Sparkfun Pro Micro Documento tecnico

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Pro Micro & Fio v3 Hookup Guide

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CONTRIBUTORS: JIMB0

Introduction

Welcome to the new frontier of Arduino-compatible boards, made possible

by the ATmega32U4. No longer does your Arduino need to be harnessed

by an FTDI Cable, or an ATmega8U2, or any chip who’s sole purpose is

acting as an intermediary between your Arduino and your computer.

The SparkFun Pro Micro is a really cool, little development board. It’s an

Arduino-compatible microcontroller, micro-sized, and it accomplishes with

one single chip what old Arduino Unos, Duemilanoves, and Diecimeillas

could never dream of: true USB functionality.

This tutorial also covers the Fio v3, which works a lot like the Pro Micro but

adds features like easy XBee interfacing and LiPo charging.

Page 1 of 2

Covered In This Tutorial

This tutorial aims to introduce you to both the hardware and firmware sides

of the Pro Micro (and Fio v3). We’ll also dedicate a few pages to helping

install the boards on Windows and Mac. Here’s a summary of what will be

covered:

• Hardware Overview: Pro Micro – An overview of the pinout and

hardware features of the Pro Micro.

• Hardware Overview: Fio v3 – An overview of the pinout and

hardware features of the Fio v3.

• Installing on Windows – How to install the drivers and Arduino addon

on Windows.

• Installing on Mac/Linux – How to install the drivers and Arduino

addon on Mac.

• Example 1: Blinkies – A simple “Hello, world” sketch specifically

suited to the Pro Micro and Fio v3.

• Example 2: HID Mouse and Keyboard – An introduction to the HID

USB capability of the Pro Micro. How to emulate USB keyboards and

mice!

• Troubleshooting and FAQ – Helpful troubleshooting tips and tricks for

getting the most out of the Pro Micro.

Suggested Reading

Before delving into this tutorial, here are some concepts you should be

familiar with. If you’re not, consider checking out the related tutorial first.

• What is Arduino? – An introduction to the Arduino platform and IDE.

• How to Install Arduino – A general installation guide for Arduino.

• Serial Communication – Serial is a great, easy-to-use communication

protocol.

Hardware Overview: Pro Micro

Page 2 of 2

Before we get into installing and using the Pro Micro, let’s quickly look at

the board – examine its inputs, outputs, and other hardware quirks.

The Pinout

All of the Pro Micro’s I/O and power pins are broken out to two, parallel

headers. Some pins are for power input or output, other pins are dedicated

I/O pins. Further, the I/O pins can have special abilities, like analog input.

Here’s a map of which pin is where, and what special hardware functions it

may have:

Delving a little further into which pins do what…

Power Pins

There are a variety of power and power-related nets broken out:

•RAW is the unregulated voltage input for the Pro Micro. If the board

is powered via USB, the voltage at this pin will be about 4.8V (USB’s

5V minus a schottkey diode drop). On the other hand, if the board is

powered externally, through this pin, the applied voltage can be up to

12V.

•VCC is the voltage supplied to the on-board ATmega32U4. This

voltage will depend on whether you’re using a 3.3V/8MHz Pro Micro

or a 5V/16MHz version, it’ll be either 3.3V or 5V respectively. This

voltage is regulated by the voltage applied to the RAW pin. If the

board is powered through the ‘RAW’ pin (or USB), this pin can be

used as an output to supply other devices.

•RST can be used to restart the Pro Micro. This pin is pulled high by

a 10k&Ohm; resistor on the board, and is active-low, so it must be

connected to ground to initiate a reset. The Pro Micro will remain “off”

until the reset line is pulled back to high.

•GND, of course, is the common, ground voltage (0V reference) for

the system.

Page 3 of 2

I/O Pins

The Pro Micro’s I/O pins – 18 in all – are multi-talented. Every pin can be

used as a digital input or output, for blinking LEDs or reading button

presses. These pins are referenced in the Arduino IDE via an integer value

between 0 and 21. (The A0-A3 pins can be referenced digitally using either

their analog or digital pin number).

Nine pins feature analog to digital converters (ADCs) and can be used as

analog inputs. These are useful for reading potentiometers or other analog

devices using the analogRead([pin]) function.

There are five pins with pulse width modulation (PWM) functionality, which

allows for a form of analog output using the

analogWrite([pin], [value]) function. These pins are indicated on-board

with a faint, white circle around them.

There are hardware UART (serial), I C, and SPI pins available as well.

These can be used to interface with digital devices like serial LCDs, XBees,

IMUs, and other serial sensors.

The Pro Micro has five external interrupts, which allow you to instantly

trigger a function when a pin goes either high or low (or both). If you attach

an interrupt to an interrupt-enabled pin, you’ll need to know the specific

interrupt that pin triggers: pin 3 maps to interrupt 0, pin 2 is interrupt 1, pin 0

is interrupt 2, pin 1 is interrupt 3, and pin 7 is interrupt 4.

On-Board LEDs

There are three LEDs on the Pro Micro. One red LED indicates whether

power is present.

The other two LEDs help indicate when data is transferring over USB. A

yellow LED represents USB data coming into (RX) the the Pro Micro, and a

green LED indicates USB data going out (TX).

3.3V or 5V? 8MHz or 16MHz?

Pro Micros come in two flavors, which vary by system voltage and

operating frequency. The standard 5V Pro Micro runs at 16MHz, and is

very comparable to an Arduino Leonardo, while the 3.3V version of the Pro

Micro runs at half the speed (to remain in the safe operating zone at the

lower voltage) – 8MHz.

The operating voltage of your Pro Micro determines the maximum allowable

voltage on any of the I/O pins. For example, if you have a 3.3V Pro Micro,

don’t interface it with something that outputs 5V.

Page 4 of 2

Don’t forget which version you have! We’ll need to differentiate between the

two when we get to uploading code in Arduino. If you’re not sure which

version you have, check the back corner of the board. One of two boxes

should be checked to indicate the operating voltage.

How to Power the Pro Micro

As the Pro Micro’s main feature is its innate USB functionality, the most

common way to power it is via USB. In this setup, a 5V Pro Micro will be

powered directly from the USB bus and a 3.3V Pro Micro will regulate the

5V supply coming in from USB down. The other end of the USB cable can

be connected to either a computer, USB hub, or a USB wall adapter, which

can (in most cases) provide more power.

Alternatively, if your Pro Micro is living out in the wild, out of reach of USB

cables, it can be powered through either the ‘RAW’ or ‘VCC’ pins. A supply

going into the ‘RAW’ pin will be regulated down to the correct operating

voltage (5V or 3.3V). To be safe, it shouldn’t be any higher than 12V, and it

should be at least 1V more than the Pro Micro’s operating voltage (e.g. >6V

for a 5V Pro Micro).

Pro Micro powered through the RAW pin by a set of four, series AA

batteries.

If you power the Pro Micro through the ‘VCC’ pin, keep in mind that this

signal is unregulated. Only use this if you have a clean, regulated 3.3V or

5V supply to connect to it.

Page 5 of 2

How, exactly, you power your project is up to you and the demands of your

project. If you’re making something battery powered, you may want to opt

for the 3.3V Pro Micro, which could be powered by a LiPo battery or a

couple alkalines.

Hardware Overview: Fio v3

On this page we’ll examine the hardware half of the Fio v3, looking at the

pinout, layout, and schematic of the board.

The Fio v3 is like an elongated Pro Micro. On one end, it’s shape and

pinouts are similar to it’s ATmega32U4 sibling. The other end of the Fio v3

is what makes it unique: a footprint for an XBee on the bottom, and a LiPo

charging circuit on the top.

The Pinout

All of the Fio v3’s pins are broken out to either side of the board. Some pins

are for power input or output, other pins are dedicated I/O pins. Further, the

I/O pins can have special abilities, like analog input, or serial input/output.

Here’s a map of which pin is where, and what special capabilities it may

have:

Power Pins

The pins labeled ‘3.3V’ break out the operating voltage source of the

ATmega32U4. As long as the board is powered through the white JST

connector or USB, this voltage is regulated down to 3.3V. These pins can

be used as outputs to supply 3.3V to other devices.

Page 6 of 2

The ‘RST’ pin can be used to restart the Fio. This pin is pulled high by a

10kΩresistor on the board, and is active-low, so it must be connected to

ground to initiate a reset. The Fio will remain off until the reset line is pulled

back to high.

I/O Pins

Many of the Fio’s I/O pins are multi-talented. Every pin can be used as a

digital input or output, for blinking LEDs or reading button presses. These

pins are referenced in the Arduino IDE via an integer value between 0 and

23. (The A0-A10 pins can be referenced digitally via either their analog pin

number or digital pin number).

Eleven pins feature analog to digital converters (ADCs) and can be used as

analog inputs. These are useful for reading potentiometers or other analog

devices using the analogRead([pin]) function.

There are six pins with pulse width modulation (PWM) functionality, which

allows for a form of analog output using the

analogWrite([pin], [value]) function. These pins are indicated on-board

with a faint white circle around the pin.

There are also hardware UART (serial), I C, and SPI pins available. These

can be used to interface with digital devices like serial LCDs, IMUs, and

other serial sensors.

The Fio v3 has five external interrupts, which allow you to instantly trigger a

function when a pin goes either high or low (or both). If you attach an

interrupt to an interrupt-enabled pin, you’ll need to know the specific

interrupt that pin triggers: pin 3 maps to interrupt 0, pin 2 is interrupt 1, pin 0

is interrupt 2, pin 1 is interrupt 3, and pin 7 is interrupt 4.

On-Board LEDs

There are a variety of LEDs on the Fio, the simplest of which is the red

power indicator. Two LEDs towards the bottom – labeled RX and TX – help

indicate when data is transferring to and from the Fio through USB. A blue

LED represents USB data coming into (‘RX’) the the Pro Micro, and a

yellow LED indicates USB data going out (‘TX’).

There are three LEDs tied to the XBee interface in particular: stat, RSSI,

and associate. The red LED labeled ‘ON’ is connected to the XBee’s pin 13

– DIO9 – which is, by default, set to indicate the XBee module’s ON/OFF

status. An ‘RSSI’ LED connects to XBee pin 6 (PWM0) which defaults to

indicate RSSI (received signal strength) – a brighter LED means a stronger

received signal. Lastly, the ‘ASO’ LED connects to XBee pin 15, which will

blink if the module is associated.

Page 7 of 2

Finally, there’s a yellow LED labeled ‘CHG’ which indicates if an attached

lithium polymer battery is charging. If a battery is not connected to the Fio,

the LED will be in an undefined state, and most likely be illuminated.

How to Power the Fio v3

The suggested power supply for the Fio v3 is any single-cell lithium

polymer (LiPo) battery. These batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7V,

which is perfect for supplying power to the 3.3V-operating Fio. LiPos are

awesome, because they’re rechargeable and still pack a lot of power into a

tiny space. Any of our single cell LiPos with JST terminators can connect

directly to the Fio’s onboard JST connector.

As an (immobile) alternative to batteries, the Fio can be powered directly

through the USB connector.

Using the LiPo Charger

The Fio v3 has a LiPo charge management circuit (based around the

MCP73831) built onto it, which handles the signal conditioning required to

safely charge a single-cell LiPo battery.

To use the charge circuit, you’ll obviously need a single-cell LiPo battery

plugged into the Fio. Then connect the board up via USB, so the charge

circuit has a primary voltage source to supply charge to the battery.

The ‘CHG’ LED will indicate the status of the battery charge. If it’s on, the

battery is still charging. Once the ‘CHG’ LED goes off, the battery is fully

charged.

The charge circuit is programmed to charge the battery at 500mA, so, to be

safe, the battery should be no smaller than 500mAH in capacity.

Connecting An XBee

The XBee-footprint connectors on the bottom of the Fio v3 are what make it

so unique. This product is designed to provide a simple interface between

Arduino and XBee, as such a few of the XBee pins come wired up to the

Page 8 of 2

ATmega32U4. Most significantly, the serial interfaces of both devices are

wired – the XBee’s ‘DOUT’ pin is connected to the ATmega32U4’s ‘RX’,

and ‘DIN’ is connected to ‘TX’.

XBee’s are controlled and configured over a serial interface. To learn more

about using XBee’s check out their datasheet and various tutorials for help

getting started with these awesomely simple wireless transceivers.

Installing: Windows

Getting the Pro Micro or Fio v3 set up on your computer and in your

Arduino environment can be difficult. Follow along on this page for a step-

by-step guide through the driver installation and Arduino-enabling process.

Windows Driver Installation

A note to Windows 8 users: Before you can install these drivers, you’ll

need to disable driver signature enforcement. Please check out our quick

Disabling Driver Signature Enforcement tutorial for help with that.

Step 1: Download the Driver

Before plugging your board in, get a head start by downloading the

drivers (check the GitHub Repository for the latest files). The same driver

file works for both the Pro Micro and the Fio v3.

Unzip that zip file, and don’t forget where you’ve left its contents. In that zip

file, you should find an INF file, which contains all the information Windows

needs to install the Pro Micro’s driver.

Step 2: Plug in the Pro Micro / Fio v3

When you initially plug the board in, an “Installing device driver software”

bubble notification should pop up in the lower-right corner of your taskbar.

After the green dot circles the grey box a number of times, you’ll probably

get a sad bubble like this:

Page 9 of 2

Never fear! Windows just doesn’t know where to find our driver.

Note: Some users have experienced issues when plugging the Pro Micro

into a USB 3.0 port. If you experience issues on USB 3.0 ports, try

switching to use a USB 2.0 port.

Step 3: Open the Device Manager

From here, the most straightforward way to install the driver is through the

Device Manager. To get to the Device Manager, click the Start button, then

open the Control Panel. In the Control Panel, click System and

Maintenance, and then open the Device Manager.

Alternatively, you can open the Run prompt (Windows key+R) and type

‘devmgmt.msc’ and click OK.

In the Device Manager, expand the ‘Other devices’ tree, where you should

find a ‘USB IO Board’ with a yellow warning sign over its icon. Right-click

the ‘USB IO Board’ and select Update Driver Software….

Page 10 of 2

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