Autocom Kit SP-A Manuale utente

1x Super Pro Automatic, bike powered, logical mixing and control hub unit

1x Rider’s noise cancelling stereo headset with plug-in ambient noise sensor

1x Passenger’s noise cancelling stereo headset

2x Coiled headset extension leads

1x Deluxe bike fitting kit with on-bike socket holders and dust caps

1x Standard 2000mm phone leads

1x Standard 2000mm stereo music lead

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

and WARRANTY

It is very important that you fully read and understand all of

these instructions before installation and use.

This system is designed for domestic motorcycle use only.

2015

2110

2113

2138

2422

2176

2245

Kit SP-A includes:

Kit SP-A

Super Pro Automatic

HUB

IMPORTANT NOTE:

PLEASE ASK your supplier to personally check with you that this kit contains ALL the parts listed

above before you leave the shop!

Autocom UK has carefully checked that all of the parts listed above are supplied in this kit at the

time of packing and shipping; however we also train our suppliers to check and confirm with you (in

the shop) that you have all of these listed parts supplied in your kit before leaving the shop. Because

of this thorough triple check quality control method Autocom UK cannot accept any claims for

missing parts once you have left the shop.

This product is intended for sale ONLY from authorised retail premises by trained authorised

Autocom dealers, where your supplier has provided you with high quality hands on demonstration

and advice about the products before you purchase. This product is not to be sold/purchased via

mail order etc or from any dealer who has not/or cannot provide you with high quality face to face

hands on demonstration and after sales service and support.

If this product was supplied to you by mail order, we ask that you please contact

[email protected] or telephone: +44 (0)1926 431249 and let us know who your supplier

was, such that we can ensure that ALL of our customers receive the highest standards of supply and

support that our customers, products and brand deserves.

Please fill in and return the product registration on the inside back cover.

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 1

Thank you for choosing Autocom. Your Super Pro Automatic system is designed, built and fully tested

to be the very best, and provide you with many years of very high quality use and performance if

installed and used as described in these instructions.

Please take the time to fully read and understand these instructions before installation and use and feel

free to ask your Autocom dealer for advice, or call our help-line if anything is not perfectly clear and

understandable. Telephone: +44 (0)1926 431249 (UK). Email: [email protected].uk

It is very important to properly set up and use these products as designed. Please do not make any

modifications or try to use your system with any non recommended products or in any other way than

described. Do not cut or modify your helmets.

It is common sense and the law in some countries that the rider of a vehicle be in control at all times,

which includes the ability to hear other road users warnings. As such the RIDER should not have the

music volume so loud as to prevent this. Safety should always be your first priority and is ultimately

the responsibility of the rider. Make sure that the quick release connectors are free to quick release in

the event of an emergency. Do not fix or tape them together.

The rider should only make adjustments while stationary, never while in motion. Always focus your

attention to riding and safety and do not use the system in such a way as to interfere with this. The

added ability to communicate between rider and passenger and/or with other riders on other bikes can

considerably improve your safety, so become familiar with using the system to provide good advice

and/or warnings etc.

The Super Pro Automatic hub system supplied in Kit SP-A is designed for 12 volt bike powered use,

providing unlimited duration and ultra high quality and performance. Hi-Fi quality stereo headsets with

plug-in true noise cancelling boom microphones, rugged water resistant headset leads and connectors,

5 Aux connections (4 of which are stereo) and options for a single or twin plug-in stereo remote

Bluetooth module/s which can connect to between one and four wireless Bluetooth devices.

The innovative logical mixing and automatic control design provides a rider and passenger with

seamless integration with various optional audio devices such as; bike to bike radio (some of which can

also be bike powered) GPS (including stereo GPS), two or more phones (including stereo phones) two

or more stereo music devices, and/or radar detectors etc, simply by selecting the optional parts to suit

your specific needs. It is designed and sold this way to save you cost, as to include all possible

parts/options for every potential variation would not be practical or cost effective. Your Autocom dealer

should be able to help you choose what optional parts you may require.

Key features which set Autocom apart from other brands include;

•

Autocom’s ultra high quality and performance, with Autocom logical mixing and control

•

Fully automatic (self sensing and adjusting) volume and VOX level controls. (Can be set to manual

where preferred)

•

Fully independent rider and passenger VOX sensitivity controls

•

Fully independent rider and passenger master volume controls

•

Front/rear stereo music fader pre-set control

•

User selectable automatic audio reduction

•

Rider’s headset lead with on-bike socket holder and water resistant dust caps

•

Passenger’s headset lead with on-bike socket holder and water resistant dust caps

•

Plug-in removable bike power lead and bike fitting kit

•

Reverse polarity and thermal overload protection

Autocom systems are track tested to over 180mph during development, where they are tuned to

provide superior performance. Each part is fully tested before it leaves the UK factory and set such

that most users will simply power, connect up and use straight out of the box without the need to

make any adjustments.

Some people may need a little more time or extra help to get used to the system, in particular to the

importance of correct microphone and speaker positioning, so please be patient and if in any doubt

do not hesitate to ask for help. If your system is not performing as you would expect or as we claim

it should, then the most likely cause is incorrect installation or use, in particular microphone and

speaker positioning.

These instructions have been designed to try to help you get the most out of your system, but if it does

not exceed your expectations then we want to help. You are welcome to visit our factory at anytime,

Monday to Friday, 09.00 to 17.30 plus Saturdays by appointment. If you cannot get to our factory then

please contact Autocom, your dealer or distributor; details available on our website: www.autocom.co.uk

Autocom systems have been rated the very best for over 16 years, having won every credible media

back to back test, and not just by a bit, but by miles. This all new Super Pro Automatic system sets

completely new standards and is by far our very best Super Pro development to date, which we think

you will agree: says it all.

If you have read these instructions, typically it should take approximately between 20 minutes to 3

hours to complete a bike and two helmet fittings.

We hope you like this product and enjoy it for many years to come, as much as we have enjoyed

designing and building it for you.

Tom Beman (MD)

Autocom Products Limited

CONGRATULATIONS

SAFETY FIRST

OVERVIEW

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 2

Aux 3 •

designed for Rider’s Stereo Phone

Aux 4 •

designed for Stereo Music

Incoming audio is amplified only to the rider’s headset, but can be switched for both rider and

passenger use. Incoming audio automatically cuts the stereo music on Aux 4 by 100% and reduces

bike-to-bike audio on Aux 1, plus stereo GPS audio on Aux 2 to 50% to improve phone conversation;

while at the same time it also disables the bike-to-bike VOX transmit mode to prevent your phone

conversation been broadcast to other bikes. *Some phones may require a hands free adaptor.

Optional, remote, Single or Twin Stereo Bluetooth Module/s

Connects into Aux 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Each of the stereo Bluetooth modules lets you connect wirelessly to one or two Bluetooth devices, so

long as one is using hands free profile (such as a mobile phone or GPS, etc) and the other uses

advanced audio profile (A2DP, such as stereo devices, mp3 players, etc). The twin Bluetooth module

lets you connect to between 1 and 4 Bluetooth devices.

Ultra High Quality and Performance Rider and Passenger Noise Cancelling Headsets

When either person speaks, their I-VOX system automatically turns their microphone on, reducing the

stereo music on Aux 4 and transmits the bike-to-bike radio, for safer hands free use. When you stop

speaking the microphone automatically turns off and the music gently glides back to its normal level.

High quality, robust, on-bike leads (and coiled extension leads) are custom designed for easy, safe and

comfortable use. Built to last but also easy to service or replace. Neat on-bike rubber socket holders

with water resistant dust caps provide that professional finishing touch.

Automatic gain control compensates for varying noise/speed conditions and the stereo audio can be

faded between the rider and passenger headsets. Rider and passenger speech plus audio from Aux 1

and 2 automatically reduce the stereo music on Aux 4 to 50%, while audio from Aux 3 fully cuts the

music for improved conversations (auto reduction and/or auto gain control can be switched off for

improved earplug use).

Aux 5 •

designed for Passenger’s Stereo/Phone

Incoming audio is amplified only to the passenger’s headset, but can be switched to both rider and

passenger. Incoming audio has no effect to any other Aux connections so that the passenger can enjoy

their own stereo music without disruption to other inputs or outputs. We recommend using the optional

remote PTT if using a bike-to-bike radio, so that you can manually disable the VOX transmit mode when

the passenger is using their phone.

CONNECTIVITY • LOGICAL MIXING AND CONTROL

Aux 1 •

designed for Bike-to-Bike

Both rider and passenger’s speech automatically transmits the bike-to-bike radio thanks to the I-VOX,

providing easy and safe hands free use. Incoming bike to bike audio on Aux 1 automatically reduces

the stereo audio levels on Aux 2 and Aux 4 to 50% to improve speech clarity. (Auto reduction can be

switched off). When the phone is in use on Aux 3 it disables the bike to bike VOX transmit function so

that your phone conversations are not broadcast out to the other bikes, which allows the other bikes

to continue with bike to bike communications while you are on the phone. The system can also bike

power some recommended bike-to-bike radios, plus take advantage of the optional handlebar remote

control, to disable the VOX transmit mode providing privacy for rider-to-passenger communications,

and then transmit bike-to-bike messages at any time by either pressing the press-to-talk (PTT) button,

or toggle back to the normal VOX transmit mode. When the phone is in use and disables the VOX

transmit function, the remote control PTT button lets you over-ride this so that you can transmit to

other bikes even when on the phone.

Aux 2 •

designed for Stereo GPS

Incoming audio on Aux 2 automatically reduces the stereo music level on Aux 4 to 50% to improve

speech clarity, while automatic gain control compensates for varying noise/speeds and the stereo audio

can be faded between the rider and passenger headsets (auto reduction and/or auto gain control can

be switched off for improved earplug use). You can use some phones via some GPS units, but in most

cases you lose the important GPS audio and safety camera warnings while using the phone through a

GPS. This is why we provide separate GPS and phone connectivity to manage this better for you.

Harder

Softer

Less

Rear

Front

Harder

Softer

Lower

Higher

Lower

Higher

A range of optional accessories lets you personalise your expandable system.

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 3

Having read this manual completely and checked any questions with your dealer, you should

now be ready to trial fit and power your main control hub and test to ensure it is completely free from

any electrical interference. Then test and understand how to use the headsets properly before installing

them into your helmets. Then use your helmet/s (leaving your hands free) to listen for any electrical

noise during installing and testing of any audio interfaces/devices, then do the final set up and road test.

Before fully installing the SP-A main control hub unit on your bike (or in a tank bag etc),

carefully think it through. There are many ways in which you can install your system but there is usually

only one way which is best for you and/or your bike. It is easy to get carried away and do a complete

installation only to then find problems at the end and not know the cause or how to resolve them. If

you follow these instructions carefully you should avoid (or find and cure) any problems during the

installation, meaning you only need to do it once.

Please note; the SP-A main control hub unit is splash resistant; it is designed not to be completely

sealed so as to allow it to breathe. It is however internally protected from damp and the odd splash, so

please consider its location carefully in order to help prevent excessive water contamination. For

example, do not position it where water will be forced in under pressure, such as in the front of the bikes

faring, or under a wheel arch etc. Look for locations, say under the seat or in a tank bag or wherever

you are sure it will not get soaking wet. Of course reasonable care should also be taken when washing

the bike, especially if you use a jet wash. You may cover the control box with a bag etc when washing,

but remove the bag afterwards to ensure the unit can breathe or you may cause damage if it is allowed

to build up excessive condensation. If you do not feel you can position the main control unit where it will

not get excessively wet, please ask your dealer about the optional water protector cover.

GETTING STARTED

Position the main control hub unit where you think you would prefer it to

go. Then trial fit the headset leads, plus any other audio interface leads

(and audio devices) to make sure they will all reach and connect together,

and adjust as required. Note; the rider’s headset (with ambient

noise sensor) MUST BE USED with the riders lead (as marked on the

control box label). Think about cable lengths and where they will run,

trying to avoid any sharp edges or seat pressure points/catches where

cables may get trapped or crushed, and areas of potential electrical

interference such as spark plugs and HT lead/coils, and the voltage

regulator (normally a metal finned box bolted to the bikes frame) and areas

of high heat such as engine and exhaust systems. Check with your dealer

or our website www.autocom.co.uk for specific bike installation tips.

Mounting the main control unit under the seat (as most people

do) is normally near the rear light cluster in the tail unit and fixed down

with Velcro to stop it sliding about (but also making it easy to remove

for access if required). The riders lead (longest) will typically come

along the bikes frame and out between the seat and tank (between the

riders legs). If required you can use an optional straight headset

extension lead so that it will reach under the tank and then come out

near to the front of the tank/headstock area. The rider will use one of

the coiled headset extension leads (supplied in kit SP-A) to connect

between the riders headset and the bike mounted socket (providing

two safety release points in case of an emergency or should you ever

forget to unplug when leaving the bike). The passenger lead will

normally exit near to the rear of the seat, (often close to the passenger

grab handle where fitted).

Mounting the main control box in a tank bag, using one of the

optional two part bike power leads with in-line connectors, the riders lead

will easily reach directly from the unit in the tank-bag to the riders

headset, without needing to use the coiled extension lead. The

passenger’s headset will connect via the coiled extension lead (supplied)

directly to the main hub unit’s passenger lead, with it just hanging out of

the tank bag. Or you may prefer to use an optional straight 2000mm

headset extension lead that connects to the units passengers lead

(hanging just outside of the front of the tank bag, near the headstock,

next to the power lead connector) which runs under the bikes tank and

seat and then exits by the rear of the seat (near to the grab handle where

fitted) so that the passenger can use the coiled headset lead supplied to

connect from their helmet to their on-bike socket. Please ask your dealer

about optional headset extension leads and various two part power leads

that are available if required.

When you have checked and concluded where you want to mount the

main control hub unit, including running both headset leads, power

lead and any audio leads etc, you can now connect the power lead to

the bike and test/move if required before finally using some Velcro and tie-wraps to fix in place.

Top Tips (1)

Where you route the cables along the frame of the bike etc, secure them as required using tie wraps.

Care should be taken to ensure that the cables cannot fall into the chain, wheel or foul the steering

etc, or be trapped or crushed by the seat or body panels. If required use some hard packing strips

either side of the cables to prevent damaging the cables at pressure points such as where the cables

come from under the seat between the tank and body panels etc, if required bond the packing strips

in place but only after you are sure of the final location. Avoid any sharp angles or edges, which may

damage or cut the cables.

Pay particular attention to the seat locking mechanism, which, if fouled could cause problems with

removing the seat. When using tie wraps please be careful not to over tighten them, taking extra

care to avoid brake-lines, breathers, overflow pipes etc. and when you cut the surplus off any tie

wraps remember to cut it short and square so that it reduces any sharp edges that may scratch you

when servicing or washing the bike.

TRIAL FIT AND CHECK THE MAIN CONTROL HUB

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 4

Always connect the BLACK (negative) wire directly to the battery negative terminal using the crimped

eyelet supplied, as this is the best earth on the bike. Not using the battery earth/NEGATIVE is the

most likely cause for electrical interference issues.

Connect the RED (Positive) wire to a recommended, switched ignition fused supply (5 amps

maximum, unless you fit an additional in-line fuse of between 3 and 5 amps). Ask your bike supplier if

they know of any recommended accessory power points on the bike, or consult your bikes handbook,

but only use this for the positive supply.

Typical places to find an ignition switched fused supply are the positive feed to the tail lights,

or rear brake light switch. Ask your bike dealer if you are not completely sure. Please note that you

can split the red and black power cable as required and cut them to length but don’t do this until you

make the final installation/connection, remember that you may need to move the system to a better

location to avoid electrical noise after testing, or perhaps someday onto another bike, so leave plenty of

spare power lead neatly coiled up and secured with a tie-wrap so that it can never fall onto the exhaust

or back wheel/chain etc. Do not connect to the brake light circuit if your bike has ABS braking and/or a

brake light failure warning system (consult your bike supplier/ manufacturer for approval before

connecting to any ABS brake light circuit or bikes that have CANbus). If connection to the brake light

supply circuit or rear tail light is not recommended, please use some other recommended fused/ignition

switched 12 volt supply. Always solder the positive joint wherever possible as this provides a more

professional and reliable connection. Do not use quick connectors like scotch-locks etc. These are nearly

always unreliable and most bike manufacturers condemn their use, which may also affect the bikes

warranty. You will notice the supplied fitting kit includes items which will assist in installation e.g. tie

wraps, insulation amalgamating tape to cover the soldered positive joint, (again don’t use this for the

pre-install test) a crimp type eyelet for connection to battery negative terminal, Velcro to fix the control

box and if required also speakers into helmet. For added safety and protection the system has reverse

polarity protection, which means that it reduces the risk of damage if you accidentally wire the power

lead the wrong way around, however, the unit will not function unless wired correctly. The system also

has short circuit and thermal overload protection, which means the unit will automatically shut down in

the event of being overloaded e.g. incorrect transceiver used or improper connections.

Ask your dealer about optional Part 2437 which can help solve problems if you suffer from electrical noise.

WARNING; extreme caution must be used when working with bike batteries, due to the very high

current capacity of the battery, which if shorted; between the battery terminals, or between the battery

positive terminal and ground (the bike frame eetc.) there is a very high risk burns, fire or explosion.

Identify the rider’s headset speaker harness, which has TWO RED mini connectors. Connect the

rider’s headset via one of the coiled headset extension leads supplied to the riders lead on the

main control hub, also connect the passengers headset via the other coiled extension lead to the

passengers lead on the main control hub. DO NOT connect either of the boom microphones, or

the rider’s ambient noise sensor (ANS) just yet, or any other audio interface leads to the

main control hub.

Set the rider and passenger master volume controls FULLY anti-clockwise (to their lowest

levels). Set all the other controls on the front panel to their central positions (so that the pointers on

the end of the knobs point to their corresponding pointers on the label).

Start the bike in a well ventilated area, after checking that no parts will fall off onto a hot exhaust etc.

Hold the rider’s headset speakers firmly and directly over both ear holes (noting the centre of each

speaker is slightly offset in the plastic housings) and listen carefully for any electrical interference

through the speakers. HT (sparkplug/leads and coils etc) may induce a rapid tick, tick, tick noise which

changes with engine RPM. Alternator noise if heard is normally a higher frequency constant whine,

which again changes with engine RPM, so try to vary the engine RPM while listening carefully through

the speakers for any induced electrical noise. It should be completely clean and in which case you can

now turn the rider’s volume control fully clockwise (FULL VOLUME) and do the same test again, it should

be completely clean. Now do the same tests using the passenger headset to again prove it is complete

clear of any electrical interference. It is very unlikely that you will hear any electrical interference while

doing these tests, but if you do you should carefully move the lead/s about, one at a time, and/or the

main control hub unit, while still listening to the speakers with the engine running at varying RPM to

identify which part is picking up the noise and then move it to a clean noise free location.

When you have done this and are happy with the location of the main control hub unit, headset leads

and power leads, you can switch the engine off and Velcro the main control hub unit into place, tie-

wrap the headset leads and power lead neatly in place, double checking to avoid any problems

areas as mentioned in Top Tips (1).

When fitting the socket holders to the bike, ensure all surfaces are flat, clean, dry and free from grease

and wax. Note: sockets are designed to tear off if pulled for safety purposes.

We strongly recommend that you test your headsets out of the helmet (before installation)

to make it easier for you to experience how even small movements in microphone and speaker

positioning can considerably reduce or improve the sound quality and ease of use. With this knowledge

you will have a benchmark to work to during final helmet installation later and be sure you are getting

the very best out of your system. Do not use earplugs during this test as they will hide and/or disguise

much of what we are trying to listen for.

Avoid pressure directly to the front or back covers of the microphones as this could cause

damage. The microphone is floating in an acoustically dampening material to help prevent any helmet

vibration being transmitted through the boom to the microphone as part of the noise cancelling

measures. To move or adjust the microphone please hold it by the outer edges or rubber neck, making

sure that the beige side of the fabric sits flat against and central to your lips. Try to avoid the

microphone covers touching the Velcro on the back of the speakers.

Turn both the rider and passenger master volume controls fully anti-clockwise (to their lowest volume

settings). Connect one of the boom microphones to the riders headset loom, noting the red connector

will only connect together if aligned the right way round, making sure that it clicks right in, and do the

same for the riders ambient noise sensor (ANS).

CONNECTING THE POWER LEAD TO THE BIKE

TEST THE PRE-INSTALLATION FOR ANY ELECTRICAL

NOISE, AND MOVE PARTS IF REQUIRED BEFORE FIXING

UNDERSTANDING THE HEADSETS BEFORE HELMET INSTALLATION

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 5

The microphone has a critical loud-spot which is the point where it produces the maximum energy

from your speech into the system with the least amount of effort. The system has been carefully

designed and tuned around using the loud-spot (as part of its superior noise cancellation design) so it

is important that you understand and use this loud-spot correctly.

Turn the bikes ignition on, after again checking and

making sure that no parts will fall onto the hot

exhaust etc. Get your assistant to hold one of the

passenger headset speakers over their ear, so that

they can monitor and learn what you are

experiencing, and also get them to hold the riders

headset ambient noise sensor, ready to blow hard

into the end.

While holding one of the riders headset speakers

over your own ear, place the BEIGE SIDE of your

microphone AGAINST YOUR LIPS and without

shouting, project your voice positively through it,

as if to someone 3 meters (10’) away. Try gently

moving the microphone around (with it still

touching your lips) while making a continuous

positive tone noise to find the microphone LOUD

SPOT (the loudest point).

You will know when you have found and used the

microphone loud spot because your voice will

reliably activate your VOX, and you know when

you have reliably activated your VOX because the

system has SIDE-TONE which amplifies your own

voice through your own speakers, but only when

activating your VOX, thus providing you with audio

confirmation of correct microphone and VOX use.

Remember; if you can hear your own voice

amplified through your own speakers then you are

operating your VOX and so you know that others

will be hearing what you hear.

Note; at the moment, while in relatively low noise

conditions, it is not so critical to find and use the

microphone loud-spot because the ambient noise

sensor (ANS) is not picking much noise up and so

the systems automatic VOX level control is set

very low to make is very easy to activate VOX,

however when you are riding at higher speeds and

in more noisier conditions, the ANS will detect this

extra noise and automatically adjust the VOX level

up to prevent helmet noise from accidently turning

the VOX on, at which time you will find it far more

important to use the critical microphone loud spot

properly and project your voice more positively through it, in order to reliably operate the higher VOX

setting. Of course when you are riding in higher noise conditions you will naturally (and without even

thinking about it) raise your voice and find operating the higher VOX level no harder than it is now, so

long as you use the important microphone loud spot.

To demonstrate this, so that you know what to expect, use the microphone loud-spot and count to

twenty, but when you get to about 6 get your assistant to blow hard into the end of the ambient noise

sensor. Notice how when the noise on the sensor made the VOX level rise you had to project more voice

energy into the microphone, and using the loud-spot became more important in order to help you keep

the VOX open. This is why finding and using the microphone loud spot is so important. The benefits of

what you are experiencing are that you have the most reliable and easiest to use VOX system available.

Remember; at the moment you are not in high noise conditions and so are not naturally raising your

voice as you would be when riding the bike at higher speeds, and so you have to think and force

yourself to speak louder to operate a higher VOX level. It will become natural when riding the bike. The

side-tone not only provides important audio confirmation of correct VOX and microphone loud-spot use,

but also lets you hear how loud you are speaking relative to helmet noise, and so helps you to naturally

speak at a relevant level according to varying noise conditions, which prevents unnecessary shouting.

It is important that you do NOT set your master volume control any higher than actually

required (too far clockwise) because if the level of your own voice amplified to you own speakers is

too loud, it makes you want to speak at a lower level, which may not be enough to operate the VOX

properly. Setting your master volume control to an adequate level (that’s not any higher than required)

makes using the system much easier and more reliable. If you need to alter any other audio input

levels then this should be done using the audio devices own volume control, and not by using the

master volume controls. After setting everything up only use the master volume controls to compensate

for using earplugs, monitor ear plugs or no earplugs.

Top Tips (2)

Fine tune and perfect using the microphone loud-spot by listening to the sound of your voice through

the speakers while carefully moving the microphone around until it is at its very loudest point. Also

try this while someone is blowing onto the ANS and notice how it can help if you pucker your lips to

the microphone as if kissing it, while speaking. After a short while this all becomes natural, especially

when riding the bike in more noisy conditions.

If you are now comfortable with finding and using the microphone loud spot and operating the VOX

reliably, even when someone blows hard on to the ANS, turn the ignition off while we now help you

experience the importance of speaker positioning.

MICROPHONE LOUD SPOT POSITIONING AND USE

You must speak into

the beige side of the

microphone





Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 6

WARNING; because the system is capable of being VERY LOUD for use with earplugs CAUTION

should be used when turning the volume control clockwise above the mid-way position unless you are

using conventional earplugs.

Ideally you want to play one of your most favourite pieces of music through the system that has rich sounds

and plenty of bass, being something you can identify with later when testing the helmet installation.

Set the rider and passenger master volume controls to their centre positions, so that the

pointer on the end of each knob, point to the corresponding pointer on the lid label (this is

typically plenty of volume for up to about 120mph without earplugs).

Plug the 3 pole end of the stereo music lead (supplied in the kit) into your music devices headset socket

and connect the 4 pole end into Aux 4 socket of your hub.

Top Tips (3)

Make sure that you plug your music lead into the music systems headset socket and not the line out

socket, or the volume control may not work.

Turn the ignition on (note you

need to wait about 20 seconds

before the music will be heard)

Adjust the music devices volume

control to about half way and

then press play. Listen to check

that the music is not too loud and

adjust as required using the

music devices volume control

before holding the speakers

directly and firmly over your

ears.

Note that the speakers are

slightly off-set in their housings

so try to align the centre of the

speakers directly with centre of

your ear-holes (with the wire

coming out towards the back of

your head). Apply light pressure

to the back of the speakers and

you should now hear the music

very clearly.

Now try to generate as much

background noise as you possibly

can, either by revving the bikes

engine or using a loud TV, hi-fi

system or perhaps a noisy

vacuum cleaner etc, or even all of

them together, as this ambient

noise will simulate helmet noise

as if riding

Listen to the speakers again with them correctly positioned over your ears and you should hear the

music clearly with virtually no outside noise being heard. This is the ideal speaker positioning and you

will notice that moving the speakers just a small amount away from your ears, or out of alignment (up,

down, backwards or forwards) can easily half the volume and reduce the sound quality, in particular

the bass response, and let considerable external background noise in which will spoil the full potential

of sound quality and performance, especially at higher background noise levels (higher speeds), or

when using earplugs.

When you have readjusted the speaker positioning, lightly pressed comfortably over your ears, so that

the music quality is at its very best and you can hear the least amount of background noise coming

through, you have found the best possible speaker positioning and so you now know what to aim

for when fine tuning the speaker positioning after helmet installation.

If you now hold the microphone to your lips and project your voice positively through the loud spot, the

VOX turns your microphone on while at the same time automatically reducing the music level to about

50% to improve communications. When you stop speaking the microphones automatically switch off

and the music gently returns to its original level. Practice this a few times to become familiar with it,

and show your passenger what you have discovered. If while listening to the music your assistant blows

hard on the ANS again, you will hear the music level increase and again if you speak positively into the

microphone loud-spot you will hear the music reduce, and then gently return to normal within a few

seconds after you stop speaking

Top Tips (4)

It’s sometimes a bit tricky holding three parts with only two hands so try pressing one ear to your

shoulder with the speaker in between, leaving your hands free for the other speaker and boom

microphone, or get someone to assist with holding the microphone for you.

SPEAKER POSITIONING

Centre of

speaker

Note that wire

normally comes out

towards back

Centre of ear hole

Centre of

ear hole

Centre of

speaker

Centre of ear

hole

Avoid speaker

near top of ear

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 7

Because Autocom systems work so much better than other brands, it is easy for people to think its

working great even when it’s not set up and used properly and only giving you perhaps 30% of what

is really has to offer. This is why we recommend that you to test the headset out of the helmet with

some music, so that after installation you can hear if it sounds right and adjust as required. Using music

is the best way of hearing this, even if you do not intend using music in future. If you install and adjust

one helmet first, you can then check the installation against the other headset (out of the helmet) held

properly in place.

The plug-in boom microphone/s supplied in the kit is our most universal boom designed to fit most full

face, flip front and open face helmets, but please note; most open face and enduro/moto-cross style

helmets, including flip-front helmets if you want to ride with it open, will require the optional open

face conversion kit (Part 2156) to prevent excessive direct wind blast getting to the microphone. The

headset is not designed to work with 1⁄2helmets (Chip style) which normally require a much longer

boom and perhaps some additional padding to mount the speakers over your ears. Replacement

consumable microphone coverings (Part 2166) and replacement consumable foam speaker covers (Part

2155) are available from your dealer. The optional long boom microphone (Part 2075) is similar to our

standard boom microphone but is 35mm (13⁄8”) longer and is ideal for larger open face helmets.

There are far too many different helmet types available to be able to fully describe every possible

installation here, and one must also consider that each year various helmet designs change, so these

instructions are designed as a basic guide only. Please see your local Autocom dealer or visit our website

www.autocom.co.uk for more detailed specific helmet installations. Most authorised Autocom dealers

are experienced with helmet fitting.

Please note; helmets that have straps that go directly over your ears may not lend themselves for a

good headset installation, as the speakers have to sit either on top or behind the straps, which can

make them uncomfortable or out of position which will reduce the sound quality. This is beyond our

control and if our speakers do not fit then nor will any others. It is a good idea to remember this next

time you choose a helmet. You can overcome this problem by using optional in-ear speaker plugs that

can replace the standard over the ear type speakers. Consider optional Part 2091 which allows

you to use most types of monitor (in-ear speaker plugs) with your system.

Some helmets may not lend themselves to be installed as we have suggested and so may require

alternative methods. Please take plenty of time to carefully consider all these basic principles, together

with the installation diagrams and your own helmet design to see if you can establish any similarities

that may help you with installation. If you are unsure about any of the above then please contact your

supplier or Autocom for help and advice. DO NOT CUT YOUR HELMET!

Put the helmet on and try to work out exactly where the centre of each ear hole is relative to the straps

or any seams etc in the lining, and also while doing this try to find and mark the exact location of the

centre of your lips inside the chin pad with the helmet sat in its natural position.

When you have established these positions within the helmet you are then ready to start the

headset installation/s.

Top Tips (5)

When installing the headset into the helmet place the helmet on a soft towel etc, so as to help stop

it sliding about and/or getting scratched. You may notice that most people’s ear holes are between

25mm (1”) and 32mm (11⁄2”) below the top of their ears, and that most people’s top of their ears

are about in-line with their eyebrows. If you look at someone’s face through the helmets visor area,

you can reference their eyebrow position to the helmet and then assist them with working out the

approximate position below this for their ear holes. If they can then also feel and then reference the

approximate horizontal position of their ear holes relative to the straps etc, it will provide a good

starting point for speaker positioning, but always start with the speakers low for maximum comfort

and then slowly lift them up until you obtain the maximum sound quality.

HEADSET INSTALLATION

Example of an open face helmet Example of a full face helmet

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 8

View from underside

of three part type

helmet

View from

underside

of one part type

helmet

Remove

straps and

lift out complete

The fabric is either taped, glued or

elasticated over the foam/polystyrene

and so it is easy to install the speakers

behind the lining. Note that the wire

should come out of the speaker towards

the back of the helmet.

Before replacing the cheek pads, tape

the boom and the headset loom to the

outer shell or the back side of the

cheek pad. When the cheek pad is fitted

back into the helmet, it will secure the

boom and loom inside the helmet.

Do not modify the helmet.

The fabric is either taped, glued or

elasticated over the foam/polystyrene

and so it is easy to install the speakers

behind the lining. Note that the wire

should come out of the speaker towards

the back of the helmet.

Before replacing the cheek pads, tape

the boom and the headset loom to the

outer shell or the back side of the cheek

pad. When the cheek pad is fitted back

into the helmet, it will secure the boom

and loom inside the helmet.

Do not modify the helmet.

BASIC PRINCIPLE HOW HELMETS ARE ASSEMBLED

Three Part Inner Helmet Design

There are two main types of typical full face helmet designs, one is a one part chin and cheek

pad design, per the illustration at the bottom of this page, the other and more popular type is a three

part chin/cheek pad design, per the illustration below.

Most full face helmets do not have the cheek pads glued in and are just a compression fit, which makes

them much easier to remove (although some are quite tight).

For more details of open face or flip front helmets please see our website www.autocom.co.uk

One Part Inner Helmet Design

Boom microphone assembly

Peel back tape and lining, slide

speaker inside pushing it right

up to the strap hole

Return assembly as removed Tape to hold

in place

Remove

straps and lift out

each cheek pad

individually

Boom

microphone

assembly

Tape boom to outer shell

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 9

Decide which side of the helmet

you would prefer the lead and

plug to hang from (normally the

left side) and then release and

remove that side’s cheek pad so

as to allow you fit the boom

microphone and main speaker

harness behind it, with the boom

coming up from behind the cheek

pad, up into the visor area and

then bent down (from between

the outer shell and back of the

cheek pad) in front of your

mouth. Remember you must

position the microphone so

that you speak into the beige

side. If required fix the boom

and also the main harness down

lead to the inside of the outer

shell of the helmet using some of

the Velcro supplied in the kit,

which is usually very good for

this purpose so long as where

applied is completely clean and

dry (A).

Plan where you want to position

the ambient noise sensor

(ANS). The typical positions are either between the head lining and cheek pad (B), near the visor area

or somewhere in between the neck draught excluder and helmet lining (C).

Depending on how much helmet noise gets to the ANS you will need to adjust and calibrate the system

to compensate, using the Auto volume pre-set sensitivity control on the main units front panel.

However you should avoid placing the ANS where water will be forced directly into it at high speeds,

and do not position the ANS too close to the helmet speakers or users mouth so as to prevent these

delivering any sound that may cause the automatic volume/VOX to adjust up.

While the cheek pad is removed you can see if the fabric is taped, glued or preferably elasticated

behind it.

MICROPHONE AND AMBIENT NOISE SENSOR (ANS) INSTALLATION

Top Tips (6)

Avoid crossing any wires with another or with the boom as this will create a higher than necessary

spot which may make it difficult to replace the cheek pad.

If your helmet has an air vent in the chin-bar (in front of your mouth) it is a good idea to cover and

seal this from the inside of the chin-bar so that the wind is not able to blast directly onto the back

of the microphone. This also helps to force more of the airflow up into the visor area which can often

make demisting the visor more effective for you.

With the microphone positioned close to your mouth, you may notice that it just clips your nose

when putting the helmet on and off. You can avoid this by learning a technique of slightly twisting

the helmet so that the boom clears your nose while putting the helmet on or off.

Picture showing loom and boom assembly within a full face

helmet.

B C

ANS ANS

Super Pro Auto Instructions 8/5/09 2:24 pm Page 10

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