2
seconds later you should see the film through the right hand window pass curving to the right.
After the film emerges from the bottom channel, release the “Push” lever. At this time
you can increase the speed to the normal running rate, and lead the film until about 3 feet (1m)
has emerged. (If you accidentally let go of the Push lever too soon, stop the machine and back
out the film, to begin over.)
NOTE: Avoid contact with the take-up reel and the Manual Advance knob as they will
be turning rapidly.
NOTE: After releasing the Push lever, you will see through the left-hand window that
the white leader has formed a free loop curving over to the right and back. This free loop is
necessary to isolate the intermittent film movement through the film gate, from the smooth
movement required when it is passing over the sound playback head. If the free loop is the
wrong size, the sound will not be in sync with the picture. See page 9.
Switch to “Still.” (You can carefully apply a braking force to the take-up reel to slow
down its spin, without sticking your fingers in the spokes.) Attach the film to the take-up reel,
turning the reel clockwise a couple of turns, after leading it around the two round plastic guides.
Turn the Manual Advance knob counter-clockwise a few turns to ensure that the film
advances intermittently through the film gate. Switch to “Forward” to preview the film. It
should be right way up (people’s heads and the sky at the top). The frameline (the dividing line
between pictures on the film) should not be visible; if it is, adjust the “Framer” knob or screw
while running, until it is not seen.
Switch to “Reverse” and run until the picture is all back on the supply reel and there is
about 1 foot (.3m) of leader film between the supply reel and the film gate, then switch to
“Stop.” Push the “Reset” button to zero the footage counter. Note that while running in reverse
you will likely get blurring or travel ghost, as the shuttering is optimized for running forward.
Start the video recorder. Switch the TVT-S8S to “Forward” and you will be recording
the film on video.
Loop Loss:
The film should be inspected, repaired and cleaned before it comes to you for transfer.
In case a bad splice or multiple damaged perforations causes loss of the lower film loop and an
increased upper loop, this will cause a chattering noise and the picture will start jumping up and
down, along with garbled sound. Turn the “Loop Restorer Knob” sharply to the right and let it
fall back, to reset the loops. If this doesn’t work, turn to “Stop” and also stop the video recorder.
Turn the Ratcheting Sprockets to reset the upper film loop to midway between the clear plastic
guide rails, and so that the lower film loop is curving to the right and back again as seen
through the left-hand window as set with the Loop Restorer Knob. Then resume the transfer.
For a high grade transfer, running the repaired film should resume from an earlier scene change
in the film, doing a video “assembly edit” using a video recorder with a flying erase head. Note
that it may take about a foot for the picture and sound to become steady, so back up the film to
a foot before the start of the desired scene.
At the end of the film, switch to “Stop” and stop the recorder. Record the film length
count for billing purposes, if your company charges by the foot or meter.
Attach the end of the film straight across to the supply reel, without going through the
sprockets and gate, and turn the reel a couple of turns counter-clockwise. Switch the Rewind
“On” and monitor closely because the film rewinding is very fast, and when the film is fully
