Arduino MINI PRO 3.3V Manuale utente

ARDUINO MINI PRO 3.3V

User Manual

Introduction:

It’s a wild world out there in microcontroller-land, and you’re about to take your first step away from

the wonderful – though sometimes stifling – simplicity of the Arudino Pro Mini.

In this tutorial, we’ll go over how to set up and use the 3.3V Arduino Pro Mini, everything from

assembling the tiny Arduino to programming it.

To follow along, you’ll need a few extra items:

The FTDI Basic will be used to program (and power) the Pro Mini. The headers are optional, but

they’re our preferred way to interface other devices to the Pro Mini.

Assembly of the Pro Mini also requires soldering. This is a great place to start soldering, if you’ve

never done it before! The joints are all easy, through-hole jobs.

What It Is (and Isn't):

So what differentiates the Arduino Pro Mini from the Arduino Uno? Well, the most obvious difference

is the form factor. The Pro Mini’s pretty…mini, measuring in at just 1.3x0.70". It’s about ⅙th the size of

the Arduino Uno. The compact size is great for projects where you may need to fit the Arduino into a

tiny enclosure, but it also means that the Pro Mini is not physically compatible with Arduino

shields (you could still hard-wire the Mini up to any Arduino shield).

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The Mini packs almost as much microprocessor-punch as the regular Arduino, but there are a few

major hardware changes you should be aware of before you start adapting your project to the Mini.

The first glaring hardware difference is the voltage that the Mini operates at: 3.3V. Unlike the Arduino

Uno, which has both a 5V and 3.3V regulator on board, the Mini only has one regulator. This means

that if you’ve got peripherals that only work at 5V, you might have to do some level shifting before you

hook it up to the Pro Mini (or you could go for the 5V variant of the Pro Mini).

Comparing the size of a standard Arduino Uno with the (aptly named) Pro Mini.

Another major variation from the standard Arduino lies in the speed at which the ATmega328 runs.

The Pro Mini 3.3V runs at 8MHz, half the speed of an Arduino Uno. We put a slower resonator on the

Mini to guarantee safe operation of the ATmega. That said, don’t let the slower speed scare you away

from using the Mini; 8MHz is still plenty fast, and the Mini will still be capable of controlling almost

any project the Arduino Uno can.

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One last missing piece of hardware is the Atmega16U2-based USB-to-Serial converter, and the USB

connector that goes with it. All of the USB circuitry had to be eliminated for us to make the Pro Mini as

small as possible.

Schematic and Pin-out:

The schematic of the Pro Mini can be broken down into three blocks: the voltage regulator, the

ATmega328 and supporting circuitry, and the headers.

The Pro Mini’s pins surround three of the four sides. The pins on the short side are used for

programming, they match up to the FTDI Basic Breakout. The pins on the other two sides are an

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assortment of power and GPIO pins (just like the standard Arduino).

There are three different power-related pins: GND, VCC, and RAW. GND, obviously, is the

common/ground/0V reference. RAW is the input voltage that runs into the regulator. The voltage at

this input can be anywhere from 3.4 to 12V. The voltage at VCC is supplied directly to the Pro Mini, so

any voltage applied to that pin should already be regulated to 3.3V.

Four pins are actually not located on the edge of the board: A4, A5, A6 and A7. Each of these analog

pins is labeled on the back side of the board.

A4 and A5’s location may be very important if you plan on using I2C with the Pro Mini – those are the

hardware SDA and SCL pins.

Assembly:

The Arduino Pro Mini doesn’t look like much when you first get it; it’s as bare-bones as can be. We’ve

left it up to you to solder headers or wires into the open through-holes. There are a few things to make

you aware of though.

First, decide how you want to connect the FTDI Basic Breakout to the Pro Mini’s programming header.

The programming header is a row of six pins on the side of the board, labeled “BLK”, “GND”, “VCC”,

“RXI”, “TXO”, and “GRN”. Since the FTDI Basic board is equipped with a female header, it’s usually best

to equip your Mini’s programming header with mating male headers, either straight or right-angle.

This Pro Mini had male headers soldered into all pins, so it could slot directly into a breadboard.

Notice the programming header pins are soldered “upside-down”, to keep them accessible.

The remaining assembly choices are up to you. There are many options; you could solder in male

headers to make it breadboard-compatible, female headers to make it compatible with jumper wires,

or just solder standard-wire straight into the pins.

Versatility is what makes this board so great, and you can assemble it in whatever way makes the

most sense for your project.

Powering:

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The most important factor in any project is how to power it. The Pro Mini doesn’t have a barrel jack,

or any other obvious way to connect a power supply, so how do you power the thing?

Pick a power source that suits your project. If you want something that matches the compactness of

the Pro Mini, a battery – LiPo, alkaline, coin cell, etc. – may be a good choice. Or you could use a wall

power supply along with a barrel jack adapter.

If you have a supply that’s greater than 3.3V (but less than 12V), you’ll want to connect that to

the RAW pin on the Mini. This pin is akin to the VIN pin, or even the barrel jack, on the Arduino Uno.

The voltage applied here is regulated to 3.3V before it gets to the processor.

If you already have a regulated 3.3V source from somewhere else in your project, you can connect that

directly to the VCC pin. This will bypass the regulator and directly power the ATmega328. Don’t forget

to connect the grounds (GND) too!

There is a third power option that’s only usually available while you’re programming the Pro Mini.

The FTDI Basic Breakout can be used to power the Mini via your computer’s USB port. Keep in mind

that this option may not be available when your project has entered the wild, absent from any

computers or USB supplies.

That leads us to the next section…programming the Arduino Pro Mini.

Programming:

If you’ve never used an Arduino before (how bold of you to go straight for the Mini!), you’ll need

to download the IDE.

The first time you plug the FTDI Basic Breakout in, you may need to install drivers for it.

Once both Arduino and the FTDI drivers are installed, it’s time to get programming. We’ll start by

uploading everyone’s favorite sketch: Blink. Open up Arduino, then open the Blink sketch by going

File > Examples > 01.Basics > Blink

Before we can upload the sketch to the Mini, you’ll need to tell Arduino what board you’re using. Go

Tools > Board

and select Arduino Pro or Pro Mini.

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Then, go back up to Tools > Processor and select ATmega328 (3.3V, 8MHz). This tells Arduino to

compile the code with an 8MHz clock speed in mind, that way the delay(1000); calls will actually

delay one second.

You’ll next need to tell Arduino which serial port your FTDI Basic Breakout has been assigned to. On

Windows this will be something like COM2, COM3, etc. On Mac it’ll look something

/dev/tty.usbserial-A6006hSc

Finally, you’re all set to upload the sketch to your Mini. Click on the Upload button (the right-pointing

arrow). After a few moments you should see the red and green RX/TX LEDs on your FTDI board flash,

followed by a “Done Uploading” message in Arduino’s status bar. Voilà, Blinky! The Mini may be

missing a few components, but it’s got the most important component: LEDs!

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