ControlOMatic ChlorMaker Manuale utente
ChlorMaker
OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
ControlOMatic, Inc. 12659 Arbor Lane Grass Valley, CA 95949
www.controlomatic.com [email protected]
530-205-4520
Manual Version: 07/09/18
Made in the USA - Please like us at www.facebook.com/controlomatic
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
READ & FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS
When installing and using this electrical equipment, basic safety precautions should
always be followed, including the following:
WARNING: Cutting the cord from the power supply to the ChlorMaker cell voids the warranty.
Damage will occur if the connection is reversed.
WARNING: To reduce the risk of injury, do not permit children to use this product unless they
are closely supervised at all times.
WARNING: Use ChlorMaker only according to these instructions. Any modification or misuse of
this product will void the warranty.
WARNING: Install ChlorMaker in accordance with all national and local electrical, plumbing,
safety, and other applicable codes.
WARNING: Connect ChlorMaker to a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) or GFI (ground fault
interrupt) protected VAC power source only.
WARNING: Protect the power supply and outlet from exposure to the elements including direct
sun, rain, snow, condensation, etc.
WARNING: DO NOT use with extension cord. Injury may result.
WARNING: DO NOT operate ChlorMaker if damaged in any way.
WARNING: DO NOT pull on the cord to disconnect the Power Supply from power source. Do
not allow the cord be walked on, or to rest on sharp edges or corners. Do not drop, throw, or
otherwise rough handle ChlorMaker.
WARNING: DO NOT operate or leave the power supply in temperatures below 32ºF or 0ºC. The
power supply may not survive in extremely cold temperatures.
WARNING: Disconnect, remove and store ChlorMaker indoors when spa has been winterized
or drained.
CAUTION: Leave spa cover open at least 1 minute to allow trapped gases to escape prior to
use.
CAUTION: Measure water quality parameters and adjust if necessary prior to each spa use.
CAUTION: ChlorMaker doesn’t measure the chlorine level and must be adjusted properly in
order to not over-chlorinate your spa. Over-chlorination can lead to spa damage and un-healthy
water conditions.
WARNING: Remove the ChorMaker cell from the SPA when using the SPA.
WARNING: DO NOT handle the ChlorMaker cell during chlorine production (visible bubbling).
Slight discomfort may be felt in cuts, sores, or sensitive skin areas due to chlorine concentration
and the electrolysis process.
WARNING: DO NOT insert objects into, or tamper with the ChlorMaker cell in any way.
Inserting metal objects into the cell may cause damage and void the warranty.
WARNING: DO NOT plug ChlorMaker control box directly into the VAC supply, this will damage
the ChlorMaker. Always use the low voltage power supply.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
WATER PREPARATION & MAINTENANCE
To ensure proper operation, the spa must be drained, rinsed, refilled with fresh water, and balanced to the
recommended levels indicated in this section before installing the product. Use the included test strips to
measure water chemistry and verify the water is properly balanced. Replacing the filter is recommended, but
not required unless, the spa was previously sanitized with a hydrogen peroxide system. The combination of
hydrogen peroxide and chlorine may cause gum-like build up, water discoloration, and skin irritation.
It is important to properly maintain your spa for the health and safety of all users. Spas are unique in both size
and usage patterns. ChlorMaker will significantly reduce the amount of spa maintenance required, but regular
chemical checkups, including chlorine levels and pH, are recommended. Proper water maintenance will
prolong the life of ChlorMaker and the spa. The following table describes generally accepted optimum water
chemistry for portable spas.
Parameter Recommended Level
Free Chlorine 2.0 to 3.0
pH 7.2 to 7.6
Total Alkalinity 80 to 120 PPM
Calcium Hardness 200 to 400 PPM
It is recommended that chlorine and PH levels are
checked before each use, or at least once per week
when not in use. Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and
Salt Concentration should be checked at least once
per month. It is recommended that the spa is
manually shocked after high usage (example: after a
party with multiple users), or biweekly if used
frequently. Always remember to leave the spa
circulating for several hours before retesting.
Phosphates in the spa water will increase the demand for chlorine and will reduce the life expectancy of the
generator. Remove Phosphates upon start up and each month thereafter. Phosphate Remover can be
purchased at any local Pool & Spa supply store.
WARNING: Consistent chlorine levels above 5.0 PPM (parts per million) or consistent salt
concentration levels above 5,000 PPM may lead to corrosion of metal components in the spa.
WARNING: Consistently low Calcium Hardness levels below 150 PPM may lead to spa equipment
damage and failure. Make sure Calcium Hardness levels are within the recommended range above.
INTRODUCTION
ChlorMaker is a semi-automated, salt water chlorine generation system specifically designed for portable spas
up to 1000 Gallons. ChlorMaker generates chlorine from a small amount of ordinary salt (Sodium Chloride,
NaCl) dissolved in the spa water. The amount of salt added is very small in relation to the volume of the water
in the spa. The concentration required for the ChlorMaker is only about 5% of the salt level of ocean water and
below the typical taste level of most humans.
The small addition of salt also benefits spa users by providing a softening effect on the water, leaving hair and
skin feeling smoother and healthier than with traditional sanitizing products. Only 2.5 cups of salt per 100
gallons (379 liters) of water is all it takes for ChlorMaker to produce fresh, pure chlorine leaving your
water clean and clear day after day.
ChlorMaker produces chlorine in its pure form using electrolysis in order to sanitize the spa water. The
ChlorMaker operates on a 3 hour cycle. The chlorine in a spa will dissipate quickly due to the warmer
temperatures of the water, so the ChlorMaker operates with a short 3 hour cycle time to ensure sanitizer levels
are maintained. After the salt is converted to chlorine, the chlorine will later be converted back to salt, keeping
the salt level steady. When you use the spa your body attracts some salt and when you get out the salt level
will drop slightly.
SALT REQUIREMENT
ChlorMaker will generate either Chlorine or Bromine depending on the type of salt used. Sodium Chloride Salt
provides Chlorine Generation and Sodium Bromide Salt provides Bromine. Please Note: Each salt requires a
different level of salinity for the ChlorMaker to operate effectively. WARNING: SALT ONLY NEEDS TO BE
ADDED ONCE AND BROUGHT TO THE APPROPRIATE SALT LEVEL (BLUE LIGHTS) PER SPA WATER
CHANGE. DO NOT KEEP ADDING SALT.
CHLORINE SALT - SODIUM CHLORIDE (NaCl): Raise Salt Level to 1,500 to 2,000 PPM (Parts Per Million).
Approved salts include “pool salt” made for salt water chlorine generating systems, canning and pickling salt
from your local market, and some water softener salts that are 99% pure sodium chloride or better. Some high-
end, mineral enriched salts can be used but require higher quantities to achieve 2,000 PPM sodium chloride salt
level. These approved salts are generally available at pool & spa supply stores, home improvement centers
and On-Line stores in a variety of sizes. NOTE: Never use rock salt or salts that have more than 1% “anti-caking
agents”, “yellow prussiate of soda”, or “sodium ferrocyanide”. These compounds may cause surface staining.
BROMINE SALT - SODIUM BROMIDE (NaBr): Raise Salt Level to 3,000 PPM (Parts Per Million). There are
several manufacturers of Sodium Bromide Salt to choose from. Please make sure the Sodium Bromide you
purchase is 99% pure or better. Ask your local pool and spa dealer for assistance.
Chart is Based on 100 Gallons or 379 Liters of Spa Water
Salt Type
Pounds
kg Cups Salt Level
99% Pure Sodium Chloride (NaCl) 1.5 0.681 2.5 1500-2000 PPM
99% Pure Sodium Bromide (NaBr) Fine Grain Salt 2.5 1.135 4 2500-3000 PPM
The amount of salt to add and dissolve is dependent upon the size of the spa. Determine the volume of water in
gallons or liters by checking the spa owner’s manual or use any Internet volume calculator.
Ÿ99% Pure Sodium Chloride (NaCl) Coarse Grain Example:
ŸFor a 350 Gallon Spa: Divide 350 Gal by 100 and multiply by 2.5 to get the amount to add in cups.
(350 / 100 * 2.5) = 3.5 x 2.5 = 8.75 Cups
ŸFor a 1250 liter Spa: Divide 1250 liters by 379 and multiply by 0.681 to get the amount to add in kg.
(1250 / 379 * 0.681) = 3.3 x 0.681 = 2.25 kg and for cups (1250 / 379 = 3.3 x 2.5 = 8.25 cups)
Simply pour the recommended amount of salt directly into the spa water to bring the concentration to the
recommended level. Turn the spa jets on. If the water is cold it may take several hours for the salt to fully
dissolve, warmer water will help dissolve the salt faster.
NOTE: It may take the ChlorMaker a few hours to register the salt level the first time. Wait a couple of hours for
the salt to dissolve, and then turn on the ChlorMaker.
NOTE: When putting salt in, do not add too much. The ChlorMaker will shut down and display RED/GREEN
lights at the same time. It is always better to put less in, and then add a little more later if needed. If you have a
water softener then your water source may already have some salt, in this case let the water get to temperature
and turn the ChlorMaker on before adding any salt to check the current level.
NOTE: If you are trying to decide which salt you want to use, ControlOMatic recommends pool salt (NaCl).
Sodium bromide (NABR) is around $13 per pound and pool salt (NaCl) is around $0.18 per pound. To use NaBr
on a 400 gallon spa would cost around $130 for the salt, and then you would have to buy it again when you
drain your spa. ControlOMatic has also received feedback that the smell from Bromine is noticeable.
NOTE: Many hardware stores and big box stores carry pool salt, so it is easy to find 40 pound bags at such
places.
ChlorMaker Installation
Prepare the SPA
Drain and clean the spa, refill and add salt. Allow
the water to get to over 95°F and balance the
water.
Installation Steps
1. Install a protected electrical outlet, if not
already available near, the spa for the Power
Supply
2. Mount the control Box
3. Drape the ChlorMaker cell over the side of the
spa, ensure it is hanging vertically
4. Turn the ChlorMaker on
5. Set the power level
Power Supply
The power supply supports 100 to 240 VAC with an output voltage of 5.5
VDC. The supply cord from the Power Supply to the ChlorMaker control
box is 15 feet. Installing any equipment inside the spa equipment
compartment may void the spa warranty or void the safety certification of
the spa and is not recommended.
110 VAC Electrical Outlet
Locate a GFCI protected outlet near the spa. WARNING: A 110 VAC
GFCI or GFI protected outlet is required. A weather protective cover is
required to house the power supply at the power source connection.
Weather protective covers are available at most local hardware stores. If
an outlet needs to be installed, have a licensed electrician add a 110 VAC
GFI protected outlet.
220 VAC Electrical Outlet
The power supply plug style is for 110 VAC. Have a licensed electrician
install a 220 VAC GFI protected connection near the spa that will accept
a 110 VAC style plug. The outlet may need to be a minimum distance
from the spa and the local electrical codes should be checked.
Power Supply Connector
Remove the tie straps from the ChlorMaker power supply cable and route the cable to the outlet, do not plug in
yet. The cable should already be attached to the power supply, the connector has 2 metal pins, one is round
and the other is rectangular and can only go in one way, reversing the connection will damage the ChlorMaker.
The ChlorMaker includes 2 cable clips, use one (3/16” with a #6 x 1/2” screw) to attach the cable to a solid
surface if necessary.
Cold Weather Operation
The power supply is not designed for temperatures below 32ºF or 0ºC. If this can’t be avoided store the power
supply in a warm location when the temperature is low or install the power supply in the spa equipment area
where there is some protection.
Mount the Control Box
Find a suitable location to mount the control box meeting
the following requirements:
1. Vertical installation with the two cables coming out the
bottom
2. Out of direct sunlight
3. A location that will minimize rain and moisture. Even
though the box is resistant, minimizing moisture
exposure will minimize the chance of moisture getting
inside the box
4. A flat location on the spa skirt that is close enough for
the power supply cable to reach the electrical outlet and
the cable can be protected or locate on a post or wall
near the spa, close enough to the spa for the 10 foot
cell cable to reach, with the cell hanging in the deepest
part of the spa
The ChlorMaker box mounting flange has two large holes
allowing for installing the screws first.
1. Install the two small screws 5 3/8” apart and 1 1/4” or
more below the edge of the shell part of the spa
2. Place the box onto the screws and slide the box down
3. Tighten the screws
ChlorMaker Cell
Lift the lid off the spa and drape the cell over the side into
the water. Use the following guidelines for the placement of
the cell:
1. For best results place the cell in the deepest location in
the spa. When generating chlorine the bubbles will
travel up and, if in the deepest location in the spa, will
be in contact with the spa water longer
2. The cell must be in a vertical orientation. If lying flat it
will generate less chlorine
3. The cell can be located in the filter area if it will fit - but
this is not recommended, as the bubbles will not be in
contact with the water as long as in a deeper location.
When the pump is off the filter door closes and the
chlorine level will be much higher in the filter area.
4. The ChlorMaker includes 2 cable clips. Use one of the
clips (1/4” clip and a #6 x 1/2” screw) to fasten the cable
to the side of the spa if necessary
OPERATION
The ChlorMaker has 3 buttons and 4 lights built into the overlay on the control box. With the buttons you can
check the power level, change the power level and put into boost mode. The lights indicate the salt level and
the current mode (making chlorine or standby).
Power Up
To turn on the ChlorMaker plug in the power supply (wall transformer). When the ChlorMaker turns on it will
flash the lights as follows:
1. WHITE - Blinks two times
2. RED, BLUE, GREEN - will flash in that order
3. WHITE - will then flash the power level, count the flashes (the number is the power level, 1 to 10)
4. Chlorine production will start after a few seconds
Making Chlorine (Salt Level Indication)
ChlorMaker will indicate if the salt level is low or normal. If it is low that is OK, you could add more salt if you
want, but not required. If the lights are on solid or blinking (at a one second rate) the ChlorMaker is producing
chlorine:
ŸSolid GREEN - Salt Level High
ŸSolid BLUE - Salt Level Normal
ŸSolid RED - Salt Level On The Low Side
ŸSolid RED / GREEN at the same time - Salt Level has exceeded the maximum and the ChlorMaker has
shut down to protect the power supply and the cell. Drain out some water and refill to dilute the salt level.
Cycle power or press the boost button to have it check again. Perform the tests in the troubleshooting
section.
ŸThe lights will blink the salt level when in boost mode
Not Making Chlorine (Standby Mode)
The ChlorMaker works on a 3 hour cycle. The first part of the 3 hours is chlorine production mode where there
will be visible bubbles coming out of the cell; the rest of the 3 hours is standby mode where the cell is not
making chlorine. The standby mode is indicated by the GREEN light flashing every 10 seconds. This shows
the ChlorMaker has power and is on, but waiting for the 3 hour period to end.
Power Levels
ChlorMaker includes 10 power level settings that are set based on water volume, usage and testing. The
ChlorMaker factory setting is 3 (on 15 minutes and standby is 2 hours and 45 minutes). The output power to
the cell is always the same. The power levels change the amount of time the cell is energized every three
hours. At the start of the three hour period the cell will be energized and then, after the time indicated by the
power level, the cell will go into standby mode and stop producing chlorine. At the start of the next 3 hour
period the cycle repeats. Follow the steps below to increase or decrease the power level.
VIEW THE CURRENT POWER LEVEL SETTING
Simply press the UP or DOWN arrow button once and count the WHITE flashes. Each flash represents a
power level. For example: 3 WHITE flashes = power level 3, 7 WHITE flashes = power level 7.
CHANGE POWER LEVELS
1. Press both the UP arrow and the DOWN arrow at the same time. The WHITE Light will turn on solid
indicating that it is in power change mode.
2. Press the UP arrow to increase power - the GREEN light will flash each time the UP arrow is pressed. If
set at the maximum power level of 10, the GREEN light will be on solid.
3. Press the DOWN arrow to decrease power - the RED light will flash each time the DOWN arrow is
pressed. If at the minimum power level of 1, the RED light will be on solid.
4. When finished do not press any buttons for 3 seconds. The WHITE light will flash (count the flashes)
confirming the new power level setting.
SELECTING THE RIGHT POWER LEVEL
Selecting the right power level requires some testing and adjustment. There are many factors that affect the
sanitizing needs of a spa such as: Frequency of spa use, number of people, if there is an Ozone Generator,
spa temperature, last drain and refill, phosphate level, etc. After the testing and adjustment period, ChlorMaker
will take care of your sanitation needs day after day.
As a starting point, set the power level to the general recommendations shown in the chart below. This is only
a starting point and the final level may be very different. Use the following procedure to find the power level for
your spa. Power Level Gallons Liters
1 - 3 < 200 < 760
4 200 to 300 760 to 1150
5 300 to 400 1150 to 1500
6 400 to 500 1500 to 1900
7 > 500 > 1900
Day 1: Set the power level according to the table and the
size of your spa.
Day 2: Measure the chlorine level. If it is higher than you
want lower the power level by 1. If it is lower than the level
you want raise the power level by 1.
Day 3: Repeat the Day 2 step until the chlorine remains
constant at the required level for a couple days.
NOTE: If the chlorine level is 0 PPM, 24 hours after
installation, the initial chlorine demand on the spa may be
above what ChlorMaker can produce in order to break away
from zero. In this case, manually add chlorine or shock (according to the product label) to assist in the initial
set-up.
If spa usage drops (vacation, winter, etc), it is important to lower the power level down several levels. If
usage significantly increases (return from vacation, etc), it is important to adjust the power level up accordingly.
Always retest and adjust the power level as needed.
WARNING: The ChlorMaker does not measure the sanitizer level and the power level needs to be properly
adjusted. If the power level is higher than needed and the spa is left alone for a number of days without
measuring the sanitizer, the levels may be too high and potentially damage spa components.
Boost Mode & Power Level Times
Activating Boost Mode will take ChlorMaker out of regular production mode or standby mode, and re-start the
production of chlorine according to the following table. To activate Boost Mode simply press the Boost Mode
Button. The Salt Light will begin flashing indicating that ChlorMaker is in Boost Mode. IMPORTANT: The
ChlorMaker can’t make chlorine faster. The Boost Mode keeps it on for a longer period of time. If the spa
chlorine has dropped to 0 PPM from heavy usage, chlorine may need to be added.
Power Level Normal Time
Boost Mode Time
1 00:02:00 00:12:00
2 00:07:30 00:45:00
3 00:15:00 01:30:00
4 00:30:00 03:00:00
5 00:45:00 04:30:00
Power Level Normal Time
Boost Mode Time
6 01:00:00 06:00:00
7 01:30:00 09:00:00
8 02:00:00 12:00:00
9 02:30:00 15:00:00
10 03:00:00 15:00:00
# ChlorMaker DO Included Parts
1 Cell with 10 foot cable
2 Power supply with 15 foot cable
3 ChlorMaker control box
4 Cable clips (2)
5 SS Screws: #6x1/2, #6x5/8 - (2 of each)
6 LaMotte test strips, salt and general spa
7 Owners manual
ChlorMaker Included Parts
When opening the package make sure all of the parts
are included. The serial number is on the control box
and on the last page of this manual.
Vacation Mode
When vacation mode is activated the ChlorMaker will decrease the on time to make less chlorine. Vacation
mode is automatically activated when no buttons are pressed for over a week. When activated, the lights will
flash RED and BLUE instead of GREEN every 10 seconds in standby mode. To exit vacation mode press any
button. The amount the time is decreased is:
No button pressed for 1 to 2 weeks: On time * 0.75
No button pressed for over 2 weeks: On time * 0.5
TROUBLESHOOTING
It is always a good idea to revisit the user manual to make sure installation or maintenance steps were not
overlooked before referring to the trouble shooting section.
Red and Green Light on at the Same Time
This is by far the most common problem and is an indication of too much salt. Even if you added the correct
amount and the salt level measures OK, the indication is dependant on water temperature and other minerals in
the water. It is always a good idea to start off low and add more salt after a couple days.
If you contact ControlOMatic with this problem you will be asked for the results of the following tests.
ŸEasy First Test
Take the electrode out of the water and turn it on (or press boost) so it starts making chlorine, if the lights still
turn green/red then there is a problem and it isn’t the water.
Second Test – The Bucket Test
Fill a 5 gallon bucket 2/3 with spa water and 1/3 with fresh water. Turn the unit off and leave in the bucket for 5
minutes to adjust to the temperature. Turn it on and see if the lights are blue when making chlorine, if they are
then remove 1/3 of the spa water and replace with fresh water. If not try again but fill the bucket ½ with spa
water and ½ with fresh water and try again.
Power Supply Test
There is a slight chance it is the power supply, if you have a voltmeter measure the DC voltage and it should be
around 5.5 Vdc. If it is higher, like 8 then that would cause the problem and the supply is bad.
Disconnect Electrode Test
The problem is either the circuit board or the electrode. Open the control box and disconnect one of the two
wires to the electrode so the electrode is now disconnected. Turn the unit on and when it starts making chlorine
if the problem goes away then it is the electrode, if the problem doesn’t go away it is the circuit.
If after performing these tests the led’s remain red and green then there may be a short in your saltwater system
so please contact us.
Plates Need Cleaning - White Calcium Deposits
ŸIf there is a white calcium buildup between the titanium plates, this will interfere with the chlorine production.
Disconnect the power before cleaning. Soak the cell in a mild acid (white vinegar or pH down) for 10 to 30
minutes and rinse in clean water. Repeat until the white deposits are gone
ŸThe electrode can also be removed from cell housing for cleaning using a suitable wrench if not hand tight.
RED Lights While Making Chlorine
ŸSalt level low: Add salt. Before adding salt it is a good idea to measure the salt level first
ŸCheck the cell for white calcium buildup and if present clean the plates
ŸPlates damaged: Unit needs to be replaced. The plates will last 7000 to 10000 hours of chlorine production
and the ChlorMaker may be at the end of its life. Note: The lower the power level you can operate on, the
longer the ChlorMaker will last
Consistently Low Chlorine
ŸPower level too low: Increase the power level
ŸLow salt level: Adjust the salt level as necessary. The ChlorMaker will make less chlorine with a lower salt
level
ŸPlates need cleaning: See above
ŸHigh bather load: Additional chlorine or shock may be needed
ŸVery high salt level: The RED and GREEN lights may be on indicating a very high salt level. When this
happens the ChlorMaker shuts down and will stop making chlorine to protect the power supply. Drain out
some of the water and refill with fresh water to lower the salt level. Cycle power or press the boost button to
start a production cycle to test again.
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