Jacuzzi Z Builder Series Istruzioni operative

The Mechanics and Repair of

Jacuzzi



Whirlpool Bath

Hot Tub Spas

For the Following ELECTRONIC Spas Made 1995-2001

Dealer Premium Model Line

(sold through dealers):



Z Builder Series Line

(sold through big box stores):



(does not include Z101)

Published by Clear Creek Spas

Disclaimer

Every effort has been made to make this manual understandable and applicable.

If you have doubts or little experience with electrical appliances, it’s best to leave

electrical work to licensed electricians. Care and proper electrical procedures

must be adhered to whenever working with electricity and especially is true with

spas since you are dealing with electrical current that can harm or kill your or

those near or in the spa.

As a Rule of Thumb: ALWAYS TURN THE SPA’S MAIN POWER OFF

UNLESS REQUIRED TO PERFORM A TEST. WHEN YOU DO HAVE POWER

ON BE CAREFUL AND USE PROPER ELECTRICAL PROTECTION AND

PROCEDURES.

Although this booklet should be able to guide you through most repairs and even

diagnosing the problem, www.clearcreekspas.com offers an “Ask the Expert” free

of charge and you can write me and be more specific for your spa and your

particular problem.

Every effort has been made to be accurate and complete but note we cannot

guarantee specific accuracy.

Throughout this manual reference to part numbers are Jacuzzi Premium Spa

numbers. If the part number prefix is “CC” the part is our own number and

available on our website.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Overview

Section One: Equipment and Parts

Chapter One: Pumps and Motors

Chapter Two: Heaters

Chapter Three: Control System

Chapter Four: Air Blowers

Chapter Five: Pressure Switch: Flow Switch

Chapter Six: Sensors

Chapter Seven: Topside Control

Chapter Eight: Ozonators

Chapter Nine: Mood Lights

Chapter Ten: Plumbing

Chapter Eleven: Spa Jets

Chapter Twelve: Stereo

Section Two: Troubleshooting

I. Trips GFCI

II. Doesn’t Heat

III. Motor Hums

IV. Pump Leaks

V. Diagnose Your Problem by CLICKS

VI. Error Codes

Section Three: Review of Specific Models

Introduction

I started servicing Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath spas in 1995. I first started by working

for a friend who was an Authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath.

Shortly after that I purchased the spa repair business from him and became the

owner.

From that date to 2001 we were the authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi

Whirlpool Products in the Denver and Eastern Colorado area. During that time we

were rated in the top 10 service companies in the United States for customer

service. We were the only Service Company to receive that award every time it

was offered during those years. When Jacuzzi, Inc reorganized their company in

2001, they moved their spa production to their Sundance plant. We continue to

and are still servicing Jacuzzi Hot Tubs as a service center.

It just happened that when I started working and servicing spas for Jacuzzi

Whirlpool Bath was also the time the industry was switching to electronic

controlled spas. Therefore I experienced the changes that have occurred during

this time and continue to work in the field, I have experienced a wide spectrum of

problems and their solution. I would like to say I have seen it all but that always

proves untrue.

I have tried to make this manual simple but comprehensive; quite a challenge. To

do so I try first to explain what and how the part works. Then how to replace or

repair the part. I have also come up with the CLICK method of identifying

problems.

In the Troubleshooting Section I have found 99% of the problems with a spa are

routine if you follow a systemic approach. Sometimes I make this approach too

obvious but for the sake of the weekend warrior, I made it so.

If you have questions not specifically addressed in this manual, I have an email

address specifically created for you. It’s the first email I check, usually every

business day. Just email me at: manualhelp@clearcreekspas.com. I will be

willing to help all I can.

Overview

GENERAL

Basically, spa operation is simple. The pump draws the water from the spa,

through the pump and pushes it through the heater and back into the spa. Now

add more jets, more pumps, an air blower, and maybe a stereo. That’s today’s

popular spa.

America’s lust for more jets has driven the need for more pumps to drive the jets.

To help keep the spa clean with less chemicals, manufacturer’s have added a 24

hour circulation pump and Ozonator. For some older premium models, you also

have added an air bubbling up from the bottom of the spa.

Many end users have opted for the simpler “Z” or builder series of spas Jacuzzi

Whirlpool produced for about six years. These spas were produced with volume

sales through big box stores in mind. Doing so made spas available to many who

could not afford to buy the dealer line of spas.

This manual focuses on both the Dealer line of Jacuzzi Whirlpool spas and the

“Z” series.

SPA SHELL

Jacuzzi’s spa finish skin is acrylic. A sheet of acrylic is heated and dropped into a

mold and vacuumed to form the shell. Then it’s flipped over and sprayed with a

fiberglass solution that gives it strength. Holes are drilled into the spa and jets

installed. Then the plumbing is finished and insulation is now sprayed. Finally the

equipment is installed. The construction of the spa is mostly performed with the

spa upside down. Finally the spa is flipped upright and final tests including water

testing is done.

The spa frame is made a wide variety of ways over the years but basically on

either a wood bracing, solid plywood base, or fiberglass base. Often the spa shell

has part of the frame molded into the actual spa shell or glued to it to create

strength.

Paneling

The paneling of spas has changed over the years. Initially redwood or cedar was

the common siding. Jacuzzi built spas with slats glued to a plastic sheet and

screwed to the spa frame. An attempt to economize cost panels were built of

various woods and stained but this has been discontinued. Most common now

are synthetic plastic panels or slats. These are becoming popular even though

they can be as costly as redwood or cedar. But they are able to withstand the

elements with little care.

Chapter ONE Pump & Motors

Overview:

There can be confusion; What’s a pump? What’s a motor? Are they the same?

The “pump” is considered by many to be the complete pump/motor and by others

only the end where the water passes through. The “wetend” is the more common

word for the end that moves the water.

Jacuzzi’s pump or wetend is patented by Jacuzzi and only sold by them. The

motor is made by others.

Jacuzzi Whirlpool first used their WHITE pump in common production. It’s a one

piece pump that bolts to the motor body by 4 bolts on the pumps gray mounting

plate. If the pump fails, you must replace the complete white pump. They are

NOT interchangeable with the next generation pump.

The “J” PUMP is BLACK and made of the main body or bracket that mounts on

the motor by the 4 bolts that hold the motor together.

Then the impellor which attaches to the motor shaft. When the impellor rotates its

what moves the water. Between the impellor and the bracket is the seal. The seal

is a two part component with ½ in the bracket and ½ on the impellor shaft. When

these two mate they compress and seal the pump from leaking. Then an

“eyeseal” is on the front of the impellor. A large oring seals the front of the pump

(volute) when the bolts tighten them together.

Simply explained, when the impellor turns it compresses the water and the

compressed water escapes out of the top of the pump.

Commonly, the “motor” is ONLY the motor, Jacuzzi used either AO Smith or

Emerson motors although earlier they used other brands. Most motors are either

110vac or 220vac although some can be either. If either, you can “field wire” the

motor to match the application you are installing. But typically, it’s a set voltage.

The key for motors is matching the horsepower (hp) of the motor to the pump.

You can have a motor oversized for a pump hp and be OK. It’s like having an

oversized motor for your car. But you can not have a pump too large for the

motor. If you do, the motor will have a early failure. It’s like driving a large car with

an undersized motor. Best bet is to match.

Jacuzzi used 3 motors on their 1995-2001 spa production. For 110vac spas, 2

speed single motor. On their 2 pump systems they commonly used two 220v

single speed pumps. In 1999 they introduced the Pinnacle Model which has a

small circulation pump and two non-Jacuzzi pumps. They did this configuration

on other models in 2000/1.

In the early 90’s Jacuzzi designed their own proprietary pump. They called it the

“J-pump” (explained previously) and soon followed with the “K-Pump”. The “J-

Pump” has a low snout for the incoming suction fitting and a top center discharge.

It’s used in the low and 2 speed pumps. The “K-Pump” is a mid-center suction

connection with a top center discharge. It’s only used in the 3hp pump.

The “J” and “K” pump are a volume pump at low pressure. What this means is

that they are designed to move a large volume of water but not at high pressure.

It’s easy to compare the Jacuzzi pump as a wide flowing river verses a narrow

fast moving river. By design you can sit again a number of jets for a length of time

and not feel irritation. On pumps built by others the pressure out of the jets are

often strong enough to become uncomfortable. In later products Jacuzzi

Whirlpool added high pressured pumps.

Just a note about ratings: It seems Jacuzzi engineers have a hard time rating

their pumps, especially the low and 2 speed. It’s easy to understand because

they initially rated the low speed pump as a ¾ hp pump and the 2 speed 1 ½ hp.

But it must have become apparent that they underated the pumps because they

upgraded the rating to 1hp and 2hp. Since then, the rating has change to just the

low pump and their 2 speed pump. The 3hp pump has remained at their rating.

Lastly, in the industry the motor is motor only, pump is the wetend, and when they

are together, they are called pump complete.

PUMP/MOTOR

The motor takes electrical current and turns the shaft clockwise. Although

individual parts may be available, usually bad motors are replaced not repair.

REPLACING Pump/Motor:

SINGLE PUMP SPAS:

110vac, 2 Speed Pump;(part #2500-255 standard duty pump/motor complete;

#CC-F570HD heavy duty pump/motor complete; Pump Only: #CC-2jp)

If your spa has only one pump, You have a 110v, 2 speed pump that serves as

both low and high speeds.

Removal:

Turn main power off. Drain the spa. Most Jacuzzi models do not have

valves to close to avoid draining the spa. Once the spa is drained, disconnect the

2 couplings attached to the pump (wet end). Normally you can hand loosen but

occasionally you will need to use a large wrench to loosen. You can also use a oil

filter wrench to loosen. (see Chapter XX for specific spa suggestions)

Next: The motor itself is attached by four nuts at the feet. There is likely

a copper bonding wire attached to the motor. Remove. Unplug the pump cord

from the control box.

Remove pump/motor assembly.

Disassemble Pump (wetend).

A. Remove 4 bolts holding the front face of the pump (volute) to the pump

housing.

B. You will see the eye-seal on the nose of the impellor and the impellor.

You will want to disconnect the impellor from the motor shaft. The motor shaft

screws into the impellor. The intended method to separate is this: on the opposite

end of the pump/motor assembly, in the middle, is the motor shaft end. It has a

slot. Take a large slotted screwdriver and while holding the impellor stationary

with one hand, turn the motor shaft with the other. If this doesn’t work, reverse

focus and turn the impellor with your hand while holding the motor shaft

stationary. In worst case situations, you can grab the motor shaft between the

pump and motor with a pair of vice grips and hand turn the impellor loose. If that

doesn’t work, you will have to use a wrench on the impellor to separate. This will

likely damage the impellor and will need to be replaced.

C. Once the impellor is separated you need to disconnect the pump

bracket or body from the motor. It is held by 4 long bolts that run through the

motor and bolt to the pump. Disconnect each bolt but DO NOT pull the bolts out.

They also hold the motor together and removal will likely cause the motor to

disassemble.

D. If you are replacing the pump (wetend), reverse. If the motor shaft is

corroded, you need to remove the rust. The least abrasive method is best. Start

with steel wool, then try a wire brush or even sandpaper. You need to have a

clean motor shaft so the impellor can tighten cleanly against the seal and make

the seal work. If the motor shaft is highly corroded, the new impellor will not

tighten against the seal and the pump will leak.

E. If you are replacing the motor, you have to move the motor cord from

the old to new. The motor is only a 110-130vac motor so you don’t have any

internal wiring to change for the new motor. The sequence of wiring is the same

for either an Emerson or an AOSmith/Magnatek motor. The top wire connection

is the white (neutral) wire; the middle is the red (high) wire. The bottom is the

black (low) wire.

Extra Help:

If you strip the bolts that hold the pump face (volute) to the J-light pump housing

(bracket), you can easily buy a long bolt and nut locally and insert that through the

hole and tighten. You must tighten all four bolts to snug. If not, the pump will

eventually leak.

On a few models, access to the pump/motor is difficult. Because the pump/motor

is behind the piping and control box, I have found often it’s best to remove the

piping and in a few cases, the control box itself to get to the pump.

“Z” Models made from late 1996- early 1998 often have only a limited access

panel of about 3 feet. The rest of the spa panel is one piece on each side.

Because each side’s panel is built as one piece and screwed into various points

for strength, the only way to remove is to lift the spa up to get to screws that were

placed in upward angles. It’s quite a project. You should consider building a new

side panel and cutting a hole through the existing panel. The amount of effort to

remove the side is more than the time and effort paid to build a new side panel.

This is only applicable to those few production models that only have a small

access panel in front of the equipment.

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