DURKOPP ADLER 745 - 34 - 2 Manuale utente

Manual, complete

745 - 34 - 2

Sewing unit for runstitching of piped flap

and welt pocket openings and pocket corners

Working methods: A, B, D, F

Operating Instructions

Installation Instructions

Service Instructions

Instructions for Programming DAC

Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld • Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld

Telefon + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25-00 • Telefax + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25 24 35 • www.duerkopp-adler.com

Ausgabe / Edition: 02/2005 Printed in Federal Republic of Germany Teile-Nr./Part.-No.: 0791 745181

745 - 34 - 2

Manual, complete

Contents

Operating Instructions

Installation Instructions

Service Instructions

Instructions for Programming DAC

Interconnection-diagram

9870 745154 B

9890 745002 B

Pneumatic circuit plan

9770 745005

Index Page:

Foreword and general safety instructions

Part 1: Operating Instructions 745-34-2

1. Product Description

1.1 Description of proper use........................................ 5

1.2 Briefdescription............................................. 5

1.3 Technicaldata .............................................. 7

1.4 Optional equipment ........................................... 8

2. Operation

2.1 Swingingthefoldingstationaside................................... 11

2.2 Pushing the covering hood back and removing the fabric sliding sheet ............ 12

2.3 Tilting the machine head up ...................................... 15

2.4 Needles and threads .......................................... 16

2.5 Threading the needle thread ...................................... 19

2.6 Winding the hook thread ........................................ 20

2.7 Remainingthreadmonitor....................................... 21

2.8 Changing the bobbins .......................................... 22

2.9 Threadtension.............................................. 24

2.10 Stackingcontrol ............................................. 25

2.11 Slantedpocketcorners......................................... 26

2.11.1 Swingingthecornerknifestationout/in .............................. 27

2.11.2 Setting the corner knives (Manual corner knife station) ...................... 28

2.12 Referenceposition-Startingthesewingcycle-Quickstop................... 30

2.13 Flapandpipingprojection ....................................... 31

2.14 Piping strip length ............................................ 32

2.15 Working methods............................................. 33

2.15.1 Working method A (Production of trousers) ............................. 34

2.15.2 Sewingwithflap............................................. 37

2.15.2.1 Sewing without light barrier ...................................... 37

2.15.2.2 Sewingwithlightbarrier ........................................ 39

2.15.3 Working method A (Production of jackets)

Piped pockets, manual positioning of piping strip, flaps and other additional parts ..... 40

2.15.4 Working method B

Piped pockets, automatic feed of the piping strip, without/with incision of the

piping ends ................................................ 46

2.15.5 Working method D

Breastweltpockets,automaticfeedandmatchingofthebreastwelt ............. 56

2.15.6 Working method F

Piped pockets, automatic feed of the piping strip,

incision of the piping ends, matching and feed of the flap .................... 62

2.15.7 Foldermonitoring ............................................ 66

2.16 Functions and Operation of the optional equipment ........................ 67

2.16.1 Automatic incision device for piping ends .............................. 67

2.16.2 Downholder, pocket bag and waistband clamp ........................... 70

2.16.3 Feeding devices for flaps, pocket bags etc. ............................. 71

Index Page:

2.16.4 Throw-overstacker ........................................... 72

2.16.5 Roll-offdevice .............................................. 74

2.16.6 Blow-outdevice ............................................. 75

2.16.7 Bundle clamp and roll-off device ................................... 76

2.16.8 Tapefeedandautomaticcutting.................................... 77

2.16.9 Endless zipper device .......................................... 80

2.16.10 Vacuumdevice.............................................. 82

2.16.11 WorkingmethodBwithsetofparts“Pocketbagonflap” .................... 83

2.16.12 Zipper feeders for method B ...................................... 86

2.16.13 Set of parts “Shaped guide Lining loop triangle” for 745-34-2 methods B and F ....... 87

2.16.14 Smoother for 745-34-2 A and B .................................... 88

3. Maintenance

3.1 Cleaning .................................................. 88

3.2 Weeklylubrication............................................ 91

1. Product description

1.1 Description of proper use

The 745-34-2 is a sewing unit which can properly be used for sewing

light to medium-weight material. Such material is, as a rule, material

made of textile fibres or leather. These materials are used in the

garment industry.

In general only dry material should be sewn on this machine. The

material must not contain any hard objects.

The seam is generally made with core thread, polyester fibre

or cotton threads.

The dimensions for needle and hook threads can be taken from the

table in chapter 2.4.

Before using any other threads it is necessary to estimate the

consequential dangers and to take the respective safety measures, if

required.

This sewing unit must only be installed and operated in dry and

well-kept rooms. If the sewing unit is used in other rooms, which are

not dry and well-kept, further measures to be agreed upon may

become necessary (see EN 60204-31 : 1999).

We, as a manufacturer of industrial sewing machines, assume that at

least semi-skilled operating personnel will be working on our products

so that all usual operations and, where applicable, their risks are

presumed to be known.

1.2 Brief description

The Dürkopp Adler 745-34-2 is a sewing unit for automatic

runstitching of piped, flap and welt pocket openings with rectangular or

slanted pocket corners.

The slanted pocket corners result from the seam offset of the two seam

rows. At the seam beginning and seam end it is possible to sew with

different slants.

Dependent on the working method different feeding devices, corner

knife stations and optional equipment are used.

Machine head

–Twin needle lockstitch version

–Needle bars can be switched separately or together

–Large vertical hooks

–Externally driven center knife, speed and circuit timing

programmable

–Thread trimming device for needle and hook threads

–Needle thread monitor

–Photoelectric remaining thread monitor for the hook threads

–Sewing drive as DC direct drive

Step motors for the material feed and the length adjustment of the

corner cutting device

The step motor technology results in short machine times and

guarantees an absolutely precise corner incision.

Thus, it contributes to a pocket quality as yet unequalled and combined

with high productivity.

New generation of “DAC III” controls (DÜRKOPP ADLER Control)

The graphic user guidance exclusively occurs via internationally

comprehensible symbols and text lines in the corresponding language.

The various symbols are combined in groups within the menu structure

of the sewing and test programs.

The ease of use makes short training times possible.

The user can combine 99 freely programmable pocket programs with

up to 20 seam patterns.

20 pocket sequences can be called up.

Every pocket sequence can be combined of up to 8 pocket programs in

any order whatever.

All slants suitable for practical application can be programmed by the

operator at the touch of a button.

The time-consuming adjustment of the corner knives and the tiresome

programming of seam offsets are not required.

The comprehensive test and monitoring system MULTITEST is

integrated in the DAC.

A microcomputer does the control tasks, monitors the sewing cycle and

signals operating faults and malfunctions on the display.

Optional equipment

By means of a flexible system of optional equipment the sewing unit

can be equipped optimally and economically corresponding to the

respective application.

See chapter 1.4 (Equipment of the 745-34-2).

Sewing equipment and folders

Data concerning the sewing equipment and folders for the various

applications can be taken from the Equipment Sheets of cl. 745-34.

Please direct your enquiries to the DÜRKOPP-ADLER sales offices.

1.3 Technical data

Machine head: Class 0246 992002

Needle system: 2134-85

Needle distance: 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 24, 26, 30 mm

Needle size: Nm 80 to Nm110

Threads: see table chapter 2.4

Stitch type: Twin needle lockstitch

Speed: min. 2000 rpm

max. 3000 rpm

Stitch length: min. 2.0 to 3.0 mm

Number of stitches/condensed

stitches: 1 - 10 stitches

Number of stitches/bartack

stitch: 0 - 5 stitches

Stitch length condensed

stitches / bartack: 0.5 - 3.0 mm

Pocket length: max. 220 mm

Seam offset: max. +/- 13 mm

Operating pressure: 6 bar

Air consumption: approx. 6 NL per work cycle

Rated voltage: 3 x 230 / 400 V / 50/60 Hz

Rated load:

Machine with

vacuum blower 0,8 KW

Machine without

vacuum blower 0,5 KW

Dimensions: 1540 x 925 x 1200 mm (L x W x H)

Working height: 790...1100 mm

(upper edge of table top)

Weight: 280 kg

Rated noise level: LC = 81 dB (A)

Workstation-specific emission value

according to DIN 45635-48-B-1

Stitch length: 2.5 mm

Seam length: 180 mm

Speed: 2750 rpm

Material: double fabric

240 g/m2

Measuring point according to DIN

4895 Part 1

X = 600 mm Y = 0 mm Z = 300 mm

1.4 Optional equipment

Order No. Optional equipment A B D F

0745 597514 Downholder- pocket bag clamp

Downholder for smoothing the fullness

caused by darts as well as a

clamping device for pocket bags

0745 597524 Waistband clamp

For smoothing the fullness.

Only possible in conjunction with 0745 597514

0745 597544 Endless zipper

Scissors with roll-off device for endless zippers

without slider

0745 597554 Throw-over stacker

To be positioned near the machine for stacking to the

side or to the back.

Furthermore, this throw-over stacker is equipped with

an easy-to-operate height adjustment and

a swivel device.

XXXX

0745 597604 Blow-out device

For blowing the finished workpieces out XX

0745 597614 Shaped guide “Lining loop triangle”

In case of inside pockets the lining loop triangle

is fed automatically.

0745 597674 Table extension (large)

The table extension required for the working method

with bundle clamp carriage

0745 597684 Table extension (small)

Tableextensiontobeusedforstackingtotheside XXXX

0745 597694 Bundle clamp

This includes the required large table extension XX

0745 597764 Right zipper feeder

In conjunction with feeding device 0745 517574

For cut-to-length zippers,

without slider, total width 24 mm, chain width

approx. 4 mm, in case of ready-made pocket chain

inside.

0745 597774 Left zipper feeder

In conjunction with feeding device 0745 517564

For cut-to-length zippers,

without slider, total width 24 mm, chain width

approx. 4 mm, in case of ready-made pocket chain

inside.

0745 597784 Right zipper feeder

In conjunction with feeding device 0745 517574

For cut-to-length zippers,

without slider, total width 24 mm, chain width

approx. 4 mm, in case of ready-made pocket chain

inside.

0745 597794 Left zipper feeder

In conjunction with feeding device 0745 517564

For cut-to-length zippers,

without slider, total width 24 mm, chain width

approx. 4 mm, in case of ready-made pockets chain

inside.

Order No. Optional equipment A B D F

0745 597824 Smoother for the 745-34-2 A/B

The smoother has the purpose to smooth the finished

workpiece held by the bundle clamp. Only in

combination with the table extension 0745 597674

and the roll-off device 0745 597954.

0745 597874 Set of parts “Pocket bag on flap” NA 10 and 12

for the simultaneous attaching of two pocket bag

halves and flap. Combination only in conjunction with

equipment E 3103 or E 3503 for NA 10

as well as E 3107 or E 3507 for NA 12.

0745 597884 Set of parts “Pocket bag / Piped pocket”

for the blowing of the pocket bag or the piping pocket

with equipment E 2604 or E 2606.

Use only in combination with the clamp K19.

0745 597934 Three-pack lasers

Add-on kit: for expanding the existing 5 laser marking

lamps to a maximum of 8 laser marking lamps.

(With the working method F, the standard equipment

includes 8 laser marking lamps).

XXXX

0745 597944 Electromotoric tape feed/Automatic cutting

Automatic feeding and cutting of a

reinforcement strip pulled from a roll. Start time and

cutting time can be programmed

corresponding to the pocket.

XXXX

0745 597954 Roll-off device

It is used to for transporting short pieces into the

stacker or to eject the pieces to be processed.

The speed and the working cycle of the roll-off device

can also be programmed.

XXXX

0745 597964 Vacuum (side channel compressor)

For an accurate positioning of the material when

no in-house vacuum unit is available.

The side channel compressor can be used with the

basic unit.

XXXX

0797 003031 Pneumatic connection package

Connection hose to the pneumatic supply line

with the appropriate couplings.

XXXX

0745 517564 Automatic feeding, left 180 - 220 mm

For the automatic feeding of piping strips and

additional parts.

0745 517574 Automatic feeding, right 180 - 220 mm

For the automatic feeding of piping strips and

additional parts.

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