any tight spots, rectify by sanding them down.
Apply glue to each hole on the rails.
Starting at the centre, press the rail onto the frame working your way along the board.
Ensure each joint is indexed by pressing firmly. Clamp if necessary.
Set entire kit aside to dry.
You will now need your glued up rails.
There are two ways you can clamp your ribs to your spines, if it's needed.
Glue Index
Check
The Skins
Step 5: deck blank glue up
OPTIONAL: Edge joint the Paulownia pieces. This will further ensure the join between
them is perfect with no gaps.
Lay out two Paulownia boards on a flat surface so that the joins are together.
Tape the pieces together across the joint so the edges are held tightly. This can be done
with a piece of tape every 300mm (add one down the centre of the skins to help reduce
squeeze out).
With the joint taped, carefully flip the skins over and form an 'A' shape.
Apply glue down the seam.
Lay the skins flat and apply additional tape across the seam to hold it firmly together.
REPEAT for the top deck.
Allow both decks to fully dry.
ALTERNATIVE: Use panel clamps if available.
This step is assuming you are using our Paulownia skins which have been machined to the
perfect size already. If you are using your own wood, you will need to have it machined to
6mm thick and to the length and width to suit your board.
Edge Joint Tape 'A' Shape
Glue Lay Flat Tape
The Skins
Step 6: template, trim, cut deck
Cut out the supplied paper template.
Using template as reference lay your frame on top of the template.
Looking at the tail, take the rails and bend them over to the centre spine (to follow the
outline on the template.
Mark where the rails should meet the spine and trim accordingly.
Using glue or tape hold the rails in place to form your profile (we used super glue).
REPEAT for the nose. (Note: The template is just a guide, get creative with your board).
Cut template Join (if necessary) Check profile
Mark and Trim Glue Set
Trace or outline the board shape on your glued skins.
Cut around the outline (use a hand saw or jig saw).
REPEAT with both decks.
Trace Outline Cut
Deck Lamination
Step 7: bottom deck lamination
Lay your cut out deck on a hard and flat surface.
Place a small amount of glue on all contact areas of your frame kit (rails, ribs, spines).
Place your glued frame on top of your laid out deck.
Clamp all the way around the edge.
Using a long reach clamp or an equivalent, clamp one rib at a time so there is no gap
between the bottom of the rib and the deck. This will form your concave deck.
Using super glue and quick set activator, apply glue to the clamped area and spray with
activator. Once super glue sets, remove clamp and repeat until all ribs are making solid
contact with the deck.
Note: We recommend doing a dry assembly of your bottom deck to iron out your exact
clamping and gluing method. You can use clamps, bricks, straps or anything you have on
hand at the time.
Important: Using a polyurethane glue you will have roughly 20 minutes of working time
before it begins to harden. Gluing the ribs should be done quickly.
Place Clamp Edges
Clamp Concave
Gap = Bad
No Gap = Good
Instant Glue
Glue
Optionally, use a rocker table to assist in laminating your deck skins to form more rocker
line. Refer to the build page on the DIY Surfboard Kits website.
Questo manuale è adatto per i seguenti modelli
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