Tommodels Dewoitine D-520 Istruzioni per l’uso

Electric radio controlled model aircraft designed by Tom van Haaren

Dewoitine D-520 construction manual

Construction manual for a 1/9 scale ying model of the Dewoitine D-520

Design by Tom van Haaren http://users.telenet.be/tommodels

Short kit by Manzano Laser Works http://www.manzanolaser.com

Winspan: 1134 mm 44.6 “

Length: 895 mm 35.1”

Weight: 1358g 47.9 oz

Before you start building:

Unroll the plan on a at building surface and pin it down. First, the wing will

be built so start with unrolling sheet 2.The cnc laser cut parts are still in there

frames. Only cut out the parts you need for a particular step in the building

proces. Otherwise you could loose some parts or mix them up. Use a sharp

knife to cut the parts out. Don’t push them out, you could damage the parts by

doing so.

Wing:

1. Make the bottom wing sheeting for half a wing from 1.5mm balsa sheet.

I prefer to use UHU Hart for gluing the sheets together because this glue

is easier to sand than cyanoacrylate (cyano).

2. Mark all ribs and reinforcements on the wing sheeting with a pencil. This

will make it easier to glue everything on. Pin down the wing sheeting on

the plan.

3. Glue the wing spar reinforcements W10 to one of the W9 wing spars.

4. Carefully glue the wing spar to the sheeting. Make sure it stands vertical.

5. Glue wing ribs W2 toW8 on the sheeting. Always dry t them rst. Glue

only the part that touches the sheeting. Afterwards, when all ribs are

partially glued, bend up the sheeting to the forward part of the ribs

and glue it with thin cyano. Make sure the ribs are vertical to the wing

sheeting

6. Glue the rib W1 in place. Note that this is only the back part of the wing

rib. Glue it using the correct dihedral. You can use the drawing of part

W10 on the plan to make a template.

7. Cut the false leading edge from the 2mm balsa sheet and glue it in place.

8. Remove 1 cm of wing ribs W5 to W7 where the aileron reinforcements

will sit.

9. Cut the aileron reinforcements from 5 mm balsa and glue them in place.

This model plane is not a toy, nor a beginner model. The designer and short kit

manufacturer are not responsible for whatever damage or injuries caused by

inproper use of the plane. The pilot of the plane is responsible for it and should

allways use it in a safe way.

It is recommended to read the construction manual through before you start

building.

Materials needed:

Quantity What

4 2.5mm balsa sheets (1000 x 100 mm)

6 1.5mm balsa sheets (1000 x 100 mm)

1 sheet of 2mm balsa (1000 x 100 mm)

1 sheet of 3mm balsa (1000 x 100 mm)

1 sheet of 5mm balsa (1000 x 100 mm)

3 2 x 5 mm spruce stringers (1000 mm)

2 control snakes

Glue: cyano (thick & thin), UHU Hart( = balsa cement), 30-minute epoxy

10. Sand the false leading edge and the aileron reinforcement ush with the

wing ribs. Take care not to damage the wing ribs when sanding.

11. Make the bottom wing sheeting for the second half wing and, and as

with the rst half, mark all ribs and reinforcements with a pencil.

12. Glue the second wing spar W9 on the sheeting. Make sure it is aligned

with the one on the other half wing.

13. Repeat step 5 to 9 for the second half wing.

14. Glue the second wing half to the rst. Support the rst wing half under

rib W8 to get the right dihedral. The wing sheeting at W8 must be

105mm above the building board. Use a slow glue to attach the wing

panels together. Put clamps on the W10 wing spar reinforcements where

they join and overlap the second wing spar.

15. Glue pieces W1a in place.

16. Install a servo wire in each wing side. Make it long enough. You can cut

of excess wire afterwards.

17. Make the top sheeting of the wing from 1.5mm balsa sheet. Sand the

underside of the trailing edge of the top sheeting to zero. This way it will

t better to the wing.

18. Cut a rectangular triangle from scratch 2 mm balsa or ply. The

rectangular sides are 72mm and 6mm. This triangle will be used to get

the right amount of washout in the wing.

19. Pin down the wing at the wing root. Support the wing under one wingtip

with 105mm and put the triangle under the other wing tip. The point

of the triangle should be at the rear side of the wind spar. Glue the top

sheeting of the wing half which is on the building board. Use slow glue

like UHU Hart. This way you have plenty of time to get it right.

20. Repeat step 18 for the second wing half.

21. Cut the leading edge from 5 mm balsa and glue it in place.

22. Glue the wing tips together and glue them to the wing.

23. Sand the wing tips and leading edge in form.

24. Mark and cut out the ailerons. Sand the aileron leading edge to a point,

as shown on the plan.

25. Drill a hole in the centre of the wing in the leading edge, for the wing

dowel. Round off one side of the wing dowel, and glue it in place. Make

sure the rounded side sticks out.

26. Drill the wing bolt hole.

27. Make cutouts for the servos.

28. Install the servos, and cover the gap with wood.

Fuselage:

Before you start with the fuselage, change the plan. Put sheet 1 on the

building table.

1. Mark the position of the fuselage formers on W15 and W16.

2. Start with building the internal box construction. Put F16 on the building

board and glue the 2 sides, F15. Make sure they are vertical to F16.

3. Glue the 2 parts of F19 together. When they are glued together, glue the

wing bolt nut to it. 3

4. Add the part F19 you’ve made in the previous step to the box

construction.

5. Glue F4b to F4.

6. Glue F2 to F7 to the box construction. Make sure everything is square.

Also take care of the sequence. If you mount F2 before you mount F4,

you can’t mount F4.

7. Add the 2 pieces of F14.

8. Glue F1 and F1b together. When this has dried, you can drill the holes to

put the motor screws through.

9. Cut out the 2 pieces of F17. Dry t F17 and F1 to the frame. Check if

everything is square. When you are satised, use slow glue like UHU

Hart to glue it. Again, make sure it is square.

10. Glue the 2 pieces of F18 together and add them.

11. Add some scratch ply where the servo screws will come on F16.

12. Glue the cockpit oor in place.

13. Cut out the wooden instrument panel front and paint it dark green. Copy

the instrument panel on the plan (or in this manual) and cut it out. Put

some transparent tape on it and glue it behind the wooden front when

this has dried. Afterwards, glue it in place on the frame.

14. Sand the edges of the cockpit oor ush with the fuselage formers.

15. Cut one of the spruce stringers to length and glue it in the slots on top

of the fuselage frame. Dry t rst. When you have to apply force to get it

in the right shape, you can steam the stringer and bend it. This way, the

stringer will permanently take this form.

16. Add F12.

17. Add F8 and F9. Take care that you position them right, so the holes for

the control snakes are alligned.

18. Add F13.

19. Glue F10 vertical on F11. When this has dried, glue it on the frame. It is

very important that the angle of F11 compared to the frame is correct.

20. Add a scratch 1.5mm balsa strip between F11 and F12 at the end of the

fuselage. Sand the strip to zero before you glue it.

21. Now the side stringers must be added. They run from F1 to the Balsa

strip at the end of the fuselage. At the front, the fuselage tapers a lot.

Therefore you must steam the side stringers to the right shape. When

you glue them in place, do it on top of the plan. It will determine the

straightness of the fuselage.

22. Cut the control snake outer tubes to length and glue them in place.

Make them long enough. They must run from F7 to the back end of the

fuselage. Anything that comes out of the planking will be cut off later

on. Glue a piece of scratch balsa in the region of F7 to support the outer

snakes.

23. Plank the fuselage with 2.5mm balsa. Cut the balsa sheets in 1 cm wide

strips. Try to t the strips as best as possible. The better everything ts,

the less ller will be needed and the plane will be lighter.

24. Cut the fuselage planking to accept the wing.

25. Cut out the wing fairing undersides from the 0.8mm ply sheet. Cover the

centre part of the wing with plastic foil. Glue the fairing undersides to the

fuselage. Put the wing in place to support the fairing undersides. 4

26. Build up the wing fairings using thick balsa. Afterwards sand it to the

right form. Wrap sanding paper around a cylindrical object to make the

sanding easier.

27. Make the side air intakes from 1.5mm balsa.

28. Mark the position of the air intakes, and cut a hole to allow for airow in

the fuselage.

29. Glue the side air intakes in place.

30. Cut out the air intake at the front.

Tail Surfaces:

1. Make the tail from T1, T2 and T3 and round the leading edge.

2. Make the rudder from R1 and R2 and round the leading edge. Leave the

trailing edge square.

3. Cover the tail and rudder with 25g/m² glass cloth and resin or epoxy

4. Make the stabilizer from S1 and S2.

5. Cut out the elevator rudders and round off the leading edges.

6. Bend a 2mm steel piano wire (U-shape) and attach the 2 elevator

rudders together.

7. Glue the 2 elevator rudders S3 together with the bent wire.

8. Cover the stabilizer and elevators with 25g/m² glass cloth and resin.

9. Cut slots in the stabilizer and the elevator rudders for S4.

10. Drill 1.5mm hole in the 2 S4 parts.

11. Cut 2 pieces from 1.5mm piano wire. They must be approximately 2 cm

long.

12. Make 2 other slots for the 1.5mm axles in the elevators. Cut slips for the

hinges.

13. Glue the 2 1.5mm piano wire axles in the elevator rudders while the

axles are put through the pieces S4. You must take care not to glue S4.

Use epoxy resin to glue this. You can put a little butter or grease on

the pieces S4 to make sure they don’t stick. Glue the 2 hinges in the

elevator.

14. Glue the elevator with the pieces S4 and hinges to the stabilizer.

15. Glue the stabilizer to the fuselage. Align it carefully with the wing. Use

epoxy.

16. Fill the gaps forward and aft of the stabilizer with 5 mm balsa.

17. Glue the tail in place.

18. Fill the gap between the tail and stabilizer with a hollow balsa block, or

build up 2.5mm planking.

Wing radiator

1. Build the wing radiator frame on top of the plan with pieces R1-R4.

2. Sheet the radiator with 3mm balsa.

3. Cover the radiator with glass cloth and epoxy resin.

4. Drill a hole for the wing bolt.

5. Mark the radiator’s position on the wing underside and glue it in place

using epoxy. 5

6. Cut a plate of 0.8mm ply that ts the inside width of the radiator to the

aft side of the wing.

7. Drill a hole in this plate for the wing bolt

8. Glue it in place, at the underside of the wing.

Finishing

I covered the prototype with 25g/m² glass cloth and G4 polyurethane resin.

When the model was covered I cut out the back windows. Then I attached the

ailerons with hinges. The model was painted with an airbrush. After painting the

model, the cockpit interior must be painted. Add a pilot gure and afterwards

glue the canopy on the model. Add a cardboard interior in the back windows. I

made the back windows from thin plastic paper map.

Drill 2 holes (10mm) from the top of the wing, through the centre of wing,

in the centre of the wing. They end up in the radiator. This is to allow the air,

which comes in through the front air intakes, to get out of the fuselage.

Install the fuselage servos and screw in a launch hook.

CG is 77 mm from the leading edge of the wing.

Enjoy !!!

If you have any questions regarding this plane, feel free to email me

vanhaar[email protected]

Tom van Haaren

September 2007

Instrument panel

Cut out en glue behind the wooden front.

12 14 16

812

F15

1.5 mm Ply

W10

F1a

F1b

F10

F12

F14

F16

F17

F19 F19

F18

F4b

F6b

F13

F12

0.8 mm Ply

Wing fairing underside

1.5 mm Ply

Part list

Ply parts

Part list

Balsa parts

W1a

W8 Cockpit floor

Tip block Tip block

R3 R4

5 mm Balsa

T1 T2

5 mm Balsa

2 mm Balsa

3 mm Balsa

Indice

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