Topper TOPAZ VIBE Guida rapida
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Topaz VIBE
Rigging Instructions
TOPAZ VIBE
RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
CONTENTS
2. Introduction
2. Manufacturers Details
3. Maintenance
4. Raising the Mast
5. Attaching the Boom and Gnav
6. Raising the Jib
8. Rigging the Gennaker Kit
9. Rigging the Gennaker Sail
11. Raising the Mainsail
13. Reefing the Mainsail
13. Rudder
14. Tips
INTRODUCTION
These RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS have been compiled to help you to rig your Topaz VIBE sailing dinghy.
Please also ensure that you refer to your TOPAZ OWNERS MANUAL. The OWNERS MANUAL has been compiled
to help you to operate your craft with safety and enjoyment. It contains details of the craft, the equipment supplied
or fitted, it’s systems and information on its operation and maintenance. Please read it carefully and familiarise yourself
with the craft before using it.
If this is your first craft, or you are changing to a type of craft you are not familiar with, for your own comfort and safety,
please ensure that you obtain handling and operating experience before assuming command of the craft. Your dealer
or national sailing federation or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local sea schools, or competent instructors.
PLEASE KEEP THE RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS and THE OWNERS MANUAL IN A SECURE PLACE AND HAND THEM
OVER TO THE NEW OWNER WHEN YOU SELL THE CRAFT.
MANUFACTURER DETAILS
For further information, spares and accessories,
please contact the manufacturer:
TOPPER INTERNATIONAL LTD,
Kingsnorth Technology Park,
Wotton Road, Ashford, Kent TN23 6LN
Telephone +44 (0) 1233 629186
Fax +44 (0) 1233 645897
email [email protected]
2
TOPAZ VIBE
MAINTENANCE
The Topaz VIBE is designed to require very little maintenance, but there are some simple ways
to keep your boat in the best condition.
Mainsheet
Tie a figure of eight knot in the mainsheet at a point which will prevent the boom hitting the shrouds.
Rudder
Never launch your boat without checking that the retaining clip has clicked into place beneath
the upper transom fitting.
Sails
After sailing, roll the mainsail loosely. Never fold Mylar sailcloth.
Never let the sails flap unduly. Do not hoist the jib till just before launching. If you have the optional furler kit fitted,
furl the jib as soon as you hoist it (even in light airs). Try to get into the habit of furling it while launching
and recovering the boat, between races and when you capsize in windy conditions!
The mainsail is protected to some extent by the full-length battens which stop it flapping but you should never
leave it hoisted for extended periods on the shore.
Be as gentle as you can with the asymmetric. Drops have to be fast but if the crew can pull smoothly the sail will
last longer. You should also keep an eye on the halyard cleat: really strong (or unobservant) crews have been known
to pull the patches out of cleated kites... Avoid trawls - the helmsman can help if necessary by taking the sheet on
the drop. Bearing away a little also makes the pull easier.
Always rinse the sails and boat after sailing in salt water.
Remove the gennaker from the boat after sailing - mice have a taste for gennakers left in boats! If you must leave
it in the chute overnight make sure that the corners are flat (i.e. not folded or crushed). Always dry the gennaker
flat (not flapping in the wind!) before folding it.
ALWAYS RELEASE JIB TENSION WHEN NOT SAILING
Foils
Repair any nicks or deep scratches on the rudder with gelcoat filler. Even the slightest damage to the shape
or surface of the foils will affect their performance. If your boat vibrates or hums it is usually due to minor
damage to the foils.
Make sure that the rudder blade remains tight in the stock when down. Any play between the blade and stock,
or between the stock and the hull, may cause steering problems.
Hull and fittings
Small dents can be repaired by gently warming the hull with a hot air blower (take care not to melt the hull).
For any more substantial repairs refer to Topper Sailboats.
Check the attachment of all fittings regularly. This is particularly important for the fittings that are screwed onto
fixings that are set in the hull. Keep all blocks, cleats and ropes clean and rinse them after salt water exposure.
Always remove the bung to empty any water after sailing, and when not sailing leave the bung out to prevent
the build-up of pressure within the hull as the temperature fluctuates.
Ropes
Replace any ropes showing signs of wear immediately. Too many championships have been lost by failing to replace
a damaged rope when it was first noticed.
3
4
Fix the base of the mast to the mast step on the cross beam
with the pin and ring from the mast step.
Ensure all halyards are in place at foot of mast. You may now
pull the mast up using the forestay. You may require someone
to lift the top of the mast.
Having pulled the mast upright secure the forestay to the eye
on the black bar at the chute mouth. Leave a long tail.
Ensure all halyards from mast are clear and not twisted
or snagged.
RAISING THE MAST
Position the boat head to wind away from any overhead power
lines or other obstructions.
Lay the mast along the centre line of the boat.
Untape all the ropes attached to the foot of mast.
Attach shroud adjusters to the shroud eye each side -
approximately the 7th hole down (approximately the middle
of the adjuster). Subsequently, you can attach at the captive
pin on the base of the plate.
5
Fix the gnav strut to the carriage on the top of the boom.
The carriage should already be fixed to the boom for you.
Having fixed the boom and gnav to the mast, thread the gnav
control line from the fitting at the front of the boom through
the cleat on the mast.
Attach main halyard to end of boom.
TIP: You can tie a stopper knot in halyard by the mast
to support the boom while you rig.
ATTACHING BOOM & GNAV
Attach the boom onto the mast with the pin on the lower of the
two fittings. Remember to put the pin in from the top and flip
the pin end over.
Next attach the strut to the upper fitting on the mast.
Ensure the toggle is correctly orientated.
WARNING It is VITAL that the GNAV toggle is assembled
as shown in the diagram below. Failure to do this will result
in damage to the Strut Assembly.
Note orientation
of toggle
6
ATTACH BOOM & GNAV (continued)
The mainsheet can now be threaded. Starting from the centre
cleat round the ratchet block (remember to check it clicks
when the rope is pulled in), feed up to the rear block on the
underside of the boom going, through block running from the
back to the front, then down to the block on the rope strop,
then up to front block on underside of boom, through block
going front to back this time, then back down to tie off with a
figure-eight knot onto the top of the block on the rope strop.
RAISING THE JIB
Then attach the foot of the jib to the eye at the front of the boat
using the tail of the forestay.
Attach jib head to the shackle on jib halyard.
Pin downward.
7
Attach the jib hanks to the forestay.
Make sure you are still head to wind. Raise the jib by pulling
the halyard and cleating off at the base of the mast (A).
Attach the jib sheets to the clew of the jib with stopknot.
TIP: The neatest way to do this is to find the centre
of the jib sheet and push a small loop of it through
the clew cringle. Pass both the tails through this loop and
pull tight. If you tie the ends together with a fisherman's
knot the crew will always be able to release the jib sheet.
This hitch is small and will therefore slip around the jib luff
easily when gybing. Remember to thread the sheets
through the cleats and fairleads.
Take jib halyard tail and stow in tidy bag on top of gennaker
sock.
TIP: It is not advisable to leave jib up overnight.
REMEMBER TO TAKE THE JIB TENSION OFF WHEN NOT
BEING SAILED.
A
RIGGING THE GENNAKER KIT
The gennaker halyard is entirely external to the mast. One end
ties to the head (top ) of the sail then passes through the top
pulley block on the mast and to the small block on the beam.
Thread the tail down through the block on the bottom front of
the beam.
Then forward, around the free block located to the side of the
gennaker chute (attached to the line that pulls the pole out).
Then back to the spinlock cleat on the port side of the mast.
Lead the end down through the block at the front of the
centerboard case. Round the back first (i.e., feed forward
from the back of block).
Then through the eyelet at the back of the sock.
Feed it up the sock to the mouth of the chute.
TIP: Remove a batten from the mainsail and feed this
through the sock and use this to pull the halyard through.
Tie it off so you do not lose it!
8
9
The tack line emerges from the forward end of the bowsprit.
Tie a figure-of-eight knot about 6in /15cm from the end of this
line and an overhand knot right at the end.
Pull the pole right out: the easiest way to do this is to tie off
the top end of the gennaker halyard and pull on the other end.
This should launch the pole by pulling the single block back
down the boat. Ensure that the pole is right out. The lines
should be pre-set to the correct position - i.e. the pole goes
right out; when it is out the figure-of-eight knot in the tack line
is pulled right to the end of the pole.
If you need to adjust any of these remember that they are
all interdependent. So moving one will affect the others.
For instance, moving the knot which attaches the aft end
of the tack line to the deck-eye on the beam of the boat
in front of the mast will affect how far the pole can go out
and the distance from the tack of the sail to the pole end.
TIP: The rope may stretch initially, so you may need to
adjust the knot after the first time you sail.
RIGGING THE GENNAKER SAIL
Tape over all protruding fittings and fixings around the bow.
The gennaker is a big sail and if it can catch on anything it will!
Pass the overhand knot at the end of the tack line (at the outer
end of the pole) through the eye at the tack of the sail (marked
"T") and tie a half-hitch, using the overhand knot as a stopper.
Ensure that the sail is not twisted.
Follow the luff to the head of the gennaker (marked "H")
and attach it to the top end of the gennaker halyard using
a bowline. Pull the gennaker up the mast slightly to give
yourself some slack in the downhaul.
Attach the sheets to the clew (marked "C") with stopknot.
TIP: The neatest way to do this is to find the centre of the
gennaker sheet and push a small loop of it through the
clew cringle. Pass both the tails through this loop and pull
tight. If you tie the ends together with a fisherman's knot
the crew will always be able to release the gennaker sheet.
This hitch is small and will therefore slip around the jib luff
easily when gybing. Remember to thread the sheets
through auto ratchet in the correct direction.
Now you have all three corners of the gennaker tied on
and you can attach the downhaul. This can be tricky -
and embarrassing if you get it wrong - especially if you
do not notice until the first hoist or even the first gybe!
A good way to remember how to connect it is to make sure
that the downhaul is always behind the tack line and in front
of BOTH sheets. To collapse the gennaker neatly into a short
sock when dropping, the Vibe utilizes a two-patch system:
an eye near the foot and a webbing loop near the head.
Untie the downhaul from where it is tied off at the chute mouth.
(A) Pass the end through the eye in the bottom ring of
the gennaker.
(B) Then put the bobble on the halyard before you tie the end
of the gennaker downhaul to the webbing eye on the top patch
using a bowline. This stops your bowline getting court in the
middle ring. Remember to bring the downhaul out behind the
tack and in front of both sheets.
You should now be able to pull the gennaker down into
the chute, ensuring that it does not snag around the pole-end
or under the bow.
TIP: When launching the gennaker. Pull gennaker halyard
from block NOT direct from chute. This will prevent wear
and tear at chute opening.
10
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