Blichmann Engineering BEPS-MLT-3.5BBL Istruzioni per l'installazione

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

For replacement parts, visit: blichmannengineering.com/genuine-replacement-parts 1

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse

Assembly, Operation, & Maintenance

Congratulations on your purchase, and thank you for selecting the 3.5 BBL Hybrid

Brewhouse from Blichmann Engineering™. We are condent that it will provide you

years of service and many gallons of outstanding beer. This manual will familiarize

you with the use, assembly, and the sanitation procedures for the product.

Sections labeled “Warning” can lead to serious injury or death if not followed. Please thoroughly read these sections

and understand them completely before use. If you do not understand them or have any questions, contact your

retailer or Blichmann Engineering (www.BlichmannEngineering.com) before use.

Sections labeled “Caution” can lead to equipment damage or unsatisfactory performance of the equipment. Please

read these sections thoroughly. If you have any questions, contact your retailer or Blichmann Engineering

(www.BlichmannEngineering.com) before use.

Sections labeled “Important” should specically be followed to ensure satisfactory results with the product.

WARNING:

CAUTION:

IMPORTANT:

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

PLEASE READ AND THOROUGHLY UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL PRIOR TO USE

FOR IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION!

What’s In the Box?

Item Number Description Quantity

BEPS-MLT-3.5BBL 3.5 BBL Mash Tun 1

BEPS-BK-HLT-3.5BBL 3.5 BBL Boil Kettle / Hot Liquor Tank 2

BEPS-LIFTSTAND-3.5BBL Kettle Stand 3

Control Panel - Single Phase 1

Sanitary Heater Set of 3 - Single Phase 2

BEPS-PUMP-15HP 1/5hp Brewery Pump 2

BEPS-CHILLER-2.0SQM Chiller 3.5 BBL 1

BEPS-HoseKit-3.5 3.5 Hose Assembly Kit 1

BE-000957-00 CIP Spear 1.5” Tri Clamp 1

BE-000859-00 Cap 2.5” Sanitary 2

Item Number Description Quantity

BE-000868-00 Clamp Gasket 1.5” 17

BE-000633-00 1.5” Tri Clamp 17

BE-000863-00 Tri Clamp Elbow 1.5” 4

BE-001356-00 1.5” Multi Position Valve Tri Clamp 3

BE-001084-00 CIP Spray Ball 1

BE-001186-00 1.5” Sanitary Pipe 6” 1

BE-000630-00 Cap 1.5” Sanitary 1

BE-001132-01 3.5 BBL Stand Pipe 1

BE-000866-00 Clamp Gasket 2.5” 9

BE-000861-00 2.5” Tri Clamp 9

Single Phase

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

For replacement parts, visit: blichmannengineering.com/genuine-replacement-parts 2

Assembly

Assemble the kettle stands as shown in the images below.

Place stands in the desired location Use a level to ensure that the stand arms are level. Adjust the leveling feet as needed. It is recom-

mended that you allow enough clearance between kettles and also on the sides and rear to allow personnel access for cleaning and

service of the ancillary equipment. Although in practical use, the kettles can easily be slid out for any service needs.

Install valves and ttings as shown in the images below. Note that a 6” spool is added to the mash tun drain to allow the valve to swing

under the stand so that a spent grain tote can be placed under the manway. It is not necessary to add the spool to the BK/HLT.

SPOOL FOR MASH TUN ONLY

Note: that you can easily couple hoses together with a clamp and gas-

ket to make long runs to fermentors etc.

Additional hoses can be purchased.

Attach the lifting arm to the holes in the mash kettle strand. Use the

included allen wrench to tighten in place.

Hoses

Length (1 inch ID) Quantity

5 Feet 3

10 Feet 1

Construction:

Tube: FDA white EPDM (non oily transfer applications)

Reinforcement: Multiple plies of polyester tire cord with wire helix

Cover: Grey EPDM

Temperature Range: -40°F to +225°F

Not for continuous steam service

Stainless Steel 1.5 Inch Tri-Clamp ends

Kettle stand walls

Kettle Placement & Fittings Installation

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

For replacement parts, visit: blichmannengineering.com/genuine-replacement-parts 3

Place heating elements (3) into the boil kettle and hot liquor tank. Ensure the nuts on the

element junction boxes are tight to prevent water entry into the heater as shown. Water

entry into the element will cause failure.

Install the false bottom through the manway in the mash tun (MT)

one segment at a time starting with the center section. Install the

U-shaped securing clips between the sections to secure them as

shown.

For the Boil Kettle only install the stand pipe in the drain tting inside

the kettle as shown. To install and remove the standpipe, simply use

a racking cane to lower it into the drain hole and reverse for removal.

This will keep the bulk of the settled hops and break material in the

bottom of kettle and out of the chiller. Use of the stand pipe, while

recommended, is optional. If you plan to treat your brewing water

by boiling, the use of the stand pipe works well in your HLT to leave

settled water salts behind. An extra stand pipe can be purchased on

our parts site or at time of order.

Ventilation needs for an electric brewhouse are fairly minimal as only the boil kettle needs to be ventilated. We recommend a traditional

commercial kitchen vent hood be installed approximately 6.5 ft from the nished oor. General rules of thumb are in the table below.

It is recommended that you consult your local codes and consult with a professional prior to purchasing or installing your ventilation

equipment.

Total power for the Boil Kettle is 18 KW.

Rules of Thumb Summary

Heat Load Factor 1 CFM per 100 BTU/hr (gas) or 34 CFM per KW (electric)

Hood Velocity Factor 50 CFM per ft2 of hood

Room Air Exchange Factor CFM = Room Volume (ft3) / 6 (you can generally disregard)

Hood Size Overhang 6” minimum front and sides

Hood Height 32” above kettles – approx. 6.5 ft from oor

Brewery Ventilation

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

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Control Panel Installation

Warning: Always follow ALL local codes and regulations for installation of this panel. We highly recommend hiring a certied electrician for this work!

This panel is designed for 240 VAC single phase power only. Contact us for 3 phase system options.

The back of the panel has 4 holes for afxing the panel to the wall of the brewhouse or onto a suitable stand. Mounting hardware or stand is not

included. The image below indicates the locations of the main components.

Kettle Temperature

Controllers (PID’s)

Heater Control

Selector Switches

Heater Power

Selector Switches

Timer Selector Switch

Heaters ON

Indicator Lamps

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

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DC Control Power Supply

Main GFI Breaker

Heating Element Breakers

Heating Element Contactors

System Ground

Main Power GFI Breaker – this industrial grade GFI (ground fault interrupting) breaker is the connection point for main power cables connected to the

panel. Consult your local codes to determine if you can utilize this breaker as a main disconnect as well. In any case, we highly recommend a suitable

disconnect switch be installed prior to the panel for safe servicing of the panel. Your contractor will need to punch a hole in your panel for the main

power cable conduit in your desired location. Power demand for the brewhouse is 150A at 240V (single phase). Select a main breaker setting for 20%

above the appropriate amperage to avoid nuisance tripping or as directed by your local codes.

RTD’s – the brewhouse is equipped with two durable high precision 100 ohm platinum RTD’s (resistance temperature detectors). Wire the sensors to

the control panel terminal block shown in the image. The wiring diagram in the RTD junction box is also shown. Important: use shielded 3 conductor

cable designed specically for wiring RTD’s for most accurate readings. Automation Direct part number RTDW-50-02 (50 ft) or RTDW-100-02 (100 ft)

are recommended and reasonably priced.

Heating Element

Ground

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

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Referencing the image below, place a jumper wire between terminal 1 and 2 on the inside of the RTD junction box

(both red wires).

Connect the white wires both labeled (+) to the terminals in the control panel listed below. Note that the white wires

are not polarity specic. Connect the red wire labeled terminal 1 to the control panel terminal listed below.

RTD Wiring Inside Control Panel

Boil Kettle

Red to BKTS-1

White to BKTS-2

White to BKTS-3

Mash Tun

Red to MTS-1

White to MTS-2

White to MTS-3

HLT

Red to HLTTS-1

White to HLTTS-2

White to HLTTS-3

Terminal 1

(Red wire to panel)

Terminal 2

Install Jumper

White wires to

panel

Heating Elements: The brewhouse is supplied with six 6,000 W ultra-low watt density heating elements. Each heating element will draw 25A at 240V. Each

element is pre-wired for 240V operation and has a pigtail with an L6-30P twist lock connector for easy removal for cleaning. We recommend SJOOW type cable

10 ga minimum. Again, your local codes will dictate the cable type and gauge.

IMPORTANT: Always consult your local codes to determine what type of cable is acceptable, what gauge is required, and maximum lengths of exible cable

allowed.

RTD Terminals

Low Level Float

Switch

Fig. 10

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

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IMPORTANT: The heating elements are pre-wired at the factory for 240V operation.

CAUTION – ensure the heater junction box is tight to keep any water out of the box. NEVER immerse the junction box or cord in liquids!

Float Switches – oat switches are provided to help prevent

unintended energizing of the heating elements. It is vital that the

heating elements be immersed in liquid prior to energizing them.

Failure to immerse the heating elements will cause them to fail and

potentially cause a re! Wire from the oat switch to the terminal

block shown in the panel (Fig. 10). Wire to terminal 1 and 2 on

the oat switch. Polarity is not important. Use suitable 2 wire cable

(18 ga recommended) for connection. If jumper wires are installed

in the panel remove them when you install the switch wires.

When wiring the oat switches to the control panel use a continuity

tester on the leads to ensure that the switch is open when in the

down (empty) position, and is closed (has continuity) in the up (full)

position. Low level oat switch terminals BKFS-1 and BKFS-2 are

for the Boil Kettle, HLTFS-1 and HLTFS-2 are for the HLT. (Fig. 10)

CAUTION: The low water level switches are a backup to an unintended energizing of the heaters. They are NOT

intended to be normal shutoff switches and solely relied upon to keep the heaters from unintentionally energizing!

Dry-red heating elements are not covered under warranty!

WARNING - DO NOT twist the oat

switch apart. This is NOT covered

under warranty.

The indent should be pointed up for proper

oat switch operation.

Remove the rubber band on the low level oat switch.

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

For replacement parts, visit: blichmannengineering.com/genuine-replacement-parts 8

Control Panel Operation

Reference the gures on pages 3 and 4 for locations of components.

PID’s – The PID controllers are pre-set for optimum heating rates and minimum overshoot. The corresponding large green lamp below

the PID will indicate when the control is powering the heating elements. As the temperature approaches the set point the controller

will automatically begin to cycle the heating elements on and off for a short period approximately every 30 seconds to maintain the set

temperature. Typical stability is about +/- 1F. Note that the MASH PID is displaying temperature only and does not energize heating

elements.

To change the set point press the UP/DOWN arrows until you reach your desired setting.

Heater Control Selector Switch – there are three positions for the power selector switch.

Energizes the corresponding heating elements at all times and is used as manual override. It

bypasses the PID and the low water level oat switch. It is used as an emergency override should

a component fail during a brew day.

De-energizes the heating elements in all cases and prevents heater from energizing. Select this

position as you begin to frain a tank or wish to prevent unitended powering of the heaters.

Allows the PID to automatically turn on the heaters to maintain the desired set temperature and

allows the low level switches protect the heating elements from ring while dry.

ON -

OFF -

AUTO -

Heater Power Selector Switches – the heater selector switches are used to select the total power input to your kettle. Each switch

controls 3 heating elements. You may select, for example, element 1 only (1/3 power), element 1-2 (2/3 power), or 1-2-3 (full power).

This is particularly helpful during the boil to control the boil intensity.

Timer – a start delay timer is provided to allow you to start heating brewing liquor in advance of your brew day so that you have hot

liquor available at the exact desired temperature upon arrival for brewing. The factory setting is 0-999 minutes of delay. To select a

delay push the ‘SET’ button on the timer to turn the timer on. Use the up and down arrows to set the minutes of delay. Press ‘SET’ again

to lock in the selected time. To turn the timer off press the set button until the timer displays off.

Note: Boil Kettle and/or Hot Liquor Tank must be turned to the ‘Auto’ position to turn on at the end of the timer delay.

WARNING: Always ensure your tanks are full of water prior to turning the timer function ON and also ensure your PID selector switch

in in the AUTO mode! Energizing the heaters dry will cause the heaters to fail and potentially cause a re. Boiling water unattended (if

heaters left in the ON position) will cause a similar failure if the water boils off.

WARNING: Consult your local codes and regulations for unattended operation of your system.

Emergency Stop – this switch disables all heater contactors in the panel and also can be used for ensuring your heaters do not inad-

vertently power on. For safety, install a padlock through the hole in the switch to prevent unauthorized operation of the panel.

WARNING: pressing the emergency stop button does NOT cut power from the inside of the panel! All internal components will be live!

To service the panel, disconnect main power to the panel before opening the panel.

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

For replacement parts, visit: blichmannengineering.com/genuine-replacement-parts 9

Brewhouse Operation

The hybrid design combines the conveniences of a traditional brewhouse with the simplicity, familiarity, and lower start-up cost of a

homebrew system. This allows a fast and easy transition into commercial brewing with very few sacrices! As such, startup and the

learning curve is quite simple. This system is a y-sparge design and includes a boil kettle, a hot liquor tank, and a mash/lauter tun.

Note that the boil kettle and HLT are identical kettles for convenience. Both contain a whirlpool port. For the HLT, simply cap the

whirlpool port with the included ttings.

IMPORTANT: This manual is not intended as a brewing guide. If you are not intimately familiar with all grain brewing techniques we

highly recommend the following texts from the Brewers Association:

How to Brew (Palmer)

Water (Palmer & Kaminski)

Yeast (Zainasheff and White)

Malt (John Mallet)

For the Love of Hops (Stan Hieronymus)

Brewing Classic Beer Styles (Zainasheff & Palmer)

Heating Hot Liquor

For a typical brew day you will ll your HLT with enough water for your full brew length. Always better to have too much hot liquor than

too little! For higher gravity beers it may be necessary to add more liquor to your HLT after dough-in. Or simply heat your strike water

in your boil kettle, and separately heat your sparge water in your HLT. It is really a matter of preference.

TIP: For recipe calculation and strike water temps we have loaded the 3.5 BBL Hybrid kettles into BeerSmith. We highly recommend

this software for all of your brews. It will take a few brews to dial in all of your parameters to achieve consistent results.

CAUTION: prior to powering up your panel, or pulling the emergency stop switch to the ON position, turn all heater control selector

switches to OFF! This will prevent unintended energizing of the heating elements. ALWAYS be in the habit of turning the heater power

selector switches to OFF prior to draining any kettle! Fill your HLT and (and/or boil kettle) with the desired amount of water ensuring that

there is enough water to actuate the oat switches. If the switches are not oating they will not allow the heaters to energize!

Set your strike water to the desired temperature. Remember to press the enter key to accept the new value. If the screen is ashing

the new setting has NOT been accepted.

Mashing

When the temperature has been reached and you are ready to pump liquor to the MT turn the PID selector switch to OFF. Underlet

water into the MT by pumping water from the HLT into the BOTTOM of the MT. When you have 3-4” of water above the false bottom

begin adding and stirring the malt as you continue to pump.

TIP: we recommend underletting so that the malt and water combine and reach close to your desired rest temperature at

all times. It takes 15-20 min to stir in all the malt and conversion does begin quickly. If you were to ll the MT with all the

hot liquor and then add the malt you would over-shoot your infusion temperature for the rst 15-20 minutes until you had all

the malt in the MT. Therefore underletting is highly advised. Having one person stir while another adds malt is very helpful.

3.5 BBL Hybrid Brewhouse Single Phase V1.1 © Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2018

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After your scarication rest period, vorlauf (recirculate) your wort for about 10 minutes to clarify the wort and set the grain bed in prepa-

ration for runoff to the BK. Now is a good time to check that you have your stand pipe installed in your boil kettle as detailed previously.

Lautering (sparging) and vorlauf are both performed using the CIP ball included with the system to gently distribute liquor or wort over

the top of the grain bed. See the image below. Take care to avoid too fast of a runoff which may stick the mash. Note that the level

gauge also acts as a manometer that measures the suction pressure on the grain bed. If the level in the gauge is more than 1/3 lower

than the level in the tank you are drawing too quickly and will soon stick your mash. In general, you want to lauter your mash for 45 -60

min for optimum efciency. Stop runoff when your runnings are below 1.010 SG (2.5 deg Plato) or when your runnings reach 6 pH.

IMPORTANT: Do NOT sparge or vorlauf at full pump ow or you are very likely to stick your mash, and your efciency will suffer se-

verely!

TIP: Your pumps are equipped with sanitary diaphragm valves that make easy work of balancing your ow rates. After a few brews you

will determine the number of turns on the valve to achieve your desired ow. Simply make the same number of turns on each pump

and your ows will be very close to balanced.

TIP: Raking (stirring) the top 1/3 of the mash every 15 minutes during lautering helps to remove any preferential ow paths and pro-

vides a more efcient uniform lauter.

Boiling: Once the level of the wort in your BK / HLT has reached your oat switch, turn the corresponding heater control selector switch

to AUTO and adjust the set point on the PID to 220F to achieve a boil. That will re the elements continuously.

CAUTION: if you turn your heater control selector switch to ON when boiling, your oat switches are bypassed and will NOT protect

your heating elements should you inadvertently drain the BK with the elements energized! Dry red heating elements that fail are not

covered under warranty!

TIP: If the boil is too aggressive use the heater selector switch to de-energize one of the heating elements. Note that a proper boil is

between a simmer and a surging boil. Shoot for a 3-5% boil off rate per hour.

IMPORTANT: To drive off DMS ALWAYS boil with the lid open!

Your mash tun, even though uninsulated, will lose less than 1 F/hr. Rarely do commercial

breweries perform step mashing. Modern malts are highly modied and very little is to be

gained by step mashing. Homebrew kettles, on the other hand, are so small that they lose

heat quickly so temperature maintenance is common (RIMS/HERMS).

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