Predator NX Gas Manuale utente

Predator NX

Gas

& Gas SE

Gas Gas SE



MAIN BLADES 710mm 700mm



MAIN ROTOR SPAN 62.2 in 61.4 in



TAIL ROTOR SPAN 10.5 in 11.2 in



OVERALL LENGTH 56.9 in 56.9 in



HEIGHT 18 in 18 in



ENGINE Z231H Z260H

Century Helicopter Products

Designed and Developed in USA

SPECIFICATIONS

Instruction

Manual

Building Instructions for the Predator Gas eCCPM helicopter kits.

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of Century Helicopter Product’s newest RC helicopter model.

The Predator Gas eCCPM is an excellent addition to Century’s Predator model helicopter line.

The two stroke gasoline Predator is well suited for all ying levels and lowers fuel costs while

extending into markets where the glow engines cannot compete. Compared to other 60 class

models, pilots will be elated to nd the Predator Gas is easy to build. This kit will exceed your

expectations for precision control at an aordable price.

In order to take advantage of the Predator’s performance capabilities we recommend using a high

quality computer radio system with 120 degree eCCPM mixing. The radio system should have

at least 8 channels to use modern heading lock gyros and throttle governors. The radio should

also have a minimum of 5 programmable points on both throttle and pitch curves. Servos used

should be a matched set of 3 for the collective system, be of quality coreless, ball bearing and

having a minimum torque rating of 70 oz/in. The tail rotor servo should have a servo speed of

0.11sec/60 degrees or better.

Warning

This radio controlled model is not a toy! It is a precision machine requiring proper assembly

and setup to avoid accidents. It is the responsibility of the owner to operate this product in a

safe manner as it can inict serious injury otherwise. It is recommended that if you are in doubt

of your abilities, seek assistance from experienced radio control modelers and associations. As

manufacturer, we assume no liability for the use of this product.

Pre-assembly Information

Upon opening the kit, all the major component parts are bagged by relationship to the dierent

sections of the helicopter. Various assemblies have been pre-assembled only requiring the nal

assembly. The particular parts, screws and nuts required for each step are packaged in the same

bag as the parts. Be careful when opening each bag as not to lose any hardware. As a reminder,

all metal to metal screw assemblies require L242 Blue thread lock compound, all metal to plastic

screw assemblies require slow setting cyanoacrylate adhesive (Slow CA) and all bearing race to

metal shafts should use L262 Red threadlock compound.

Care has been taken in lling and packing of each bag however mistakes do happen, if there is

a parts shortage or missing hardware please contact us at:

Century Helicopter Products

1740 Unit C Junction Ave.

San Jose, CA 95112

Tel: 1-408-451-1155

www.centuryheli.com

Helicopter Building Safety

Upon opening the helicopter kit, various components

have been pre-assembled to allow the builder to progress

quickly through the construction process. Ultimately, it

is your responsibility to check and verify that all compo-

nents are installed and setup to operate properly.

This manual has been written for both the Predator Gas, CN1303 & Predator Gas SE, CN1304 se-

ries of helicopter kits. The manual follows a step by step approach to building the helicopter with highlight

labeling for components that are included in the Gas SE only.

Every attempt has been made to ease the assembly of your kit, at each step where there are complex as-

semblies you can read the detailed written instructions to walk you through each step. Remember to take a

few minutes before each step to carefully examine the step in order to become familiar with the parts and

assembly sequence before beginning that step.

Predator Gas & Gas SE Construction Manual

Part#CN2015 Hardened Tip Hex Screw Driver Set

Part#CN2026 Pitch Gauge with Paddle Gauge

Part#CN2034A 150 Curve Tip Ball link Pliers

Part#CN2052 Main Blade Balancer

Part#CN2293 Fan Hub Puller

Part#CN2055 Ball Link Sizing Tool

Part#CN2070 Universal Flybar Lock

Part#CN2219 Ball Link Easy Driver

Part#CN2255 Control Rod Guage

Part#CNWI26555 5.5mm Nut Driver

Strap Wrenches

Torque Wrench

Screwdrivers - Slotted and Phillips head.

Long-Nosed Pliers.

Allen Wrenches - 1.5 to 5.0mm

Appropriate Socket Wrench - Spark Plug

Hobby Scissors

Double Sided Foam Tape ( 1/16” - 3/32” )

Foam Rubber ( radio packing )

JB Weld ( bond clutch lining )

Locktight 260 Green, 242 Removeable

& 262 Permanent

Hobby Grease ( Super Lube )

Oil to lubricate sliding shafts (Triow)

Tygon Fuel Line 1/8” ID - Z231 (3 feet)

Tygon Fuel Line 3/32” ID -Z260 (3 feet)

Recommended Tools & Accessories

The tools and materials listed below are

the minimum needed to build the helicopter:

In addition, the following will make assembly and setup

easier, and prove useful later in your model toolbox:

Symbols used to help assist you in building the kit:

Apply

oil

Apply

threadlock

Special At-

tention

Full Scale

Drawing

Repeat Steps

as specied

Apply JB

Weld

Partially

tighten

Purchased

Separately

Apply

Grease

Cut away

Shaded Por-

tion

Helpful

Tip

Hardware Description and Identication: M3x6 = 3x6mm and can refer to screws or ball bearings.

M3x6 Phillips Machine Screw

M - metric

3 - diameter

6 - length

M3x6 Self Tapping Screw

M - metric

3 - diameter

6 - length

M3x10 Socket Cap Screw

M - metric

3 - diameter

6 - length

3x7 Ball Bearing

M - metric

3 - inside

6 - outside

Remove oil

residue from

fasteners before applying

any threadlock agent.

Tap holes with

machine screws

before installing steel

balls in plastic.

Tap holes with

machine screws

before installing self tap

screws in plastic.

Tap holes with

machine screws

carefully in plastic holes

with bottoms.

Apply

CA glue

#HI6160A

Rotor Head Block

& M2.5x8 Socket Screw x 2

The entire rotor head comes pre-assembled

with the standard HI6181A (red) head dampers

installed. 3D and aerobatic pilots should disas-

semble the rotorhead and install the hard HI6181B

(black) head dampers. Press in the head dampers

into the rotor head block. Lubricate the inside

surface of each damper with light oil. Leave the

M2.5 screws loose.

M3 Threaded Stud

Bond the M3 threaded stud into the head button using

L262 Red threadlock then apply more threadlock to the

exposed threads and thread into the top of the rotor head

block. Remove any extra threadlock compound.

Insert one ball bearing into each bear-

ing cup and insert into the offset plate.

Apply one small drop of slow cyano-

acrylate glue (Slow CA) to the joint

between the backside of the bearing

cup and the offset plate. Insert one

ball bearing into each tie bar, using

an available M3 socket cap screw

form threads into both ends of the tie

bars. Insert one M3x6 button head

screw through the right side hole of

the offset plate (see photo) and thread

into one tie bar. Make two identical

sub-assemblies. Note that the bear-

ing cups face outwards from the head

block. Insert one M3x15 button head

screw through the tie bar bearing, slide

one steel spacer and carefully apply

L242 Blue threadlock to the exposed

threads and insert into the right side

of the head block. Do not overtighten.

Repeat for the second sub-assembly.

Once complete apply a small amout

of slow cyanoacrylate glue and insert

one HI6167 special long thread ball

into each offset plate to complete the

assembly.

#HI3167B Off-

set Plates x 2

#HI3167F

Bearing Cups x 2

#HI3167G

Tie Bars &

Spacers

#CNBB37

M3x7 Ball

Bearing x 2

#CNBB48

M4x8 Ball

Bearing x 2

#HI6167

Special Ball x 2

Steel Ball on Left side.

M3x15 Button

Head Screw

#HW6001

M3x6 Button

Head Screw x 2

Step 1 Rotor Head Block

#HI6181B

Head Dampers

Hard (Black) x 2

3D Flying

#HI6181A

Head Dampers Stan-

dard (Red) x 2

Sport & Scale Flying

Step 2 Seesaw Assembly Completed rotor head.

Bond bearing cup

holder to metal

offset plate.

Step 3 Head Button - Gas SE

#CN2215A

Machined Head

Button

Gas SE only

#HI6189

Bell Mixing

Arm

#HW6001

M3x18 Special

Shoulder Bolt

#CNBB37F

M3x7 Flange Ball

Bearing x 2

#CNLR1014

Short Ball

#CNLR1020

Medium Ball

Press one M3x7 anged ball bearing into

one side followed by one M3x5 spacer and

another anged bearing from the opposite

side. If the bearing is tight, lightly sand the

bell mixer and use L262 Red threadlock

to bond the bearing in place. Install the

CNLR1014 short steel ball into the single

hole side of the bell mixer and install the

CNLR1020 medium steel ball using L242

Blue threadlock. Install the medium steel

ball according to the table to suit your y-

ing preference. Use the center hole for sport

ying. Make two assemblies.

Step 4 Bell Mixer

Press one M8x16 ball bearing into both ends of

each main rotor blade grip. Slide one M14 thrust

washer against the bearing closest to the main

rotor blade. Make sure that the bearing and the

thrust washer are properly seated into the deep

end of the blade grip. If necessary use a socket

that matches the outside diameter of the bearing

and press into position. Make two assemblies.

1:1.6 3D

1:1.3 3D & Sport

1:1 Sport & FAI

Bell Mixer Ratios

#HI6184A

Main Blade

Grip

#CNBB816

M8x16 Ball

Bearing

#HW6183

M14 Thrust

Washer

M3x18 Special Socket

Shoulder Screw

#HW6001

#CNLR1014

Short Ball

Step 5 Main Blade Grip

Bell Mixer

Assembly

#HW6205

M3x5x3

Spacer

Step 6 Main Blade Grip Assembly

Using an available M3 screw, care-

fully form the threads in the blade

grip arm. Slide the M3x18 special

socket shoulder screw through the

bell mixer arm from the at side, add

one M3x5x3 spacer and apply a drop

of Slow Cyanoacrylate glue or Epoxy

glue to the end of the threads before

installing into the blade grip. Tighten

the bolt until there is no end to end

movement, but do not overtighten

the bolt as you can strip out the hole.

Make two assemblies.

Slow cyanoacrylate

or Epoxy glue

Blade Grip assembly

from Step 5

#HW6205

M3x5x3 Steel

Spacer x 2

#CNLR1020

Medium Ball

Remove one damper and press the feathering spindle to seat the ball near the center of the rotor hub. Reposition the rubber

damper in the rotor hub and slide one large shim against the damper followed by three regular stiffness shims and one blade

grip assembly onto the feathering spindle. The bell mixer and pitch arm of the blade grip is mounted on the leading edge

when as the head rotates clockwise. Install the M7x15 thrust bearing and lubricate the bearings with light grease. Looking at

the two steel races of the thrust bearing, note that the innermost surfaces have different widths because the inside diameters

are different. Slide the rst larger diameter steel washer (thin race, larger ID) followed by the greased ball race, followed by

the second steel washer (thick race, smaller ID). Remove any grease that may have transfered to the threads using a cotton

swab dipped in alcohol. Apply L242 Blue threadlock to the inside threads on the feathering spindle using a pin and install

the M5x10 socket cap screw with washer. Do not overtighten this bolt because it will air the end of the spindle making

removal of the blade grip nearly impossible. Repeat for the other blade grip.

Step 7 Feathering Spindle & Blade Grip

#HW6182

Stiffness

Shims

#HW6180A

Feathering

Spindle

Large

#HW6180A M5x10

Socket Screw & M5

Flat Washer

thin

race

(inside)

larger ID

thick race

(outside)

smaller ID

#CNBB715T

M7x15 Thrust

Ball Bearing

Hobby Grease

Generally, grease

is needed for thrust

bearings and the tail

rotor gears. A light

Lithium or Silicon

grease should be

used, commonly

found at hobbyshops

for RC cars.

Step 8 Flybar Control Yoke

PushrodA is already assembled but check that the length is

actually 47mm (center to center). As the pushrods are build

and installed they should be checked for tightness. Press

one ball link onto each double studded steel ball, making

sure that pressure is applied from the side of the ball link

with circle mark. While holding one ybar control arm, ap-

ply a small amount of slow cyanoacrylate glue and thread

one end of the double studded steel ball into each standoff.

When it becomes difcult to turn with ngers, apply slow

CA to the threads and start screwing in the tapered control

arm stand-off on the other end of the ball.

M3x12 Button

Cap Screw

#HI3176C

Flybar Con-

trol Arm

#HW3176C Double

Studded Steel Ball

Pushrod A 47mm

(center to center)

#HI6145 Ball Link x 2

#HW6192 25mm Pushrod x 2

#CNLR1006

M4x6 Micro Washer

M4x5 Set

Screw

#HI3176C

Tapered

Standoff

Ball Link Direction

All ball links are molded to be installed in only one

direction. Look carefully at the hole for the ball,

one side is clean while the other side has a circular

mark, 1mm larger than the hole. The marked side

presses over the steel control balls.

Circle Mark

presses over

steel ball.

Round Recess

on Top

A correctly installed the ball link should rotate with

some resistance when the metal pushrod is rotated in

your ngers. If the ball link to too tight the preferred

solution is to purchase Century’s ball link sizing tool

[CN2055] to custom t each ball link to its steel ball.

Step 9 Flybar & Flybar Paddles

Slide and center the ybar through the head assembly. Carefully look at the ybar control arm assemblies from the previous

step and notice that when installed correctly, the securing set screw is on top. Insert one M4x6x0.5 micro washer #CNLR1006

against each bearing then slide the control arm halves onto each side, so that they match together and the set screw remains on

top. Insert one M3x12 button head socket screw to secure the opposite standoff, hold the tapered standoff using pliers while

tightening the screw (to avoid the double studded ball from stripping the plastic threads in the center). Loosely tighten the

M4x5 set screws into the round aluminum inserts aligned with the at spots on the ybar. Using a ruler, check the distance

between the end of the ybar and the control arm and adjust until the lengths are the same. Tighten both set screws, one at

a time using L242 Blue threadlock. Make a pencil mark 5mm past the threads on both ends of the ybar. Thread the ybar

paddles onto the ybar until the mark is reached, align the paddles parallel. Again using the ruler, rotate one paddle or the

other to get equal distances, remember leading edge of the paddles turn clockwise.

Set the length of pushrod B to 26mm (center to center) and attach to the ball on the adjustable side of the bell mixer and to

the steel ball on the lower seesaw assembly. Check the ball links for proper t, adjusting if necessary and remember that the

bell mixer is positioned on the leading edge as the rotor head rotates clockwise.

Pushrod B

26mm (center to center)

#HI6145 Short Ball Link x 2

#HW6192 14mm Pushrod x 2

Note: Bell Mixer

positioned on

leading edge

as head rotates

clockwise.

#HW6173 Flybar 520mm

*packed with tailboom.

M4x5 Set

Screw

M3x12 Button

Head Screw

HI6179B 30gr Sport Black Gas

#HI6009A Cooling Fan

M3x6 Flat Head

Screws x 4

Step 10 Cooling Fan

The cooling fan hub and fan comes assembled but

requires nal assembly. Remove each of the M3x6 at

head screws one at a time, apply L242 Blue threadlock

and tighten back into the cooling fan hub.

If a governor is planned to be installed, install magnets

into the holes provided in the bottom of the cooling

fan. A similar hole has been made in the cooling fan

shroud mount plate to mount the sensor on the right

side (mufer side) of the engine.

#HW6012HDV2

Cooling Fan

Hub

Holes for installing

governor magnets.

Step 11 Gas Engine Preparation

Remove and keep the four M4x14 Phillips head screws

to remove the pull start unit from the factory mount

plate. Similarly remove the factory pull start plate and

also keep the M5x14 at head screws. The screw will

be reused to mount the engine and pull start unit to

the helicopter.

Care must be taken in removing the M5 at head screws

from the engine because they are very tight. Use the

T-handle Phillips screwdriver tool that is included with

the engine, as this it the correct size.

Step 12 Landing Gear Frame

Align the engine crankcase to the land-

ing gear frame and carefully route the

red coil wire above the coil without

putting a strain on the wire. Insert three

M5x15 countersunk Phillips screws

using L242 Blue threadlock. On some

helicopters, the clutch will sit slightly

below the bottom of the clutchbell. If

needed, insert three shims between the

engine and the landing gear frame.

#HW6117B

Landing Gear

Frame

M5x14 Coun-

tersunk Phillips

Screws x 3

(with engine)

#HW6117B

Landing Gear

Frame

M4x6 Socket Cap

Screw x 2 M4x10 Socket

Cap Screw x 2

M4x6x4

Spacer x 4

Step 13

Removeable Pull Start

Mount & Hardware - Gas SE

Install the spacers onto the M4 socket

bolts. Install two M4x6 socket bolts

with spacers to the rearmost holes us-

ing L242 Blue threadlock. These only

hold the plate while starting, do not

overtighen. Install the M4x10 socket

bolts with spacers to the forwardmost

holes using threadlock. Using the

original M4x14 Phillips bolts, insert

the screws through the removable plate

with the larger end of the keyholes in

the counter clockwise direction. Mate

the pull start unit from the other side

with the handle down and rearward and

secure with four M4 locknuts. This will

position the handle on the carburetor

side with space to pull freely.

M4x6 Socket

Cap Screw

& Spacer x 2

(shorter)

M4x10 Socket

Cap Screw &

Spacer x 2 (lon-

ger)

M4x14 Phillips

Machine Screws &

M4 Locknuts x 4

Observe

correct

direction!

Gas SE only HW6118A

Removeable Pull Start Plate &

M4 Locknut x 4

#HW6207

M6x13x0.2 Shims x 4

Step 14 Removeable Pull Start Plate

Note that the pull start handle should be on the carburetor side. Align

the pull start plate keyholes to the bolts on the bottom plate, press

towards the engine and once the two plates are ush, rotate the pull

starter unit clockwise until it stops. Removal is just the opposite.

When choosing to use the removeable plate, the starter unit must

be removed prior to ying the model, as it could easily fall during

ight off from vibration.

M4 Locknuts x 4

Handle is mounted

on carburetor side.

Gas SE only

Step 15 Fixed Pull Start Unit

Look carefully at the bottom plate as there are four M4

threaded holes to the immediate right edge of each oval

slot. These are to permanently attach the pull start unit

to the bottom plate. Position the pull start unit to have

the handle point rearward when the handle is mounted

on the carburetor side of the engine. This will allow the

handle to be pulled without interference with the land-

ing struts. Attach using four M4x14 Phillips machine

screws using L242 Blue threadlock.

M4x14 Phillips

Machine Screws x 4

(with engine)

Step 16b Cooling Fan Shroud Mount Plate

Lay the cooling fan shroud mount plate onto the face of the

engine with the straight edge towards the cylinder head and

the access hole on the mufer side. Install four M5x8 socket

cap screws to secure the plate using L242 Blue threadlock.

Do not overtighten these bolts as they thread into the front

half of the aluminum cast engine crankcase. Dip a cloth in

rubbing alcohol and degrease the threads in the end of the

engine crankshaft. Apply liquid oil to the outside taper of

the engine crankshaft, the entire taper should be coated. Do

not get oil into the internal threads. Use Triow or equiva-

lent oil.

#HW6118

Cooling

Shroud

Mount Plate

M5x8 Socket Cap

Screws x 4

Access hole for

optional governor

Sensor

Degrease crankshaft

threads.

Carburetor Mount

A greater danger is the potential to generate sufcient RF

(radio) noise to cause radio gitching and in certain circum-

stances will force a PCM reciever into radio lock out, com-

monly resulting in a crash.

Overtightening the fan hub in the next step can

cause these screw heads to interfer with the fan,

these can be shortened if necessary.

Step 16a Engine Stabilization System

CN2300

Increases rigidity of the main frame of all

Predator Gassers to enable you to perform

hard maneuvers with more ease. Install

as shown in these photos. You will need

to dremel the fan shroud where the E.S.S.

mounts.

Step 17 Engine Cooling Fan

Slide the cooling fan assembly onto the engine. Locate

the M6x15 socket cap screw and M6x13 at washer

and thoroughly clean these parts to remove any oil

residue. Install the fan assembly onto the crankshaft.

Slide the washer onto the M6x15 socket cap screw

install through the center of the fan hub. Using a strap-

wrench wrapped around the outside of the cooling fan,

tighten the M6x15 socket cap screw until hand tight

and check the runout of the fan assembly. Acceptable

runout is 0.002”, if more, remove the fan assembly

and install again. Once satised, remove the M6x15

socket cap screw, apply L242 Blue thread lock and

secure in place.

M6x15 Socket Cap

Bolt & M6x13 Flat

Washer

5.0mm Hex

Key required

#HI6009A Cool-

ing Fan

#HW6012HDV2

Fan Hub

#HI6020A Fi-

berglass Cool-

ing Shroud

M2.5x8 Socket

Cap Screws x 3

Step 18 Cooling Fan Shroud

Slide the fan shroud over the cooling fan and secure

using three M2.5x8 socket cap screws using L242

Blue threadlock. Tighten these until they stop and

that’s it, do not torque these bolts!

If you plan to install a governor, it is best to fabricate

the mount for the sensor at this time, get it tted and

set the sensor gap before the fan shroud is installed.

#HW6011HD

Clutch Shoe

M4x6

Button Head

Screws x 4

Step 19 Clutch Assembly

Apply light oil to the Torrington bearing in the center of the clutch shoe. Be

sure that no grease contacts the edge of the clutch or it could get transfered to

the clutchbell. Slide the clutch shoe onto the fan hub, press down and install

four M3x6 button head screws using L242 Blue threadlock.

Apply a few drops

of light oil on the

Torrington bearing.

Take the time now to make sure that the clutch shoe is properly

seated on the fan assembly by looking at it from the side and

making sure there is no vertical movement as you slowly turn

over the engine. Experience modelers can dial indicate the

clutch, the acceptable amount of runout is 0.002”

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