3
Suggestion of tools that maybe required and general kit assembly
Preparation
Before any parts are cut from the etched frets, push through any rivet holes from the back of the
fret. These are represented by half etched holes on the rear of the fret. The same also applies to
pre-formed loco.
Forming the Etched Parts
When forming the etches, unless otherwise instructed, the fold lines are on the inside. A pair of
bending bars are ideal for this job or a vice, (without serrated jaws), would suffice.
Soldering
The key word for a successfully soldered joint is cleanliness. If the parts to be joined together are
clean metal surfaces and are well coated in a good flux and providing the soldering iron tip has
sufficient heat, a perfect joint which is also very strong will result.
A good strong joint can be achieved with glues but it is not easy to rework. A soldered joint can be
easily undone, altered, corrected etc. by just re applying some flux and heat from the soldering
iron. The flux transfers the heat from the tip to the metal surfaces to be joined and stops
oxidization at the joint. I allow the multi-core solder to stay molten on the joint and, when the iron
is taken away, will cool to form a solid metal joint.
When undertaking any kind of soldering always hold the parts to be joined together securely and
comfortably. You will learn with experience how long to hold the iron on and in turn how much
pain your fingers can endure. The use of small clamps such as hair clips, mini G clamps, (not
rubber bands!), a small vice, various pliers etc. will make life easier. A simple jig soldered together
out of scrap metal or made from wood may also help for holding parts you find awkward to hold.
You can use the various temperature range solders to your advantage during building. Multi-core
for larger pieces will give you the main structure. A solder called Carrs 145 or 177 solder is used
to apply the finer etches and laminates. Finally white metal solder, Carrs 70 Red Label, is used to
fix the castings on.
Remember to take care not to apply too much heat near laminates or casting you have already
joined as you may disturb them.
Cleaning Up
When assembly is finished, all excess solder should be cleaned from the model. Files, small wire
brushes, fibre pens and Wet & Dry paper are all useful aids when performing this task.
On your model there are joints between etches and castings that may require some filling. Car
body fillers such as Isopon are ideal, (avoid flexible/elastic fillers). When any solder or filler has
been cleaned up the body should be washed in warm soapy water to remove any grease or flux
that would prevent paint from adhering. Some washing up liquids leave a film on models, so it is
recommended that Cillit Bang is used as a second wash. This removes all films, grease etc.
Plastic window boxes sold in the big DIY stores make an ideal size container for washing your
models.
Rinse the model in clean water and leave to dry naturally over night.
