Zippkits G30 Manuale utente
1
G30
Outboard
Tunnel Hull
For .21 Nitro or 4S electric ~Length- 30.5 inches ~Beam- 11.5 inches
2
The G30 is a new Outboard Tunnel design by (IMPBA Hall of Fame member) Rod
Geraghty.
Made for 3.5cc Nitro or Fast Electric outboards, this hull is a modern design with the
most up to date improvements in the sponsons and fuselage.
The building technique is borrowed from Jerry Dunlap’s WOF (Wood Over Foam)
method.
We took it a step further by using the actual sheeting in a clever way to also be the
cutting templates.
Using our exclusive ZippCut foam cutter, you can have the boat ready for waterproofing
in a weekend.
The G30 is an easy boat to build, easy to setup and runs great.
Please follow these instructions EXACTLY, and you won’t have any issues.
Don't glue anything until told to do so. We will be using some parts as templates on both
sides.
The very first cuts you will make are critical. They must be aligned perfectly, or the boat
won’t come out correctly.
If you are not sure of the next step, or are having trouble with your kit, please contact us
and we will help.
We want you to have a great time building and running your G30, and will do everything
we can to help.
Please read this entire manual completely before you begin construction, as this
will help you understand what you are doing and avoid mistakes.
Spare parts are available.
The manufacturer assumes no liability for damages or other loss in the use of this
product, as we have no control over the construction or end use of this product.
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Sponsons
The foam blanks have two smooth sides and two rough
sides. We will work with smooth sides.
Lay one of the foam blanks on the bench with a smooth
side up.
Measure ½ inch from the bottom edge. Use the included
square to draw a line down the end of the block.
The line should go all the way from the bench to the top
of the block as shown.
Be sure that the square is flat against the bench. This is
important.
Repeat on the other end.
Be sure to measure from the same edge.
Bring your marks around the corner so you can see them.
Grab both Insides (marked INSIDE). Note that one side is
curved and one almost straight. The curved side is the top.
On the side marked with INSIDE, put a piece of masking
tape over the slots near the front of the inside.
This is needed to prevent glue from getting in the slots
that are used later.
Tape each one. Be sure to do both pieces on the marked
side. Use regular masking tape. We only used the blue
low tack for the pictures.
Pin both insides (INSIDE) to one block of foam. Line up
the back so that they are even with the foam.
Line up the bottoms of (INSIDE) on your marks on both
ends.
Be sure that both parts are perfectly aligned with each
other. Look at both ends and double check.
Photographs of very light colored ply on white foam are
difficult to see. We will use some drawings to make
things more clear.
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They must be perfectly aligned with each other. This is
absolutely critical, so take the time to get it right.
Cutting
Be sure to squeeze the templates together while cutting. If
you don’t squeeze them pretty hard, the template can be
pushed down by the cutting wire. If this happens, the boat
will be ruined. Don’t allow the templates to move, even a
tiny bit.
The best way to do this is by, you guessed it, SQUEEZE
THOSE TEMPLATES!
Cut the foam on the top or bottom. Flip it over. Cut the
other side. Be sure to squeeze…
Use a few light swipes of a sanding block to smooth the
surfaces you cut and eliminate any bumps.
Repeat this same procedure on the other foam block.
Don't glue anything yet.
Remember, the curved part of the sponson is the top. The
bottom is almost straight.
Next, we will make these into right and left sides. It is
very important that we make these mirror images of each
other.
If not, you get to buy a new kit and do it again!
Honestly, take your time here and understand where you
want to end up.
Pin both tops (TOP) to one sponson. Pin so that the
etched line is even with the edge of the foam. There will
be an overhang on this edge while cutting. Line up the
back ends flush with the foam. It may help to use tape on
the ends, to hold the tops in place.
Cut the excess foam off… Squeeze.
Now, very important, flip both tops over, align and pin to
the other foam blank, except this side will be a mirror
image of the other.
Double and triple check this before you cut. Both tops
will be curved and both bottoms will be almost straight.
When you are positive that you have both a right and left
side, go ahead and cut.
5
Now that you have two sponsons, this is starting to look
like something. And look at what a good job you did with
following instructions and all!
Since you are a foam cutting pro now, the rest will be
easier.
Sponson Sheeting
Glue an Inside (INSIDE) in place on the sponson. Try to
do this on a very flat surface.
To glue the sponson sheeting in place, we like to use 30
minute epoxy. Just use a scrap of thin ply or an old credit
card as a squeegee, and put a thin coat on foam and
plywood. Work quickly. Use pins and tape to hold in
place.
Remove the pins after you tape, or they will interfere with
the next step.
Put some waxed paper down and set the sponson on the
waxed paper, inside down, until cured.
Put some weights on the sponson to keep it flat.
We do this so that the sponson inside will be straight and
true. Everything else is based on the inside, so take the
time and do this right.
Do the other side the same way. Allow to cure for at least
3 hours.
You can now glue the outsides (OUT) in place. This is
also curved on top, and the pointy goes forward.
Line them up so that they are even at the ends of the top
(curved) part of the sponson at the front and rear.
See OVERLAY page at the back of this manual.
Pin, tape and weight the outside until cured.
6
Once everything cures, let's finish up these sponsons!
ZippCut the top and bottom of each sponson.
No need to squeeze anymore since the templates are
glued in place now.
Sand the top and bottom of each sponson so that the
inside and outside sheets are beveled.
We used 80 grit paper on a block for this.
We want a flat, smooth surface for the sheeting to bond.
Sand the back of the sponson so that it is flush and square
with the inside and outside, and flat.
Glue the bottom (BOTT) in place. Let the bottom
overhang 1/8 inch at the rear by aligning the etched line
with the back of the foam sponson.
The bottom sheet should be the only one to overhang at
the rear.
Allow an even overhang all around the bottom sheet.
Use tape tightly to hold the bottom sheet in place.
Repeat on the other sponson.
Double check that the etched line is at the back edge of
the foam, and you have some overhang all around.
Allow to cure.
7
Glue the sponson rear cap in place, sitting on the bottom
sheet. Tape in place.
When cured, sand flush with top and sides.
Be sure to leave the overhang on the bottom only.
Glue the top in place. Leave an even overhang all around.
Tape tightly until cured.
Repeat on the other side.
Once cured, sand all sides flush. Be sure to leave the
rear overhang.
All sheeting should be sanded flush, except the bottom. It
will have a 1/16 inch overhang when completed.
Sand the nose flat and flush with all sheeting.
Glue the pine nose block in place.
When cured, bevel and shape for desired look.
Repeat for the other sponson if you have not already done
so.
Trim any excess and sand with 220 on a block. The
sponsons are now ready for sealing.
You can round the corners on the outside of the sponson,
but leave the inside edges sharp.
You can give them a quick swipe with sandpaper to
lightly knock off the sharp edge, but don’t round them.
The rear overhang should be sharp, and not rounded in
any way.
Basically, any place that touches the water should have a
sharp edge.
8
Fuselage
As you remove parts from the sheet, sand off the little
bumps left by the holding tabs. They can interfere with
the fit in some cases.
Build the fuselage flat on your building board.
Use waxed paper to prevent the fuselage from sticking to
the bench.
We used medium CA glue for the entire fuselage.
You can also use Titebond or similar.
Glue bulkhead 4 to the tunnel floor. Glue bulkhead 5B,
then 5C to the floor.
Use a square on these bulkheads.
Be sure that 5C is perfectly aligned with 5B
Glue the two 1/8 sides to the 1/16 floor.
Use a square to make sure that the sides are 90 degrees to
the bench.
Be sure that the notches are fully seated in the bulkheads
you glued, as well as in the floor.
Add bulkheads 1 thru 3, locking them into the sides.
Both bulkhead 3 parts should have the number facing out
as shown.
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Glue 5A to the front of 5B.
Glue the center section 1/16 (radio box) sides in place.
They fit into slots in the floor, as well as tabs in the
bulkheads.
Make sure that all tabs are fully seated and that the
bottom meets the floor.
Try not to get any glue fillets on the outside of these
sides, as it will interfere with the installation of F6-F9.
One way to do this is with the glue fillet method,
using medium CA.
Install both 1/16 ply sides, snapping all tabs in place and
checking that everything is fully seated.
There is a lot going on, and there are tabs and slots
everywhere.
Once they are in place and fitted properly, run a bead of
CA inside the bottom.
Lift the side free of a bulkhead and put some glue in the
gap and press it together.
Do this for all bulkheads.
Only use glue on the inside, otherwise the next step will
be difficult.
Glue in F6, F7, F8 and F9.
They go against the center section on the outside, and
provide a gluing surface for the top deck sheeting.
Numbers go forward as shown.
You may have to sand or bevel these to fit over any glue
fillets.
Do it, as these must be fitted correctly or the top won't fit.
They should all sit flush with the top of all bulkheads.
They provide support for the deck sheeting.
10
Don't glue the top decks on yet. You need two coats of
sealer inside the fuselage and on the bottom of the decks.
Glue the radio box lips to the bottom of the radio box top.
Remove the radio box lid and sand the little bumps off.
Use only a very small bead of glue and attach one end,
the center pieces, then the other end.
Use the etched lines as a guide.
Clamp with paper clamps and allow to cure. Do not glue
to the boat yet.
We want to end up with a nice lip all around. This
prevents the lid from falling in…
Indice
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