XCS ULTIMATE 2 SLED Manuale utente

ULTIMATE 2

SLED

XCS INC.

MANUAL

Rev.2.3

1/14

Composite Video 0S 304 0S 303 HDSDI Video

In only loop through

75 Ohm only

0S 304

1-14 Vdc+

2-Ground

3-Ground

4-14 Vdc+

1S 303

1-28 Vdc+

2-Ground

3-14 Vdc+

2B 302

1-14 Vdc+

2-Ground

0B 304

1-Ground

2-14Vdc+

3-Video signal

4-Video gnd.

2B 303

1-28 Vdc+

2-Ground

3-14Vdc+

Upper Camera Platform /Lower electronics housing connectors.

Because our sleds are completely customizable some connectors and placement can vary.

Camera platform rear view

Camera platform left side view

Camera platform right/left side

view

0B 304

1-Ground

2-14 Vdc+

3-Video signal

4-Video gnd

9mm tapped plugged hole for

0B Lemo X3

Often used for 2 pin Tally

connector

Lower electronics housing front view

1B 308

1-Power gnd.

2-14 Vdc+

3-Video signal

4-Video gnd.

5,6,7 not connected

8-Video out from

recorder deck.

0B 304

1-Ground

2-14Vdc+

3-Video

signal

4-Video gnd

HDSDI loop

through

0.375” hole

with plug X2

Often used for 2 pin tally

connector and 2nd HD line

0S 304

1-14 Vdc+

2-Ground

3-Ground

4-14 Vdc+

1S 303

1-28 Vdc+

2-Ground

3-14 Vdc+

Warranty

Please read before using your equipment

Xtended Camera Support will warranty this product against defects in material and workmanship

for a period of one year from the date of invoice. XCS will pay parts and labor charges to repair or

replace any manufacturers defect under normal operating conditions. The buyer will be responsible for all

shipping charges.

This warranty does not cover, nor will the manufacturer be responsible for, damages caused from

abuse, misuse, negligence, accidents, cosmetic damage, or by acts of God. All warranties expressed or

written will be voided if this equipment has been damaged by abuse, misuse, negligence, or accident.

Great care in engineering design has been made resulting in no serviceable parts inside this sled

and monitor. Care must be taken when using all your equipment. One should protect it from water, dirt,

shock, and excessive heat. Proper care of your equipment should be mandatory in your mind. After all, if

the equipment fails, you stop working.

If you have any questions on care for any of this equipment, please call XCS and we will be glad

to advise you on any maintenance of our equipment.

Proper care should be taken when shipping your equipment to protect it from shock damage. At

least 2.0” of a 4 lbs. Ester foam (or equal) should surround your equipment at all times when shipping.

Case design is made so that the case will absorb the impact and the case will give up its life, protecting

the equipment inside.

Unlike any sled ever designed before, it takes a special and knowledgeable operator to

understand the technical hurdles and advancements made with the Ultimate sleds. We thank you for

choosing it. We understand you have many options for sleds out there, and most of them are less

expensive to purchase. However, an informed operator can quickly weed out all the competition, on

every design feature, and only one manufacturer stands alone.

With proper care, this equipment will provide you with many years of service. Thank you for

choosing Xtended Camera Support. We have only the operator in mind for all our designs.

*The use of 50Ω plugs will permanently damage all the HDSDI connectors on the unit. The use of 50Ω plugs is considered to

be misuse of the equipment and will therefore invalidate the unit’s warranty. Please check and update those old BNC cables

there is no place in the HD world for them.

UPPER CAMERA PLATFORM

Low profile design “drop in” style upper camera platform (UCP). A single quick locking clamp secures

the camera plate in seconds. You will also notice that there is no flexing anywhere in this design. After 10

years of operating the system design I have yet to see any vibration transmitted to the camera, no matter

the weight, speed of travel, camera angle, or directional changes. The UCP design, however, is only part

of the overall design that makes this system’s stability second to none.

The quick release upper camera platform is simply removed by unscrewing the locking ring and lifting off

the post. Cable connectors are keyed so when reattaching the post and platform simply spin the post a

few degrees allowing the interconnection. The post mount is keyed and fits into the registration pin. Make

sure you securely tighten down the knurled locking ring, no tools are needed, hand tight is all you will

need.

There is no need to over tighten the Kipp handled dovetailed locking clamp. The Urethane on the face

of the clamp will hold the camera plate with light pressure. Over time you will need to replace this Kipp

handle, 2 years on average. The stud is made from a soft zinc steel, the insert in the stage is hardened

stainless steel. By design, the Kipp handle’s stud will wear out first. After a few years, if you are having to

over tighten the Kipp handle and the dovetail is sliding in the platform or the clamp is hanging up on the

stainless steel shoulder bolts, you will need to simply adjust the two set screws that keep the clamp in

alignment. They are located on the side of the clamp. (See Adjusting dovetail clamp)

It takes only 3.5 revolutions to go from fully engaged to fully open on the Kipp handles 10-32 TPI stud to

engage the camera dovetail plate. It takes ¾-1 revolution to loosen the camera plate. I mention this

because in low mode you will not want to turn the Kipp handle more than two revolutions.

On the three 6-32 tapped holes for the receiver bracket on the front of the platform the screw should not

exceed .25” into the platform.

Front view Rear view

All composite video inputs and outs are correctly wired through distribution amplifiers, using 75 ohm

conductors. The HDSDI BNC loops through to the lower electronics housing HD BNC connector. This

bypasses the sled electronics.

Composite video in

12Vdc FI&Z power only

12/24 accessory pwr. 2 amp max

HDSDI / Composite

loop through

12 Vdc camera

power

12 Vdc / video out for transmitter

12/24 Vdc camera power

9mm

tapped/plug

hole

Left side view Bottom view

Camera plate

The XCS camera plate design is unique in a multitude of ways. Unlike other plates it will not flex.

One plate design fits all current camera designs. You have three 15 mm rod holes in the front of the plate

for motors. Over 5.0” of Fore & Aft travel for balance. A dovetail at the rear of the plate for our transmitter

bracket keeps your video transmitter at the highest point. There two additional dovetails on the lower

electronics housing for the transmitter bracket when working in low mode. Two .375 x 16 TPI tapped

holes for the camera screws.

The left-right sliding camera plate is the most flexible camera plate ever designed . You used to

have a specific screw hole that you placed the camera screw into. With slots you have greater flexibility in

placing the camera plate on the cameras center of balance. Add the flexibility of the sliding plate, you will

never again has to worry about finding a center balance. You will find ENG video cameras, Sony P5,55,

Arri SR’s, and Aaton are all down the center of the plate. Alexa, F65 Panavision, Arri, and Moviecam are

all camera right side heavy, so the camera plate when screwed into the base will be off towards the

camera right side a bit, 3/16th’s to .25” would be average. In the beginning of ownership getting used to

finding the camera plate placement is no different than when you had to learn the method of which screw

hole to use. With the addition of the sliding camera plate it doesn’t have to be perfect, you have more left

to right adjustment then any sled system. You also as you have your fine balance adjustments at the

bottom of the Lower Electronics Housing (LEH).

Video in / 12Vdc

Two clamp adjustment set

screws

10-32 TPI Kipp locking handle

Knurled locking ring

Center post alignment pin

ULTIMATE GIMBAL

Your no tools adjustable gimbal is the most precision designed gimbal ever in the steadicam

industry. Care should be taken so it will provide you with many years of service and reliability. Be careful

not to drop or bend your gimbal fork.

There is not much to tell you about when it comes to the gimbal. To adjust the gimbal up or down

the post, simply turn the Kipp handle to loosen and move the gimbal into position, and retighten. You do

not have to over tighten a gimbal lock on the carbon fiber post. Snug is generally significant enough and

does not need as much force as you might be used to on metal posts.

When making very fine gimbal balance adjustments, I have learned that by turning the gimbal

sleeve a little bit like a screw, that this helps make small adjustments very precise.

One of the unique gimbal sleeve design features is the symmetrical contours on the cap. This

gives the operator the same feel when operating in either high or low mode. The symmetrical fork design

allows considerably more hand room under the gimbal fork in normal mode and you will never have to

worry about pinching your thumb on the fork in low mode. Precise alignment of all three axis, no tools

balance adjustment, complete interchangeability has made this gimbal the most popular gimbal on the

market.

On the standard 115 degree handle is the 10-32 locking screw which is used for tightening the

gimbal handle onto your post in low mode.

Under the foam grip is the standard .1875” through hole in this handle, if you like to use a safety

pin . If you are using the Ergo handle you will not need the locking screw because you do not flip the

handle over for low mode work.

Gimbal Cleaning & Care

You will find that you most likely will not be disassembling your gimbal and cleaning it very often.

In fact it may be years before you would need to do it, if at all.

Place gimbal wrench pins in two of the matching holes on the gimbal cover.

Hold down on gimbal wrench as picture shows and turn to remove gimbal dust cover. A light tap

with a plastic screwdriver handle may be necessary.

Hold the gimbal upright when removing cap so not to have the fork and bearing cup fall off the

gimbal sleeve. Using the same gimbal wrench, remove the side dust covers on the gimbal fork.

This will reveal the two fork bearings. It is not necessary or recommended to remove the

bearings from the gimbal fork or bearing cup during cleaning, nor is it necessary.

When removing the fork & bearing cap from sleeve be careful to slide it off evenly. It is a perfect

fit. DO NOT PRY OR TAP THE FORK OR BEARING TO REMOVE OR DISASSEMBLE FROM

SLEEVE. If the bearing does not remove from sleeve smoothly, put it in the freezer for 20-30

minutes, this will allow the bearing to be easily removed from the gimbal sleeve.

I find cleaning the bearings using a pressurized non-lubricated spray contact cleaner works

perfectly. You can also use an automotive pressurized can of spray carburetor or brake cleaner.

Be advised to wear eye protection when using any pressurized cleaner. I would spray the bearing

and spin them three or four times to remove any dirt and excess cleaner.

Lubricate with the oil of your choice. We use a Castro synthetic lubricant, but any type of

lubrication will work. Place a few drops on all the bearings and spin the bearings to work the oil

into the bearing cage. This oil will fly out when you spin it, so be forewarned.

Wipe clean the bearing journal on the gimbal sleeve. Wipe on a small amount of lubricant for

easier assembly of the bearing onto the journal. Insert the bearing cup onto the gimbal sleeve

and reassemble in reverse order. Once again I would give a light tap on the gimbal wrench to

tighten the cap on the sleeve.

We do not use, and do not recommend using, any type of thread locker on these threads.

Gimbal handle removal, replacement

Before you replace your gimbal handle, take your new handle and inspect the spindle end

(tapered end portion that fits into the gimbal fork). Make sure the tapered portion has no dents,

scratches, or marring of any kind. If it does, do not use this spindle.

To remove the handle, please follow the instructions below.

Remove gimbal from the sled post. With clamping end of the gimbal facing up, insert 9” hex head

wrench provided through the gimbal handle sleeve into the hex head screw in the gimbal fork.

Remove the screw that holds the fork on the gimbal handle and set it aside. The fork should

separate from the spindle cleanly. If the handle is stuck on the spindle, you might re-insert the

screw half way and tap the top of the hex head wrench. This will disengage the stainless steel

spindle shaft from the fork.

Reassemble in reverse order. You do not have to use Loctite on the 10-32 screw that attaches

the fork to the handle, but if you decide to, use a non-permanent Loctite (purple) on the gimbal

fork screw. Do not over tighten this screw. The recommended maximum inch/pounds is 28 on

this stainless steel screw.

What to do if the spindle is turning while you turn the hex head screw.

If this occurs, press down slightly on the fork with your index and middle finger next to the hex

head screw as you turn the wrench. This will put slight pressure on the spindle and hold it while you

loosen the screw.

Other notes:

We use a Heilcoil insert on the threads of the gimbal sleeve to prevent possible damage to the

sleeve itself. If you replace the Kipp handle, we recommend not using hardened steel screws - soft zinc

is the best choice. Over a period of time these could damage the thread insert.

If you wish to remove the Kipp handle and use a standard hex head screw, a 10-32 TPI screw

size and .625” long should work fine.

The design allows the user to expand the masses of the sled allowing greater stability in any

system. By moving your monitor and batteries in /out decreases /increases your panning inertia allowing

your system to glide along when expanded, or whippy when compressed. The two hex head screws on the

side of the clamp when loosened, allows you to move your monitor in and out.

When flipping your monitor into low mode, operators need only to loosen the Kipp handle on the

center post clamp, then flip your monitor over and reattach the clamp.

There is an 8-32 Phillips FHMS located on the inside of the post clamp. If you wish to have the

locking clamp rotated to the other side, simply loosen the Phillips head screw, remove the split clamp, flip it

180 degrees and press it on lightly, and attach the screw with a bit of nonpermanent Loctite.

Once again we use 10-32 TPI Kipp handles on the sled. If you wish to replace the Kipp handles you will

need the 10-32 TPI screws, different lengths for different applications. A set of these spare screws are

provided with the sled.

Dual Rod Monitor Support Arm

XCS

2” Telescoping Carbon Fiber Post

Bayonet mounted means never before has

changing center posts been so easy.

When disconnecting from the UPC you will

need to unscrew the knurled ring completely.

When disconnecting from the LEH you need

only to turn the knurled ring 60 degrees and

pull up on the post. When connecting or

disconnecting the center post, there is never

any need to connect or disconnect wires

inside the post. The post itself contains a

custom designed cable with 16 conductors.

The coiled cable contains correct wire gauge

sizes for power, video coax and signal wires.

The multi-layered custom wound post assures maximum post rigidity and feeling of solidness like never

before. Currently this post design is up to 15X more rigid than current aluminum designs. To extend the

post you simply need to loosen the center post clamp and side in or out, retighten the clamp when set to

length. There is a slot in the aluminum reducer ring that aligns to the ruler mark on the inner post. This

allows the UPC and Lower Electronics Housing (LEH) to stay in alignment. There is a safety stop in the

inner post preventing the post from sliding apart.

The internal cable and connector are designed to spin and slide in and out. We changed from a

fixed connector design to make it field serviceable. If the cable slides out the bayonet end it will pop back

into the bayonet mount.

To assure maximum integrity in the center post, there are no slots or grooves cut into the inner or

outer posts. It would be possible to spin the outer post around the inner post, uncoiling the inner-coiled

cable when connected to the LEH & UCP, and eventually this would make telescoping and contracting

difficult. Be cautious in trying not to spin your inner or outer tube more than 720 degrees in any one

direction. Damage to internal conductors may occur if repeated spinning of the cable persists in a single

direction.

This tube is sealed and there are no serviceable components inside the post. However the post

connector can be easily removed if need be. Be extremely cautious not to bend or break the protruding

connector pins. If a pin is damaged do not try to engage it into the UCP/LEH mating connector.

Changing over to a super post can be easily done in 5 minutes. For cleaning the post use a soft

cloth and light duty spray cleaner. Do not wipe with a solvent that may remove the ink on the inner post.

Ultimate 2 Lower Electronics Housing (LEH)

Here is what this Ultimate 2 has to offer.

Battery Management System (BMS)

Microprocessor controlled system

that monitors all batteries plugged

into the LEH, draws power from 1,2

or 3 of those battery packs. When

you change batteries you change all

batteries at once. All batteries

plugged in are monitored and

selected by the computer to provide

both 12 & 24 Vdc when selected

based on power demand and

batteries ability to deliver power.

The BMS displays the individual

voltage of each battery plugged into

the system in 12 Vdc mode and

combined 12 and 24Vdc display in

24Vdc mode.

Single Power on/off pushbutton. With power indicating LED

Single 12/24 pushbutton power selector. User can power the system with a 24Vdc battery. This

battery will feed 24 Vdc to all 24 Vdc power outputs only. One user selectable battery plate can

accept a single 12 or 24 Vdc battery for 24 Vdc power requirements, for example cameras and

accessories. If the user tries to attach the 24 Vdc battery to any of the other two battery plates the

BMS will display a “CANNOT BE 24 VOLTS”warning on the LCD letting the user know it can not

be used on that battery plate.

User selectable “LO” battery indicator for 12 and 24 setups. Blinking super bright amber LED

On/Off control of the LCD backlight.

Correctly wired for the most demanding power situations, up to 40 amps at 14Vdc.

Video distribution amplifier for composite video and loop through for up to two HDSDI video lines.

Reverse polarity protected

Short circuit protected

Signal noise filtering for video and power

User selectable voltage output for your recorder, 4.5, 7.2, 9 and battery voltage

Selectable Record/Playback toggle switch

Left-right and fore-aft fine trim balance adjustments.

Telescoping battery plates

Your choice of Anton Bauer, PAG, or IDX V mount battery plates

Battery plate 1

Plate 2

Plate 3

Getting Started with the Ultimate 2’s (U2) basic functions.

This system is designed to run both 12/24 volt camera systems and their accessories.

The owner can use any type of battery chemistry in any combination.

The lower electronics housing will accept up to three 14.4 volt battery packs or up to two 14.4 battery

packs and one 24 Vdc battery pack at the same time.

The sled can deliver 14.4 volts when using 1, 2,or 3, 14.4 volt batteries in 12 volt mode

The sled can provide both 14.4 and 28.8 volts when using two or more 14.4 volt batteries in 24 volt

mode. In 24 volt mode a 14.4 battery must be on battery plate # 3 and 1 or 2.

The sled can provide both 14.4 and 28.8 volts when using one or more 14.4 volt batteries and one 24 volt

battery.

All the system 12 volt outputs and all 24 volt outputs are common. One of the unique design features is

that it does not provide an isolated 14.4 volt power source.

Backlight LCD screen- The LCD displays current individual voltage battery status in 12 volt mode,

combined voltage of battery 3 in 24 volt mode, sled MODE and any text warning indicators.

MAIN PWR- Pushbutton turns the system

on/off. There is an amber LED pwr on indicator.

When turning OFF the power button must be

held down for at least 1 second.

LO battery indicator- Amber LED blinks when

the voltage drops below the user selectable

voltages. Factory preset for the warning

indicator as follows:

12 volt mode- Indicator blinks at 13.4 volts

24 volt mode- Indicator blinks at 24.2 volts

In 12 volt mode the 8 selectable settings are:

12.4, 12.6, 12.8, 13.0, 13.2, 13.4,13.6,13.8

volts

In 24 volt mode the user selectable settings

are: 23.0, 23.2, 23.4, 23.6, 23.8, 24.2, 24.4,

24.8 volts

User has two different 8 position rotary switches labeled SW1 (12 volt mode) SW2 (24 volt mode)

They are located inside the electronics housing and can be accessed by removing the 6 screws holding

the housing cover together.

12/24 Camera Pwr button- Allows the operator to select the power Mode the system will be running at.

12V Mode for 12 volt camera systems and accessories.

24V Mode for 24 volt camera systems and accessories, while still delivering 14.4 volts to all 14.4 volt

output connectors. To achieve 24 volts when using 14.4 batteries you need to have at least two battery

packs and one pack has to be on battery plate #3. Or you are using a 24 volt battery on plate #3.

ON/OFF BACK LIGHT button- Turns the LCD screen backlight on/off.

RECORD/PLAYBACK toggle switch- Directs the video signal input to the on board recorder in record

mode or to the 8 pin Lemo connector’s pin 8 for video playback through the LEH.

Connectors on the LEH.

These are the standard connectors and connections. Options available.

1B 308- Provides 14.4 battery voltage, video signal out 1V Peak-Peak from top stage. Also video

playback on pin 8 from the operators record deck.

0S 304- Provides 14.4 battery voltage, video signal out 1V Peak-Peak from top stage for video

transmitter. 8

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