Stevens Aero Model MicroHawk Manuale utente

microHawk

Capacitor Power – Free Flight –Motor Glider

Wing Span: 18 inches | Wing Area: 45 square inches | Average Flying Weight: 27 grams

Build Instructions - Version 1.12 (revised 10.11.2016)

WARRANTY

Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date

of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modication. In no case

shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel

reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

LIABILITY RELEASE

In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the nal assembly or material used for nal assembly, no

liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from use by the user. By the act of using the

user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised

to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

THIS PRODUCT IS NOT INTENDED FOR CHILDREN 12 YEARS OF AGE OR YOUNGER.

WARNING: This product may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and or birth

defects or other reproductive harm.

PRODUCT SUPPORT

This product has been engineered to function properly and perform as advertised, with the suggested power

system and supporting electronics as outlined within this product manual. Product support cannot be

provided, nor can Stevens AeroModel assist in determining the suitability or use of electronics, hardware, or

power systems not explicitly recommended by Stevens AeroModel.

For product assembly support, replacement parts, hardware, and electronics to complete this model, please

contact Stevens AeroModel at www.stevensaero.com.

Stevens AeroModel

26405 Judge Orr Rd. Colorado Springs, CO 80808 USA

719-387-4187 www.stevensaero.com

Wood Bundle

☐Illustrated build instruction manual

☐Laser-cut wood, 4 sheets

☐1 Carbon ber tail boom (5 in. length)

Hardware Bag

☐1 Plywood F3 fuselage joiner

☐1 Length of heat-shrink tubing, 3/8 in. diameter

☐Modeling clay, ballast, 12 grams

Introduction

The Stevens AeroModel microHawktm is a simple, all-sheet, entry level motor glider – designed to be powered by

popular 8.5 mm coreless motors and a 10 farad capacitor“fuel” system. When properly assembled and ight

trimmed, a single charge from a 3 volt source provides exciting powered ights of up to one minute in duration.

Kit Inventory

Required Electronics for Powered Flight

Available directly from stevensaero.com

☐10F Capacitor-Power Kit (SAP-CP/PK01)

☐Battery and motor connector (SAUMEXT/3)

☐Coreless motor (recovered from (PKZ3616 or PKZ3624)

☐Propeller, GWS HD 2.5 x 0.8 or GWS HD 2.5 x 1.0

☐3.7V 160mAh LiPo battery with suitable charger

Thank you for purchasing The microHawk Capacitor-Power Motor Glider from Stevens AeroModel. This model

has been developed and manufactured using state-of-the-art CAD/CAM systems. Our kits feature a unique

interlocking construction process, that when compared to traditional building methods, saves countless hours of

measuring, cutting, sanding, and tting. Also included in this kit are building xtures which will aid in assembly,

their construction and use will be described in the step by step build instructions. We are certain that you’ll nd

our kits to oﬀer a truly exceptional build experience.

IMPORTANT!

Please READ and REREAD these build instructions along with any other included documentation before starting

your build and/or contacting our staﬀfor builder support.

Pre-Sanding (Optional)

Before removing any parts from the laser-cut sheet wood, use a sanding block loaded with 250 - 400 grit

sandpaper and lightly sand the back side of each wood sheet. This step removes any residue produced as a

result of the laser cutting process. This step also slightly reduces the thickness of each sheet of wood. We have

found that most stock wood sizes run several thousandths of an inch oversized. Leave all parts in the sheet

wood until required for assembly.

Protecting Your Work Surface

Use the poly tube that this kit was packed in to protect your work surface from the glues used during assembly

of the model.

Bonding the Assembly

This product’s tabs and notches interlock like a 3D puzzle. We strongly suggest that when tting parts, you dry

t (use no glue) the parts together rst. It is advised to work 1 - 2 steps ahead in the instructions, using this dry-

t technique. This allows the opportunity to inspect the t and location of assembled components, and shows

the benets of our construction technique. Once you arrive at the end of a major assembly sequence, square

your work on a at work surface or by using the included assembly xtures and bond the dry t joints with glue.

Using the dry-t process, you’ll be able to recover from a minor build mistake and will ultimately end up with a

square and true assembly.

When using CA, apply glue with a ne-tip CA glue applicator. Unless otherwise noted in the instructions, we nd

it easier to“tack glue”parts (temporarily bonding parts in assemblies, using a small dot of glue).

When using wood glue, apply a small amount of glue to the surfaces to be bonded. After assembly, pin your

parts into place and allow them to dry throughly.

Sanding

Do not sand the individual parts of this model. This kit is precision cut to assemble with the correct angles and

incidences to ensure proper ight performance. If desired the laser burn may be removed after assembly.

Never Force the Fit!

This is a precision laser-cut kit. Our lasers cut to within 5 thousandths of an inch in accuracy. Yet the wood stock

supplied to us by the mill may vary in thickness by up to 20 thousandths. This variance in the wood stock may

cause some tabs and notches to t very tightly. With this in mind, consider lightly sanding or lightly pinching a

tight-tting tab, rather than forcing the parts together. You will break fewer parts in assembly, and end up with a

square and true airframe.

General Assembly Instructions

Required Tools and Supplies

Flat work surface - Table top or building board, make sure the building surface is warp free

Glue - Medium Cyanoacrylate CA (super glue)* or Aliphatic Resin (wood glue)*

*Cyanoacrylate Glue (CA) also known as super glue, is a quick setting glue that bonds in seconds. Please use caution

with this type of glue. If this is the rst time using CA, we recommended that you keep nger tips away from glue joints

while assembling the model, CA can bond skin instantly. The use of a precision glue tip provides the most control of

glue application. When using CA to assemble this model tack glue assemblies rst, after the parts are joined revisit all

joints with a second application of glue. CA glue and glue tips are available from stevensaero.com. Follow all

manufacturers instructions for use.

*Aliphatic Resin also known as wood glue under the brand names, Titebond or Elmer’s etc., are also a good choice. This

type of glue takes much longer to cure. We recommend pining the parts together after assembly, allow ample time for

the glue to setup. Aliphatic resin is not an instant glue so be prepared to take some time with the assembly of the

model. Follow all manufacturers instructions for use.

Soldering equipment - 20W soldering iron and resin core solder are required to assemble the capacitor-power

parts kit and to install battery and motor connectors based upon your chosen equipment.

Optional Tools and Supplies

Our microHawk model, as delivered, can be assembled entirely without the aid of hobby knifes, pins, or

abrasives, making it ideal for use in instructional environments. As such the following items are, in-fact, optional

and suited for progressing builders, craftsman, and serious competitors.

Hobby knife - X-acto®or Excel style hobby knife with supply of #11 blades

Sanding block - Loaded with 250 - 400 grit sand paper (sanding blocks are available at stevensaero.com)

Straight pins - Secure parts to building board and each other while glue dries

Masking tape - Low-tack blue painters’ tape

Building board - Soft at work surface that will accept straight pins (balsa building boards are available at your

local hobby shop, or make one using a piece of drop ceiling tile).

Hobby clamp or clothes pins - Used to hold parts together while glue dries

Clear lacquer - Protects the nished model from moisture without adding signicantly to the models nal ying

weight. Use only one light coat. We recommend DEFT brand clear-lacquer in a spray can, available at most

hardware or home improvement stores.

Design Master Color Tool - If desired add a little color to the model. Use color sparingly, i.e., on a wing tip or the

tail planes. Paint adds weight and can eﬀect the performance of the nished model, available at most arts and

crafts stores.

General Assembly Instructions

Assembly

Wing Assembly. The center wing section builds using an integrated jig assembly developed by Stevens

AeroModel. This build method ensures consistency in build and greatly simplies the assembly process. When

removing the W1 wing center section from the parts sheet, be careful not to remove the“frame”that

encompasses the right and left of the wing center section. Wing parts are designated with the letter “W”

followed by a number. Parts have been numbered sequentially. The wing build order includes parts W1, W2,

and W3.

1. Locate the wing center section (sheet 02/04, 1/16 in. balsa). Remove the part marked with a W1–

lay it on your work surface with the etch marks facing up. If desired you may pin or tape W1 to the

work surface. Note: There are two 1/4 inch diameter holes near the center section trailing edge

the side opposite the holes will become the leading edge.

2. Locate the two wing tip angle jigs numbered W2 (sheet 03/04, 1/16 in. balsa). Fit parts W2 within

the notches provided at right and left sides of the integrated center section wing jig. Bond parts

W2 with a small drop of medium CA glue to retain.

3. Locate wing parts numbered W3 (sheet 01/04, 1/20 in. balsa) wing tips. Use the interlocking tabs

and notches that resemble one-half of a “zipper” to place the W3 wing tips against the mating half

of the “zipper” at right and left side of W1 wing panel. Ensure that the leading and trailing edges

are correct and the wing tip panels are fully seated both within the slot and bottoming out

against your at work surface. The correct dihedral angle for the W3 wing tips will be set by parts

W2 as the wing tip will rest against W2 and within the slots at right and left of the W1 wing center

section.

4. Have a look at the photo for“Step 5” and note the future removal of the integrated jig from wing

center section. With this information in mind proceed to bond the wing tips to the wing center

section being careful not to bond any of the removable jig parts to the wing assembly. Use only

enough glue to retain the parts in their current position as you’ll have a chance in “Step 5”to more

thoroughly bond the wing tips after removal of the integrated jig.

If using CA, bond parts together by placing spots of glue at each toothed area of the“zipper”

along both top and bottom of wing panel to“tack glue”the assembly together. If using wood

glue, lightly coat the top/middle section of the “zipper” surfaces to be bonded then assemble,

allow ample time for the glue to dry. It may help to pin these parts into place to keep them

aligned while the glue dries.

5. Once the glue has cured remove the integrated jig from the completed wing panel by simply

snapping the two tabs oﬀthe jig at the leading edge of the wing and exing the jig down and

away from the center section of the completed wing trailing edge. Discard the jig.

With the integrated jig removed from the wing center section, now is an excellent time to re-visit

the “zipper” joint with additional glue to ensure it’s thoroughly bonded. If using CA, wick glue

within each cavity between the teeth of the“zipper” at both top and bottom of the wing assembly.

If using wood glue, apply a thin bead of glue along the joint at both top and bottom of the wing

assembly then level (smear) it into the joint with a nger.

Build Instructions

□

Build Instructions

Step 1

Step 2

Step 2 Cont.

Step 3 Step 5

Step 4 Cont.

Step 4

Step 3 Cont.

discard jig

Glue along “zipper”.

completed wing

integrated jig

wing center section

Do not glue where edge of jig meets W3.

Glue along “zipper”.

Bottom View

Do not glue at

circled areas.

Assembly (continued)

6. Assemble the fuselage over a at surface with the left side up.Begin by bonding the nose skid F2

within the main fuselage body F1 (sheet 04/04, 3/32 in. basswood).Place the 1/32plywood part

F3 (from hardware bag) on the left side rear of the main fuselage body – matching the edges of F3

to that of F1.

7. Carefully match the balsa forward fuselage doublers F4 and F5 (sheet 03/04, 1/16 in. balsa) to the

left and right sides, of the F1 main fuselage body – use a slow setting glue to allow adequate

working time to accurately position these parts.

If using wood glue (instead of CA), lightly coat the surfaces to be bonded then assemble.Allow

ample time for the glue to dry.Note: It may be helpful to pin these parts into place – keeping

them aligned while the glue dries.

8. Bond a 5 in. length of square carbon ber stock within the“pocket” created by part F1 and F3 at

the rear of the fuselage assembly.Accurately align the carbon tail boom so that it does not skew

right or left of the fuselage centerline.

9. Locate the stabilizer parts H1 and V1 (sheet 03/04, 1/16 in. balsa).With the etching on H1 facing

up, key the tab on V1 down through the pocket cut within H1.This pocket is slightly oﬀset to the

right of centerline within the H1 assembly – oﬀsetting V1 right.Align these parts perpendicular to

each other and bond.Note:The leading edge of H1 is straight while the trailing edge of both V1

and H1 are curved.

10. Place the stabilizer assembly on top of the carbon tail boom, so that the bottom surface of H1

rests at on top of the carbon boom, and so that the back edge of V1 nishes (but does not

overhang) theend of the boom.Note:The photo illustration depicts this assembly as viewed

from the underside of the fuselage.The tab on V1 should overhang the fuselage boom on the

right side of the assembly.Ensure that this assembly is bonded square to the fuselage.

11. Bond the lower n V2 (sheet 03/04, 1/16 in. balsa) along the underside of the carbon tail boom

resting against the tab on V1.

12. Finish the microHawk airframe by bonding the wing assembly on top of the fuselage, passing the

tabs on the fuselage wing saddle through the corresponding notches within the wing.Note: Use

a slow setting glue to allow you to properly square the wing to the fuselage sides and stabilizer

assembly.With the wing in position, add the F6 motor mount (sheet 04/04, 3/32 in. basswood) as

indicated in the photo.Finally, add a bit of left rudder trim by gently bending the rear of V1 left

until it centers on top of the carbon tail boom – bond the tip of V1 in this position to retain the left

oﬀset which will later produce the necessary left-hand power and glide pattern.

Optional:!If desired, sand the model to remove the laser burn from the model.!You may

also paint the model with clear-lacquer to protect it from moisture, or spray a little color on

the model to make it uniquely yours.!

Build Instructions

□

Build Instructions

Step 10

Step 8

Step 7

Bottom View

Left

(placed on left

side of fuselage

matching edges

of F3 with F1)

Step 8 Cont.

nest carbon tail boom within

pocket created by F1 and F3

F3 opposite side

carbon tail boom

5 in. length

Step 6 Step 9

Step 11

Step 12

back

perpendicular

tab on V1

left

right

Bottom View

Gently bend V1 rudder

left to center on carbon

boom - bond with CA in

this position.

Assemble the Capacitor-Power Module

The assembly details given within this manual apply to the 10F size Capacitor-Power partskit SAP-CP/PK01

available directly from stevensaero.com.

1. Purchase the 10F Capacitor-Power parts kit from stevensaero.com you’ll need to provide a

suitable motor and battery connector set based upon those required to t of your coreless motor

and charge battery.We used a micro battery extension cable part SAUMEXT/3 that is compatible

with the recommended 160 mAh 3.7V charge battery.

2. Install the capacitor.Position the PC Board (PCB) so that the“stevensaero.com” text faces up.

Pass the positive and negative wires of the 10F capacitor through the board as illustrated.Note:

The 10F capacitor is extremely sensitive to reversed polarity and will typically have a stripe

running down the body of the capacitor to identify the negative lead.The wire closest to the

stripe is negative and is typically shorter than the positive lead wire.Do not reverse the polarity

of the capacitor within the assembly as this will destroy the capacitor. Once installed

properly, with the PCB ush on top of the capacitor, solder the capacitor to the board and trim the

excess wire leads.

3. Install the resistor.Bend the wire leads perpendicular to the resistor and place through the top

of the PCB as illustrated.Solder and trim the excess wire as in the previous step.

4. Battery and motor connector.In this example we used a simple 3 inch micro battery cable

extension from stevensaero.com (SAUMEXT/3).Cut this part into two pieces – leaving 2 inches for

the battery side and 1 inch on what will become our motor-side connector.Note:In practice this

is a workable arrangement.However, depending upon the connector supplied with your micro

motor, you may nd the electrical connectivity through the motor connector to be quite poor – I

prefer to direct solder my motor to the capacitor assembly.

5. Solder the motor and battery connector to the PCB using the terminal designations for battery

(Bat) and motor (Mot) given in photo “Capacitor 3”as a reference.

6. Assemble the motor. We used an 8.5 mm coreless motor recovered from a damaged ultra-micro

model (PKZ3624). This motor is delivered in a gearbox and must be removed from the gearbox

and stripped of the pinion gear. Use a heavy pair of pliers to smash/crush the brass pinion gear –

the crushed gear slides oﬀthe motor without damaging the delicate shaft. The motor housing is

then wrapped in masking tape or sleeved with a short length of heat shrink tubing. The propeller

GW HD 2.5 x 0.8 is press t to the motor shaft with the numbers facing the motor (pusher

conguration). So as not to damage the motor during installation, use a #11 hobby knife to

lightly chamfer and relieve the propeller shaft hole. Gently press the propeller onto the shaft

(numbers forward) while supporting the backside of the motor housing. Note: Using excessive

pressing force will damage the motor housing – slightly enlarging the shaft hole in the propeller is

always better than using brute force.

7. Friction t the completed capacitor-power module within the airframe (tape or glue in place only

if absolutely necessary). Pass the motor lead through the 1/4 in. diameter hole at the trailing edge

of the right wing panel and connect to the capacitor-power module. Glue the motor on top of the

motor mount centered along the centerline of the airframe. Continue to the “Flying Instructions”

to prepare the completed microHawk for it’s rst ight.

Capacitor-Power Module

□

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